Were does everyone go to for automatic bands rebuild/reline? What material to use and stay away from?

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OK I am now getting ready to rebuild the 727 in our 65 wagon. Still has the drain able torque converter. Fluid is gray/green/ not red. Does not go in reverse and "shifts funny" in drive. I an setting up for the worst. Kits I can find but what friction material do I look for on the bands? clutches? Getting close to being back on the road.
 
Best source is Cope Racing Transmissions. John Cope at CRT is one of the most knowledgeable people alive for Mopar transmissions. Here is his website https://www.coperacingtrans.com/. It says "racing transmissions" but he has kits for stock rebuilds and he has his bands relined with the correct materials. And if you email him with questions he will respond or better yet if you call the shop you can talk with him. He also has a youtube channel where he covers everything about 727's.
 
In general, there are "consumer"-level kits, which many trans shops can use (for a bone-stock rebuild). Better "performance" shops can use better frictions and such, and there are the "race" shops that cater to mostly racers, BUT can also know which brands of frictions work best for them.

NOW, ALSO consider that many transmission builders have their OWN "secret mix" of things which THEY have found to work best for their customers. NOTHING generic Not unlike an engine builder that focuses on piston rings rather than main bearings, for example. Best rings as that means more power, harder to change, but main bearings are easier to change, so they can be changed more often, as a result. Just as one builder might like one brand of bands yet another brand of frictions. AND the use of the band-apply lever, too.

Also in the "secret mix", there can be changes to the valve body separator plate, leaving out the accumulator piston, and sending out the valve body for "wear" repairs of the shuttle valves and their bores.

I know that many like particular TF books, which is good, but I would also recommend the Mopar Perf Race Manual which includes the sections on TorqueFlite modifications. MP used to sell their own shift kits for TFs too!!

Transmissions is ONE item where IF you want something different than OEM stock, you need to know how to get there. To me, the Direct Connection Race Manual can be an OEM-level source for that. If you might run across on of the OLD Direct Connection Race Manuals (all 1200 pages of it), GET ONE!!!! The newer versions are more segmented and type-set printed, but the old ones, which look like copied typewritten pages with somewhat crude drawings, are probably the best ones, to me.

Go ahead and watch the many YT videos, talk to some good builders, THEN make your decisions of what to get and where.

As to "kits", some are available from Rock Auto.

Used to be that the old B&M Transmission kits were the premier kits back in the 1980s and prior. Instructions to build the trans for "stock", "towing", or "performance". Back when they were the premier aftermarket transmission (including drag racing) supplier.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
Sounds like maybe your cooling tank in your radiator is leaking antifreeze into your tranny.
No leaks, no antifreeze smell, no oil/water mix. PO even put in a new aluminum radiator (which I am replacing with a original brass one).
 
No leaks, no antifreeze smell, no oil/water mix. PO even put in a new aluminum radiator (which I am replacing with a original brass one).
Rember that the Fluid available in 65 is no longer available
get bands and clutches that go together with the fluid you are going to use
ATF+4 is among the most cost effective you can get
If you want DEX III get one that meets the Allison spec
everything else is unregulated as GM no longer supports
Absolute Best is CITGO QUATROSYN
IS this CABLE SHIFT
COPE is good
orIMHO order a TRANSGO reprogramming kit and do your valve body YOu get their tech support number be sure to mention CABLE SHIFT
Dual pumps (rear pump) takes a different filter brass screen usually
There are wider bushing available
the input shaft may be the small one
I would replace the pump and shaft and converter to the latest shaft
BVVVC ordering converter if small shaft
Measure Twice cut once I've had59 and 65 Imperials and was a Chrysler Service Manager/ Parts Manager. Floor sweeper back in the day
 
OK I am now getting ready to rebuild the 727 in our 65 wagon. Still has the drain able torque converter. Fluid is gray/green/ not red. Does not go in reverse and "shifts funny" in drive. I an setting up for the worst. Kits I can find but what friction material do I look for on the bands? clutches? Getting close to being back on the road.
I used Alabama Bands for my 904 rebuild. I sent both of mine in for relining and return. Very low cost and seem to work just fine. Professional Transmission Bands | Alabama Bands | United States
 
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