LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Fair enough, I can't get it cheap around me, I asked and it would have been the same price, or just shy of tti.
Will a purpose made dual exhaust for a '67 C body work on a '66?
- Thread starter Gerald Morris
- Start date
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Shop rates around here run more. and the work is often substandard. Local gear-heads all advised buy online instead.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Forgot to include the parts book info.
owen martin
Member
owen martin
Member
Where do you get a dual exhaust hand built for $2-$300 in this day n age? Especially in Alberta Canada?
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I got mine a couple weeks ago and plan to install it tomorrow and probably Friday and Saturday too. I don't dare work in the peak of a heat wave day with temperatures at ~112F., so this job will go slow. All the pipe slips together well when checking it out, so I will see how well they bent it according to 1967 specs. I got the Parts catalog for that year as well as '66, and the system looks very close to what is in the book. I have some hangers and straps, again, obtained with conformity to 1966-67 in mind when I bought the stuff.
I don't expect any MAJOR disaster. I also just finished upgrading my master cylinder, and will finish writing that job up when my brats give me time. Small children ARE little savages after all, and the Authorities no longer smile on birching......
I don't expect any MAJOR disaster. I also just finished upgrading my master cylinder, and will finish writing that job up when my brats give me time. Small children ARE little savages after all, and the Authorities no longer smile on birching......
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Beats me, I was implying he spend a little more than his budget and get a known kit that fits. Not 100% correct but cheaper than Accurate or Wladrons.
3175375
Senior Member
From where???
oldkimmer
Active Member
I took the factory hp dual exhaust system from a 68 dodge monaco wagon 4door/5 door along with the hp manifolds and installed it on a 66 dodge Monaco 2 door hard top. Fit perfect, tail pipes and all. Wouldnt of had to change the passenger side intermediate pipe and tail pipe but the muffler was different and welded on so I changed it all. Kim
owen martin
Member
Well I appreciate that info and if this exhaust does fit a 67 monaco then I do t mind installing it myself as the price may be feasible after all ... thanks
owen martin
Member
Well sure please post how it worked for you and if you think it will fit on my 67 monaco 383V8 original single exhaust manifolds or do I need to buy the HP ones!?
owen martin
Member
I didn’t mean to ignore your post here a couple days ago as I’ve been notified , it’s just that your 66 book shows dual exhaust seems to work for 440 cu and 383 cu in most cases but I’m still worried my 67 monaco 500 with 2 barrel carb and single exhaust will not be able accept that nice dual exhaust?? Any more ideas ok this I would appreciate
The parts book picture is "Representative" in nature, but very accurate in depicting what it does. The PARTS listings will DEFINE things for the particular Dodge (122"wb) sedans and wagons as the CHRYSLER non-SW numbers will define things for the Chrysler's 124" wb.
TTI might sell a general C-body system in their catalog and THEN customize it for your particular exhaust manifolds and then you might shorten the intermediate pipe for the various wheelbases (119" Plymouth, 122" Dodge and C-body wagons, 124" Chrysler) when the system is installed. Having not dealt with them yet, I suspect that's how it might work out.
Whereas the OEM parts book part numbers would be specific for the brand/particular C-body vehicle. As would the Walker Exhaust pipe listings. AND the parts book listings would be accurate for whatever exhaust manifolds came on that year's vehicle. Which is why, in a more generic listing as TTI and others might have, they need to know the exhaust manifold casting numbers so they can get the head pipe flanges the correct size and clocked the correct direction. BTAIM
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
TTI might sell a general C-body system in their catalog and THEN customize it for your particular exhaust manifolds and then you might shorten the intermediate pipe for the various wheelbases (119" Plymouth, 122" Dodge and C-body wagons, 124" Chrysler) when the system is installed. Having not dealt with them yet, I suspect that's how it might work out.
Whereas the OEM parts book part numbers would be specific for the brand/particular C-body vehicle. As would the Walker Exhaust pipe listings. AND the parts book listings would be accurate for whatever exhaust manifolds came on that year's vehicle. Which is why, in a more generic listing as TTI and others might have, they need to know the exhaust manifold casting numbers so they can get the head pipe flanges the correct size and clocked the correct direction. BTAIM
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
eBay vendor. I plan to crawl under Mathilda tomorrow to start installing the new pipes. The head to manifold flanges measure the proper width, but it remains to be seen whether the head pipes will bolt on nicely. That will be my first test: pull the old stuff loose and check how the head pipes fit. If all goes well as it looks it will, I will remove the ancient, much patched single 2" pipe that passes for the exhaust system, then install these nice dual 2.25" pipes. They got it looking VERY close to the '67 catalogue stuff, which is what this setup is purported to be for.
The exhaust I've run with appears to have come from something else and to have been loosely cobbled onto the car. There certainly is room for improvement.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You'll soon know how much I love or loathe what I got. Going to start tomorrow evening near sundown. MAY post around this time 24 hrs hence.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Just bolted on the left head pipe. FITS PERFECTLY! I admit I enjoy unusually good luck with my eBay purchases, but I pray every day, and had Mathilda blessed by the Bishop.....
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Got the right head pipe also bolted on very nicely. Both fit exactly as they should. Looks like these Canucs who did these knew their job. I had to remove the old single exhaust before bolting on the right side. THAT took some grunting, as I wanted to save as much of the old stuff as I could. (Need something for an engine cradle. The old Y pipe setup with the now shortened connection to the old Sears muffler Mathilda ran with for DECADES will make a good exhaust system when testing built engines before dropping them into the car.
Will post pix tomorrow. Job should go EASY. Bet it does too.
Will post pix tomorrow. Job should go EASY. Bet it does too.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Job went mostly easy, but there is ONE problem pipe, which makes things a but ugly on the driver side. The worst thing about this job was crawling around under the car in 110 F heat and 3 years of dust in my driveway carpet. I have pics of the work 3/4s done for now.
The driver side pipe runs too close to the drive shaft for my liking. Note how nicely the passenger side pipe lays in the contours of the underside. I may have to cut an inch or 1.5" out of that kick on the driver side and use a coupler to hold things tight after.
Note how straight the pipe over the rear axle runs from the muffler to the tailpipe and rear bumper. That bit of extra length on the driver side screwed it up there. I WILL post pics of things again in a few days. I AM driving Mathilda right now, and OH HOW QUIET SHE IS NOW! I need a month before I crawl under that car again, and preferably several until the temperature drops. THEN I can attack any remaining aesthetic problem in the bends on the driver side. Having NEVER done exhaust work aside from patching a leak in the old Y pipe and securely hanging the rest of that decades old rusty stuff, I'm happy with the fact that no CO is escaping under the car and poisoning my family.
The driver side pipe runs too close to the drive shaft for my liking. Note how nicely the passenger side pipe lays in the contours of the underside. I may have to cut an inch or 1.5" out of that kick on the driver side and use a coupler to hold things tight after.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
That's plenty of clearance.
The factory's design, at least as interpreted by Maremont when they made all these pipes, also comes real close to the driveshaft on the one side but I've never had it hit.
