Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Its OK. Te absolvum.
Fitment & performance Trial on MOP753A Radiator on 1966 Chrysler Newport
- Thread starter Gerald Morris
- Start date
I am just joining this thread, and am wondering if I could help out the vendor. I see you are located in Hatfield, PA. I happen to be about 45 minutes from there, and am looking for a cooling solution for my built motor that I anticipate achieving ~500 hp. I have a 1965 Polara with the 22'' radiator. Maybe we can work something out for you to use it for fitment etc.
I believe we already have a solution for that radiator if you are going to run a full kit. What we had hoped to do is make a correct one that you could run the OEM fan shroud with. At 500hp, you start to get to a point where the electric fan kit can do a better job than the mechanical fan. So in your case, we can probably get you set up. I'd just need to borrow that radiator for a day or two to confirm. Shoot me a PM if that's a possibility.
As far as fitting the 22" unit in your car, that's not an issue and the trans lines should match up pretty close. Our radiator is deeper than yours so the trans lines have to get pushed back a bit. That might require putting an extra 's' bend to create some space.
Going to a 26" radiator on a car that never had one, could be done an unlimited amount of ways. Each one would change the position of the trans line inlet. So I couldn't guarantee your trans lines will match up. Personally, if you went the 26" route, I'd run a separate trans cooler and then you won't have to worry about the trans lines placement.
65Fury440
Senior Member
This topic is pretty old. In re-reading, I don't see anything mentioned about a taller core. I'm also not sure 65polara ever supplied us with that sample. Members have been using both our 22" and 26" rads for the C-body. We just haven't figured out the 22" oem shroud fitment yet.
65Fury440
Senior Member
About half way through post #1 Gerald mentions the core is about 2 1/2 " shorter than original, and on post #3 makes a suggestion that sounds pretty easy to incorporate. My 65 big block car came from the factory with a 22" radiator, and now has a warmed over engine. The extra capacity sure wouldn't hurt in the Florida heat.
My radiator now is from another company and has 2- 1" rows. The temps creep up when it is hot out.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You might try their MOP751A for a full 18" height. That should bolt up on a 65 C body which came w a 22" radiator to start with. The only difference between that one and what I had in mine is where the upper hose is situated. On my old one, its all thge way over to the right, while on the 751A, like MANY old Mopar radiators ofd the mid 60s, its about in the middle. I COULD run that with little trouble, and might try it if I have money to throw around again.
Cold Case did me a pretty good deal for my being a tester. I'd HAPPILY test the 751A for them, and compare notes. The 753A has been a true boon in this evil Arizona heat these past 2 summers. Those 1.25" tubes shed a great deal of engine heat. I can feel it when I kick on my pusher fan occasionally, during more torrid conditions. That pusher proved cheaper and less time/labor consuming that devising a shroud for the 18" 6 blade Derale clutch fan I bought to go w the radiator. You may emulate my example and be out no more than $40 on the pusher.
In time, I would like to try a more completely electric cooling fan setup, w shroud for such, and drop the engine fan altogether. BUT, I need a larger alternator than the 60A one I currently run to do so. Similarly, an electric water pump suggests further engine power gained in one place, but again, only by increased ampacity of the alternator and the steady load on it. Since greater torque must be applied for greater current demand, the efficiency of a high current alternator becomes the dominant constraint in such a cooling system modernization. It MAY prove feasible though, if you have the $$$ to experiment with.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Thanks Gerald for the explanation, the MOP751K (without trans cooler) sounds like it will be what I'm going to pursue.
My car has an 8 blade clutch fan and shroud with the Hayden 2797 I swap on and off for and an electric 16" Spal puller fan. Surprisingly, there is no difference I can see in idle cooling airflow. The issue my car has is coming from a fast cruise to a stoplight. It will be at 180 right on the stat until the point it has to stop and idle. Then the temp creeps up to 190 or so. Then you hit another stop light, now its up to 200 or over. Then on a steady light throttle run of say about 4-5 miles, the temp comes down to 190.
Hopefully the extra 25% capacity of the MOP751K will do the trick.
