factory312
New Member
Agreed that the overspray won't make me pass it up
What is a fair price? 1967 Monaco 500
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LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
They would be body color on a '67.
My '67 Newport "23" has the white bucket seat interior with center "buddy seat". Seats and door panels , and headliner are pearl white. Carpets, instrument panel pad, headliner moldings, and rear package tray are black.
Car looks good, generally, but DO check it over well. Carefully look under the trunk mat, as it is molded rubber and probably quite brittle.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Car looks good, generally, but DO check it over well. Carefully look under the trunk mat, as it is molded rubber and probably quite brittle.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
fury fan
Senior Member
I'm generally pretty tolerant of flaws and 'incorrect' restoration on a car I might buy -- but I'd run hard and fast from this one.
Maybe I'd feel differently if I saw it in person, but what I see in these pictures is a perfumed pig.
It has so many signs of shoddy workmanship that I think the disappointments/bad surprises in this car would never end.
Unless there's a truly rust-free virgin body here, but I wouldn't bet that long-shot.
VT is wrong grain (not a big deal) - but what is hiding underneath? The top corner of the windshield trim is not installed correctly, which makes me question the workmanship.
The doorpanels don't look factory, those are trim shop cut-and-sew-some-generic-pattern things. Attached with screws most likely - one is circled. They didn't even get the bezel for the remote mirror on there, nor the one at the door lock pin.
As someone mentioned - the short armrest, and all the white on the dash.
I don't recall ever seeing a white console - so likely it was spray-painted with the dash. (that wouldn't be a big deal if it was the only oddity)
The seat stitching on the top shoulder-corner of the passenger seat looks funny, how all the seams meet - I suspect these seats have generic trim-shop-sewn covers that tried to emulate the originals.
Underhood is more of a mess than just the overspray on some hoses - all the wiring is painted.
Hood bumper is missing (no big deal) but the other one is painted over.
Top skin of hood seems no longer attached at the deadening-goo - I don't know if that's typical at this age.
But the insulation pad clips, and some of the insulation, were painted right over.
There's a cluster of upward-dimples on the fenderwell - I've never seen that before. ???
And in spite of all of that, there's not even any shine to the fenderwells or anything - so why do it???. So... I suspect a color change on this car, and a half-assed coverup.
Has a disc-drum master cylinder, does the car have discs brakes? Regardless, it's wearing a drumbrake booster, and that's a no-no if it has discs.
Fuel line routing is horrible.
What other safety/drivability shortcuts were taken?
Maybe I'd feel differently if I saw it in person, but what I see in these pictures is a perfumed pig.
It has so many signs of shoddy workmanship that I think the disappointments/bad surprises in this car would never end.
Unless there's a truly rust-free virgin body here, but I wouldn't bet that long-shot.
VT is wrong grain (not a big deal) - but what is hiding underneath? The top corner of the windshield trim is not installed correctly, which makes me question the workmanship.
The doorpanels don't look factory, those are trim shop cut-and-sew-some-generic-pattern things. Attached with screws most likely - one is circled. They didn't even get the bezel for the remote mirror on there, nor the one at the door lock pin.
As someone mentioned - the short armrest, and all the white on the dash.
I don't recall ever seeing a white console - so likely it was spray-painted with the dash. (that wouldn't be a big deal if it was the only oddity)
The seat stitching on the top shoulder-corner of the passenger seat looks funny, how all the seams meet - I suspect these seats have generic trim-shop-sewn covers that tried to emulate the originals.
Underhood is more of a mess than just the overspray on some hoses - all the wiring is painted.
Hood bumper is missing (no big deal) but the other one is painted over.
Top skin of hood seems no longer attached at the deadening-goo - I don't know if that's typical at this age.
But the insulation pad clips, and some of the insulation, were painted right over.
There's a cluster of upward-dimples on the fenderwell - I've never seen that before. ???
And in spite of all of that, there's not even any shine to the fenderwells or anything - so why do it???. So... I suspect a color change on this car, and a half-assed coverup.
Has a disc-drum master cylinder, does the car have discs brakes? Regardless, it's wearing a drumbrake booster, and that's a no-no if it has discs.
Fuel line routing is horrible.
What other safety/drivability shortcuts were taken?
mopar preferred
Active Member
And it looks like someone installed JC Whitney side marker lights, but the only one left is on the right front. What happened to the others?
Right front wheel trim is wonky, and door gaps look odd.
At first glance, the car was very appealing, but upon closer look, it is scary.
