Where can I get front floor pans for a 1966 Fury?

[JYBE]

Just joined this group because I just bought a barn find '66 Fury II with 17426 miles on it.
Brought it in for a safety inspection and found it needs front floor pans.
Is there a supplier for these?

 

[ayilar]

Welcome aboard! Lots of members in Ontario. @cbarge

 

[MoPar~Man]

Might want to edit the subject line.

 

[Toolmanmike]

Just joined this group because I just bought a barn find '66 Fury II with 17426 miles on it.
Brought it in for a safety inspection and found it needs front floor pans.
Is there a supplier for these?

View attachment 697154

What are the numbers in the title?

 

[73Coupe]

An IP address?

 

[Toolmanmike]

An IP address?

Could be someones but not the one used here.

 

[JYBE]

Might want to edit the subject line.

What do you mean?

 

[JYBE]

What are the numbers in the title?

Why do you need that?

 

[MoPar~Man]

Why do you need that?

You titled this thread with an IP address, instead of something more informative / useful like:

-> Where can I get front floor pans for a 1966 Fury?

 

[JYBE]

You titled this thread with an IP address, instead of something more informative / useful like:

-> Where can I get front floor pans for a 1966 Fury?

I don't know how that happened I did have 'Where can I get front floor pans for a 1966 Fury?'

 

[MoPar~Man]

Call National Moparts in Barrie Ontario. See if they've got any good floor pans. Your aftermarket choices for new panels are limited (or perhaps zero). Don't ask about C2C.

 

[Big_John]

Don't ask about C2C.

^This^

 

[CBODY67]

How long has it been since the thread where a poster posted pictures of his Classic 2 Current panels (for a 65-66 Plymouth Fury?), which some claimed were better than expected, but still not an exact OEM-type item?

The question would be "How bad are the current floorpans?" If they can be patched with some sheets of metal or they need the full footwell area on one side or both?

Would the C2C items look better if they had some stiffening beads in them?

Regards,
CBODY67

 

[MoPar~Man]

See also:

C2C Floor pan

I took a chance. I figure the carpet will cover it if looked like crap. It’s pretty thick and sturdy. Not sure how it will fit.

www.forcbodiesonly.com

 

[Big_John]

Would the C2C items look better if they had some stiffening beads in them?

It isn't just that. They don't fit. It's flat sheet metal that was formed using a brake and bead roller. The video that @MoPar~Man posted has a statement that I was going to use. Basically if you have the skills to make it fit, you can just make it yourself.

The part that really makes me want to scream is they will use a restored car for advertisement that never used any C2C parts.

 

[CBODY67]

I know that in our modern world, we want things which are "drop in", fit, and work flawlessly wiith a minimum of effort. BTAIM

My point is that as with the black panel, it looks really good, but if the dimensions are off (or don't match), it's going to take effort to make it work and fit. It'll at least need some extra pieces and such in the illustrated vehicle. EACH one will need a good amount of structural adhesive and sealer before they are ready to see underlayment and carpet, either way.

Structural adhesive? Yes, the same stuff that glues the roof panel on later-model vehicles. With a few screws/pop rivets for good measure. Then a coat of good anti-rust paint on the underside, covered by a good layer of undercoat.

To me, one thing which seems to be in C2C;s favor is that it is more universal in nature. Which CAN cover some of the little unspoken-of things that can happen in the body jig set-up phase prior to welding (in the body shop section of the factory assy line). For example, the roof drip rail on my '70 Monaco 4drht is normal on the lh side, but minimal on the rh side. Roof was not installed squarely, but everything else fits and works well. These are things which will not become apparent until "you are there".

The conversation about "building your own" is valid, but if the C2C is over half-way there, then that can make it a good place to start, without having to buy the material, bend it, bead it, etc. Crude it might be, but better in other ways, because of it. Better than using fiberglass, like in "the old days".

Several ways to look at it. Everybody has their own sensitivities in that area.

Happy Holidays,
CBODY67

 

[JYBE]

I know that in our modern world, we want things which are "drop in", fit, and work flawlessly wiith a minimum of effort. BTAIM

My point is that as with the black panel, it looks really good, but if the dimensions are off (or don't match), it's going to take effort to make it work and fit. It'll at least need some extra pieces and such in the illustrated vehicle. EACH one will need a good amount of structural adhesive and sealer before they are ready to see underlayment and carpet, either way.

Structural adhesive? Yes, the same stuff that glues the roof panel on later-model vehicles. With a few screws/pop rivets for good measure. Then a coat of good anti-rust paint on the underside, covered by a good layer of undercoat.

To me, one thing which seems to be in C2C;s favor is that it is more universal in nature. Which CAN cover some of the little unspoken-of things that can happen in the body jig set-up phase prior to welding (in the body shop section of the factory assy line). For example, the roof drip rail on my '70 Monaco 4drht is normal on the lh side, but minimal on the rh side. Roof was not installed squarely, but everything else fits and works well. These are things which will not become apparent until "you are there".

The conversation about "building your own" is valid, but if the C2C is over half-way there, then that can make it a good place to start, without having to buy the material, bend it, bead it, etc. Crude it might be, but better in other ways, because of it. Better than using fiberglass, like in "the old days".

Several ways to look at it. Everybody has their own sensitivities in that area.

Happy Holidays,
CBODY67

I agree, and am sorry I started such a kerfuffel.

 

[Big_John]

I agree, and am sorry I started such a kerfuffel.

You didn't start anything... Nothing to apologize for.

You have guys that have tried to work with crap like this giving you the benefit of their experiences. I bought some C2C sheet metal for a project, thinking that while it might not be perfect, it would be OK. I was wrong. I wasted money on the panels and time and money trying to fit it. An awful lot of that C2C sheet metal ended up in the scrap pile. Some didn't even come close to fitting. That was a very simple floor too, not a car with compound curved floor panels.

What you could do is give us some sort of idea how much you need to repair. Is it the entire floor? Is it just a few pinholes? Probably something in between, but we don't know.

There's all levels of repairs that can be done. Anywhere from finding NOS sheet metal to pop riveting an old sign in. It's going to depend on what you want to do. A good repair goes a long way... A low end "crude" repair will knock thousands of dollars off the value of your car.

IMHO, there is no good reproduction replacement floor pans. There's some sheet metal that looks like it was made in a high school shop that you might be able to work with if you have some fabrication skills. Chances are, if you can't do the work yourself, you probably aren't going to be able to buy that sheet metal and get some pro to install it for a reasonable price, if they even take on the job.