@Ccas Do you have any suggestions before I order? I can call your guys, just like to keep the board informed.
Thanks again Gerald for such an in-depth review.
My car has an 8 blade clutch fan and shroud with the Hayden 2797 I swap on and off for and an electric 16" Spal puller fan. Surprisingly, there is no difference I can see in idle cooling airflow. The issue my car has is coming from a fast cruise to a stoplight. It will be at 180 right on the stat until the point it has to stop and idle. Then the temp creeps up to 190 or so. Then you hit another stop light, now its up to 200 or over. Then on a steady light throttle run of say about 4-5 miles, the temp comes down to 190.
Hopefully the extra 25% capacity of the MOP751K will do the trick.
@Ccas Do you have any suggestions before I order? I can call your guys, just like to keep the board informed.
Thanks again Gerald for such an in-depth review.
If you are ok with the inlet being in a different position, I think that's the way to go. I really think all you need is that extra volume. We'll all be anxious to hear the results.
I'm sending you a quick PM with ordering details.
Sir Dodge alot
Active Member
Excellent write up By Gerald Morris, this is the information that I have been looking for.
The radiator in my 64' Dodge custom 880(Chryslers forward look design car) has started leaking from every orifice possible.
Texas summer's are just brutal on the radiator, creeping up on 205* in Dallas traffic.
(Few days ago the outside temp hit 110F*)
I have perused the Cold case website but seems like there is no update on a direct drop in install radiator, only choice to go with is a MOP753A, I would have gone with the MOP751A but I have A/C, so if I attempted to install the MOP751A the centrally located upper hose would bump into the A/C compressor low/high side Schrader valve.
See below for the photo and reference off of the MOP751A, and see why this would not work.
Hoping Cold case will accommodate an 18 inch tall & 22 inch wide core with the correct offset upper hose inlet as Gerald Morris has mentioned.
The radiator in my 64' Dodge custom 880(Chryslers forward look design car) has started leaking from every orifice possible.
Texas summer's are just brutal on the radiator, creeping up on 205* in Dallas traffic.
(Few days ago the outside temp hit 110F*)
I have perused the Cold case website but seems like there is no update on a direct drop in install radiator, only choice to go with is a MOP753A, I would have gone with the MOP751A but I have A/C, so if I attempted to install the MOP751A the centrally located upper hose would bump into the A/C compressor low/high side Schrader valve.
See below for the photo and reference off of the MOP751A, and see why this would not work.
Hoping Cold case will accommodate an 18 inch tall & 22 inch wide core with the correct offset upper hose inlet as Gerald Morris has mentioned.
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Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Hail and Well Met, Sir Dodgealot! Huzzah!
Alas, Cold Case won't help you or me for a fewmet in this, BUT, Good Tidings yet come:
22″ Mopar BIG BLOCK HD Aluminum Radiator
Frank Son of Wat actually makes HIS aluminum radiators in ye Chicago! He makes a BETTER radiator than Cold Case, which I ran with perfect satisfaction until that evil **** destroyed it in her attempt at insurance fraud. The Cold Case Mop753A cooled well enough until it dissolved after 16 months. I was informed this occurs more readily with chinese aluminum, which is poorly refined and thus more susceptible to electrolysis.
Sir Dodge alot
Active Member
I was concerned on the aspect of electrolysis. Seems like my fears have come to light if the radiator dissolved in 16 months.
Apologies on the insurance fraud you went through, never wish that upon anyone.
Also appreciate the link to the ECP (Engineered cooling products)
Hope business in Chicago is still going strong, heard there's quite a stir with looters breaking windows of shops and things getting stolen.
Side note:
Honestly business around even in Texas feels non-existent, First radiator shop I went to wouldn't even attempt at a re-core of the original radiator, promptly was told the radiator is 'unsavable' I suspect he didn't want to mess with it.
Question: is the radiator in the ECP website the one you are using or have used before?
Much thanks.
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Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Yes, the radiator I linked to from ECP is the excellent one I used. MUCH BETTER PRODUCT than that Cold Case as it turned out. Hands full just now. More later....
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