Which grant steering adapter for C body?!

Just FYI, for Formal's with T&T. Grant doesn't make anything for them. A lot of Formal's have acrylic steering wheels that are cracked and have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps which will tear chunks of meat out of your hands. Leather wrapped steering wheels for Formal's are very limited. Gray for the Salon and I think Red is available.
I found one from a 77 Daytona Chsrger that got crushed by a tree. It wouldn't fit until I mounted the steering wheel on a lathe and machined a 1/2" of acrylic off the back of the steering wheel. I have a one of none blue leather wrapped steering wheel in a 78 Formal.
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So it seems the stock diameter copper surface area is needed to clear all the bolts, screws, etc. So the 4323 doesnt work? It looks like it would except its the metal collar is missing the turn signal cancel nub.

Is it touching the screw because the diameter is too wide or the hub itself is snugs down too deep? Perhaps experimenting with a low profile screw replacement (pan or truss head) in place of the original and/or a spacer on the shaft?
 
So it seems the stock diameter copper surface area is needed to clear all the bolts, screws, etc. So the 4323 doesnt work? It looks like it would except its the metal collar is missing the turn signal cancel nub.

Is it touching the screw because the diameter is too wide or the hub itself is snugs down too deep? Perhaps experimenting with a low profile screw replacement (pan or truss head) in place of the original and/or a spacer on t

thats what I'm thinking is that a smaller diameter copper surface is needed like the stock one shown to clear the screws and such. I think 4320 may work i havent tried yet. the 4313 copper surface touches the bolt head from the turn signal side once the steering nut is torqued down. I'll try your suggestion with a low profile screw replacement first, if that doesn't work I many grind that copper surface disc down in diameter. I'm trying to avoid having no horn if possible.
 
If you are buying screws also get a big ol lock-washer that fits the shaft. If you have the extra room try the washer to raise the copper plate. I say this because I was reading on the B-body site about excessive wear between the copper plate and the turn signal roller when the collar is too deep on the shaft.
 
If you are buying screws also get a big ol lock-washer that fits the shaft. If you have the extra room try the washer to raise the copper plate. I say this because I was reading on the B-body site about excessive wear between the copper plate and the turn signal roller when the collar is too deep on the shaft.
you mean a sleeve on the shaft? can you post a pick of the lock washer in mind. thanks
 
Yes, any kind of spacer that will fit the shaft and be able to tighten down safely. Doesnt have to be lock washer but these are thick in width and not too big in diameter.

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Thanks Snotty! Install kit 4282 did the job and had the correct colum cover I needed. Finally installed my new grant 973 steering wheel in mahogany wood. Think it looks great! Love the look, it works well with the interior colors, and classes up the car, very 70’s :)

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Looks great, I love the horn button too!

I have the same wheel but with foam instead of the hard plastic.
 
can anybody tell me which installation kit you used with good success for the horn to work? I may have to start Frankensteining this install :/
I've never been able to get a horn to work with a Grant wheel, and I've tried five times! I always use an external button.
 
I've never been able to get a horn to work with a Grant wheel, and I've tried five times! I always use an external button.
hi snotty, great idea. can you show me how you did the external switch? i may just break off that copper disc and mount as is
 
We’ll think I’ve found a solution went out to the shop and got macgyver with this thing. I took my dremmel cut off wheel and trimmed away the excess copper plate, cleaned up the edges and ground down the head bolt on the turn signal side. I have all my clearance issues fixed. I mounted the hub and hooked up power and did not hear the continuous horn sound like before.Hurray!!! I’ll update you guys with the final result once I fully mount the wheel and horn button. But looks promising think this is gonna work! If all fails I’ll buy the external switch Snotty recommended.

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I’m happy to report that my modification was a success! The wheel is mounted and the horn button works perfectly now.:usflag:
 
Glad to hear.
For future reference, I've always used this type:

80188 Grote Horn Button Surface Mount | Imperial Supplies

Did so in my '61 Bug, my dad's '63 Rambler, my Uncle's '62 Falcon, my Dad's '49 Chevy truck, and now in my Newport.
Yes, all those times I have FAILED to make a Grant horn button work.

You can see the button towards the bottom of this picture:

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