Can the drive shafts be pulled out and everything in the photo be changed easily if you leave the original bearing race in place (assuming it's not really messed up) ?
It is a little easier with the brake stuff out of the way, so yep... If the axles stick in, you can turn the drums around and put them back on the axles. Leave a little loose and use the drum like a slide hammer. If they still stick (I've only ever had one), you can rent a slide hammer at Auto Zone or places like that.I am going to start pulling all the brake hardware. Taking axles out is new to me. I've never done it before. Do I have to remove the pumpkin to release the axles?
no. as for the brakes, probably just remove the spreader bar for the e-brake if even that. four nuts on the hold down plates and yank 'em out! this was a good recent axle thread with lots of pictures and some great suggestions that seems to have worked out successfully: Axle LeakingDo I have to remove the pumpkin to release the axles?
"Green" bearings aren't tapered or adjustable. The idea is to eliminate the adjuster and thrust block in the rear. Some guys like them and some prefer the original design. I like the original design because I feel that iit can take a side load better. YMMV.Looking at other posts, what is the meant by the term "green"?
Tapered bearings give much more support in turns. Green bearings are good for straight ahead driving, like at a drag strip.Looking at other posts, what is the meant by the term "green"?