And if it is in park, shouldn't the shifter button be popped up?
I hope the air cleaner was just removed for the photo.
Right front wheel trim is wonky, and door gaps look odd.
At first glance, the car was very appealing, but upon closer look, it is scary.
And if it is in park, shouldn't the shifter button be popped up?
I hope the air cleaner was just removed for the photo.
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fury fan
Senior Member
Good eye on the door gaps, they are definitely too tight at the front.
Good eye on the shifter button, too.
Good eye on the shifter button, too.
57fury440
Well-Known Member
I think that many of the things done on this car were performed without worrying about originality. The paint job looks like a typical body shop job that over sprays everything including under the hood, wheel wells, etc. The under hood can be made to look nice with some work and many things can be corrected with a little work as well. It depends on what you are looking for. This can be a nice driver, but I would want to do a thorough inspection. In the end it comes down to the price and to me it would have to be a good deal.
NOT to sound flakey, but after seeing what others have indicated, I can see about $6K of "corrections" that would need to be made for the car to be the gem it needs to be. Although the current seller might not be aware of all of them, possibly. And somebody did a lot of things that a little searching in the restoration/repro vendors could have prevented, IF they might have cared.
But as a possibly nice driver that looks good at a distance, it might do well, but NOT "top dollar" well.
FWIW,
CBODY67
But as a possibly nice driver that looks good at a distance, it might do well, but NOT "top dollar" well.
FWIW,
CBODY67
fury fan
Senior Member
I was a bit harsh on the car earlier, I think because the quality of work suggested people who did not take pride in their work.
I worked in 2 body shops when I was younger and that underhood would never have been permitted in either one, regardless of what the customer was paying for - the shop's name is on the work, a cheap price justification always gets forgotten.
Make sure to fix whatever drivability/safety issues it might have, put centercaps on it, and enjoy driving a triple-white car.
Just make sure not to overpay, as one day you'll be on the receiving end of the state of the car.
I worked in 2 body shops when I was younger and that underhood would never have been permitted in either one, regardless of what the customer was paying for - the shop's name is on the work, a cheap price justification always gets forgotten.
Make sure to fix whatever drivability/safety issues it might have, put centercaps on it, and enjoy driving a triple-white car.
Just make sure not to overpay, as one day you'll be on the receiving end of the state of the car.
mopar preferred
Active Member
Looks like the radio antenna is missing too. Maybe the car took a hit to the right front and the fender was replaced with a junkyard one that had the cheapo side marker light on it, and it was never removed.
If the body is not full of bondo, and the mechanicals are good, it could be a fun driver. Just pay accordingly.
If the body is not full of bondo, and the mechanicals are good, it could be a fun driver. Just pay accordingly.
I don't see a battery hold-down bracket, nor a windshield washer reservoir. It does look like a rad overflow reservoir is on the far side of the battery, I don't have one so I don't know if that's where it should be. None of the wiring that should run (and be clipped down) on the wheel cowls are there.
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Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Good eye. I also saw the dimples on the fender well, but missed the other flaws you discovered. Yeah. It's gonna take a lot of time and money to straighten out this car.
I would love to see a photo of the fender tag. . .
Talking about price -
A pair of speakers came up for sale near me, I googl'd around for a review, stumbled across a marketplace site called "shoppok.com". Seems similar to the kijiji.ca we have in Canada. For the heck of it, I tried searching for a few things there, then I tried dodge monaco, and this came up:
www.shoppok.com
$12.5k. A few other '65 shown there for 17k - 24k. No '66 or '68 listed, one '67 was listed 4 years ago.
A pair of speakers came up for sale near me, I googl'd around for a review, stumbled across a marketplace site called "shoppok.com". Seems similar to the kijiji.ca we have in Canada. For the heck of it, I tried searching for a few things there, then I tried dodge monaco, and this came up:
1965 Dodge Monaco - $12,500 (Shippensburg)
1965 Dodge Monaco For Sale383, 4 bbl.727 AutomaticDual Exhaust85k Original Miles Garage KeptOne Re-Paint- Not perfect but driver quality. Pearl White with Blue TintBumpers need re-chromed-Professional Rebuilt Carter AFB Carb Bowen Carburetor -New fuel lines Inline Tubes, new fuel tank Van`s...
$12.5k. A few other '65 shown there for 17k - 24k. No '66 or '68 listed, one '67 was listed 4 years ago.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
That car has been posted elsewhere on the site in the past year or so.
