Well stiffen my seats!

[Carmine]

I'm not satisfied with the seats in my car. While they are in excellent cosmetic shape, they do not support my weight. I am also accustomed to more "upmarket" C-Bodies, not the base package. This difference was reinforced (pardon the pun) when I removed the seat base with relative ease... I'm used to Imperial seat bases that feel like they weigh 200lbs.

My thought was to "weave" a piece of 1/4 to 1/2" thick PVC sheet plastic under the springs. (Rounding any sharp edges of course)

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...pe-panel/blkhdpe48x96x220/p-1561703293089.htm

Has anyone tried something similar?

 

[Samplingman]

Interesting idea, like a box spring support under a bed. Might be better with a few oak plank flooring, 2 inch top nail, they are 1/4 inch thick. I think they would keep their form better than PVC.

 

[Carmine]

Interesting idea, like a box spring support under a bed. Might be better with a few oak plank flooring, 2 inch top nail, they are 1/4 inch thick. I think they would keep their form better than PVC.

I concur on holding their form, but I worry about them cracking, as well as having enough flex for me to install without removing the seat cover.

 

[413]

Yes I’ve done this, but it will be very stiff with plastic in there. You can use some heavy vinyl material also. Anything will help stiffen it up, experiment with different materials.
It helps to have a few helpers lifting the springs while the new material is shoved in there.

 

[polara71]

So you have a 70 Newport?

 

[HWYCRZR]

If you look at some classic furniture they use Spring tying strings, or spring wire to tie the spring system together for more support. If look at the burlap with the woven spring wire on the bottom of the seat, that is also supposed help distribute the weight across all the springs but still allow a lot of movement.
But obviously they are not doing their job any longer.


Something along these lines. He is showing coil springs, but can be applied to your springs. Furniture webbing woven in along with hog rings to secure them to springs would also work.

 

[CBODY67]

For some reason, those springs look kind of small gauge? Adding more stress onto them might not last, but spreading it out might help. Best option might be to take the seats to a trim shop and see what their thoughts might be, even if the orig covers have to be removed for the work.

I understand trying to Band-Aid fix things as they are, but it might not yield the best results.

Just some respectful thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[73Coupe]

Suggest tying the zig-zag springs together with 16 ga. kraft-covered wire, fastened to the zigzags with 3-prong spring clips. One or two locations across the seat bottom. Run to the edge and bend and fasten to the perimeter/edge wire.

link to page 22 with above items: Untitled Document

American Trim & Upholstery Supply - foam cushions & upholstery supplies

 

[3C's & a D?]

Usually the seat cover is removed, however I'm sure it could be done with it in place. I did it to my first C body at the suggestion of an experienced upholsterer. Get four fairly sturdy straight rods, thicker than the spring's, roughly four inches shorter than the width of the seat. Install front to back, where the spring's bend every few inches, and attach with wide shipping style metal band's. The tool used to attach those is kind of bulky, so may be difficult with cover in place. I'm told taxis and police cars came equipped that way, not sure. Makes that sink into, comfy for a half hour seat, a firmer, long distance winner!

 

[1970cat]

i would try upholstery webbing. if woven between the springs and fastened tight at the edges, it should tighten things up . it's used for furniture to provide support over the springs , but still has a slight amount of flex. i think it could be easily woven through without disturbing anything.

 

[tallhair]

Some great ideas posted

 

[Carmine]

Some great ideas posted

I agree! Thanks to all that posted.

In the interests of time (as I'm trying to have this car read for a Memorial Day parade) I went with a variant of my original idea. HD wanted $33 for a 2x4 sheet of PVC, or $7 for the same size 1/4" Masonite board. I figured for that price and relatively little labor, it was worth a shot.

I cut the sheet into two pieces that were 16x24" and inserted them with relative ease. Then I wire-tied each in four places... and forgot to take a picture, so you'll have to go by what I captured sticking the camera under the seat.

The good: No more collapsing into the seat. Much better than before. Easily reversed with no harm. Not visible from above. $even dollar$.

The bad: You can kind of tell you're sitting on a board. They aren't uncomfortable, but it's more like a very good-quality folding chair. The webbing might be the best idea, but that will have to wait until I develop more motivation and find the time.

I've come to realize this might be the very first base-model seat C body I've owned. I'm used to much better quality seats... I guess this was another way they moved you into a NY'er, 300, Fury III, etc.

 

[Carmine]

So you have a 70 Newport?

You're close.

 

[polara71]

You're close.

That's what this is about, isn't it?

 

[Carmine]

That's what this is about, isn't it?

Have another clue.

 

[polara71]

Is that the NY pattern?

 

[Carmine]

Is that the NY pattern?

You just got further away. Listen to the radio to see where you went wrong.

 

[Alchemi]

Is there a write up on the differences in the seats vs trim levels anywhere? had a bit of a search but couldn't find anything specific

 

[polara71]

I'm out. My brain says 70 Newport just from the pattern, maybe 69 but my Dodge head isn't sure.

 

[Carmine]

I'm out. My brain says 70 Newport just from the pattern, maybe 69 but my Dodge head isn't sure.

I cannot award you the winner's trophy just because you're culturally disadvantaged or get close. Even if such expectations reveal my bias and privilege.