Wiring Issue w/ Electronic ignition

[theswooger]

I've been having trouble getting my Chrysler to stay in the "run position" it starts just fine but when I release the key from "start" to "run" it stalls; I've figured out it defiantly has something to do with the blue wire in on the ballast resistor, but I've already replaced and soldered the lose prong, but it still won't stay running. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[myskin]

I've been having trouble getting my Chrysler to stay in the "run position" it starts just fine but when I release the key from "start" to "run" it stalls; I've figured out it defiantly has something to do with the blue wire in on the ballast resistor, but I've already replaced and soldered the lose prong, but it still won't stay running. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

View attachment 675931

Can you keep it running by holding the key in a position intermediate between start and run? If so, replace the ballast resistor

 

[customsportsman]

I agree with myskin; sounds like classic ballast resistor failure.

 

[MONC440]

Probably the ballast. Turn the key to run and see if you have voltage at the + side of the coil, if not check for power at the ballast. If you have no power at the red lead but have power at the blue lead the ballast it bad. If you don't have power to either one it is in your wiring of the switch.

 

[57fury440]

I agree with above. Change the ballast resistor.

 

[Big_John]

I concur with the ballast resistor being the likely culprit.

You can test it like @MONC440 suggested. An alternative is to unplug it and check resistance. I assume you have a 4 pin BR, so refer to the top picture.

Still another way is to just swap out the BR with a new one. Normally, I don't like to swap parts to find the problem, but a new BR is cheap and most guys carry a spare anyway, so buying another one to have in the glove box isn't a bad idea.

 

[theswooger]

Probably the ballast. Turn the key to run and see if you have voltage at the + side of the coil, if not check for power at the ballast. If you have no power at the red lead but have power at the blue lead the ballast it bad. If you don't have power to either one it is in your wiring of the switch.

I just swapped out the ballast and nothing changed but I still get power to the blue lead and no power to the red.

 

[MONC440]

I just swapped out the ballast and nothing changed but I still get power to the blue lead and no power to the red.

If you have power at the ballast at the blue and not the red then that ballast is bad. You need to check like Big John said above. Was it a new ballast? I have bought new parts that were bad. One thought I have is check the connectors at the ballast and make sure they are not corroded or damaged. Unplug it from the ballast and inspect inside the connector.

While you have the red side unplugged and the blue side hooked up turn the key to run and check the terminal on the red side for power.

 

[Big_John]

I just swapped out the ballast and nothing changed but I still get power to the blue lead and no power to the red.

I would check resistance of the BR as in the picture I posted. Another option would be to pull the red wire off the BR, leave the blue wire on the BR and check for voltage at the exposed terminal on the BR.

The problem with new parts these days is they can be defective right out of the box.

 

[MONC440]

The problem with new parts these days is they can be defective right out of the box.

Yes and many places have a no return policy on electrical parts.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Maybe the problem is in the ignition switch.

 

[MONC440]

Maybe the problem is in the ignition switch.

If he has power to the blue wire with the ignition in run the switch is working.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I'm betting on the bulkhead connector for Ignition 1. Ignition 1 is your run circuit. That is what you are losing.

 

[Big_John]

I'm betting on the bulkhead connector for Ignition 2. Ignition 2 is your run circuit. That is what you are losing.

Ignition 1 is the run circuit. If you look at the ignition 2 circuit, it bypasses the BR for starting and then ignition 1 circuit runs through the BR.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Ignition 1 is the run circuit. If you look at the ignition 2 circuit, it bypasses the BR for starting and then ignition 1 circuit runs through the BR.

Yeah, I had it backwards. I did have the same situation though with the start but no run and it was in my bulkhead connectors. I edited my answer in post 13.