Andrew Ryan
Member
Andrew Ryan
Member
It sounds like you're trying to fair and not rob the guy. Work backwards. In great shape that may be a $20k car on the right day with all green lights and a tail wind. A car that's been sitting may look like it's a driver but be prepared for fuel tank, fuel lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders. Brake lines, tires and soft suspension parts that have rotted. All that just to make it a safe driver so you have to plan on the cost of possible repairs before you over invest in a car. I saw the number "no more than $10k" in the replies and I'd agree with that but even as low as $5k if you spot additional expensive items which many people have mentioned as potential "gotchas". Good luck. I love that car and the white on white is great. BTW the motor is either a 383 or 440. With the level of options it has a 440 wouldn't be surprising.
I've sat back and watched what the speculation on the numbers would be on this one...
IMHO, given that the car is really an unknown without close inspection, I think we're looking at a car that's $4K tops.... and that is only if the underside looks good. There's a lot of lipstick on that pig.
The seller has a price in mind... they all do... and hitting it might be hard. My theory on sales is you can always go up, but you can't go down once you make an offer.
You really need to figure what the car is worth to you. Restoring this car to a higher level could be good if it's rust free... But it's still going to be pricey. I could see an easy $12k going for bodywork and paint alone. The vinyl top looks like it's been painted, so figure $1k to get that right. Interior actually looks good, but you're probably looking at $500 for a new carpet and misc. details. Tires are another $500 and let's just say another $1000 in mechanical. So, you could easily end up with $20k (including purchase price) if you want go that route. That's a conservative price with you doing some work.
Then there's the "leave it alone and just drive it" level... Again, it's what it's worth to you. Figuring tires and a few other things, you might spend $1k to $2k getting it road worthy... Maybe less if you get a little luck. Point being there's more cost than just buying the car...
But, getting back to what it's worth to you... Does the car really appeal to you? That's always worth a little more in the purchase price. If it doesn't, either step away or go low on the offer.
IMHO, given that the car is really an unknown without close inspection, I think we're looking at a car that's $4K tops.... and that is only if the underside looks good. There's a lot of lipstick on that pig.
The seller has a price in mind... they all do... and hitting it might be hard. My theory on sales is you can always go up, but you can't go down once you make an offer.
You really need to figure what the car is worth to you. Restoring this car to a higher level could be good if it's rust free... But it's still going to be pricey. I could see an easy $12k going for bodywork and paint alone. The vinyl top looks like it's been painted, so figure $1k to get that right. Interior actually looks good, but you're probably looking at $500 for a new carpet and misc. details. Tires are another $500 and let's just say another $1000 in mechanical. So, you could easily end up with $20k (including purchase price) if you want go that route. That's a conservative price with you doing some work.
Then there's the "leave it alone and just drive it" level... Again, it's what it's worth to you. Figuring tires and a few other things, you might spend $1k to $2k getting it road worthy... Maybe less if you get a little luck. Point being there's more cost than just buying the car...
But, getting back to what it's worth to you... Does the car really appeal to you? That's always worth a little more in the purchase price. If it doesn't, either step away or go low on the offer.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Spot on.
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
I just bought a Canadian 67 Monaco 500
L code 440 car.
In perfect show car condition they fetch 20k. My insurance has an agreed upon replacement value of 32,000.
I paid nowhere near that.
The car in question get the VIN tag and fender tag to verify the engine and which assembly plant she was born.
Both the H code 383hp and L code 440 Magnum cars are rare beasts and worth buying.
But as mentioned, I see a lot of wrongs that can cost money.
If you want to drive it as is, 5-6 grand all day.
FYI The Canadian built Monaco 500 came with a Sport Fury interior whereas the US version had its own interior with bamboo appointments.
Hope this helps
L code 440 car.
In perfect show car condition they fetch 20k. My insurance has an agreed upon replacement value of 32,000.
I paid nowhere near that.
The car in question get the VIN tag and fender tag to verify the engine and which assembly plant she was born.
Both the H code 383hp and L code 440 Magnum cars are rare beasts and worth buying.
But as mentioned, I see a lot of wrongs that can cost money.
If you want to drive it as is, 5-6 grand all day.
FYI The Canadian built Monaco 500 came with a Sport Fury interior whereas the US version had its own interior with bamboo appointments.
Hope this helps
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I could not buy this car for more than $5000 as for me I'd need to put another $15000 (and that is with me doing all the work) into it just to get it to my standard and I'm not sure the finished product would be worth it.
Alan
Alan
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