azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
63 Fury, Poly 318. No start and when key turned off it keeps cranking. I swapped out the starter relay and ignition switch with no change. What am I missing?
Won't Stop Cranking
- Thread starter azblackhemi
- Start date
Offhand, I' say the solenoid in the starter is sticking.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah I thought so but I was hoping I wouldn't have to crawl under there as I have a dead car on my lift. I just tapped on it with a hammer and it unstuck for now.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Well can't you fix anything with duct tape and a hammer?You know... I wrote to hit it with a hammer and decided to erase it....
Very true.Well can't you fix anything with duct tape and a hammer?
I knew a guy that was a real hack of a mechanic.... You didn't want him working on your car in a shop... But if you were stuck on the side of the road, he was the guy that could get you home. Duct tape and a hammer!!
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
This car is giving me problems. When It got here it ran but barely. Had a junk carb on it. I replace the carb and it ran good. I drove it around the neighborhood but when I got home it died and wouldn't start. No spark. I quit for the day but when I came out the next morning it started right up. Again drove it around got home and again died. Now it won't start. A shop had just put an Electronic ignition kit on it. Now it did run the way they had it wired but they had the blue wire from the box going to the +of the coil instead of the ballast resistor. Not sure if that matters as it did run that way but I think today I'm going to un convert it and put the old points distributor back in it and see what happens.
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
If you have a digital multi meter, Test between that new ECU and neg post on your battery. Bet you get a high resistance reading. You need a good ground on that case otherwise the ECU gets hot and opens up a transistor until it cools down. Then it will start and run again until it overheats. This scenario has been beaten to death on this site.
twostick
Senior Member
If it's an OEM type conversion, a lot of the Chineseum "Orange" boxes are notoriously unreliable. Work when cold but die when hot with miraculous recovery once cold again is a recurring theme.
I believe the OEM one needs switched 12v to the box, so if it's on the + side of the coil, it will not likely be happy either because the current draw will increase with reduced voltage and overheat it.
Kevin
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
It is true that the Chinese made orange boxes are inferior to the older Mopar units but I suspect the bigger issue is in piss poor grounding being the norm since even the good ones will fail and open that transistor if not properly grounded. I always verify less than .05 ohms at the case and I have never had a failure since I dealt with that issue back in 1999.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks for the info guys. I stuck the old distributor back in and it started right up and runs great. Points looked new so I'll talk to the customer but I'd leave it as it is if it were mine.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
OK guys I'm back on this wagon and am stumped on the starter issue. It starts right up but starter stays engaged for a couple of seconds after letting go of the key. I've replaced the ignition switch, relay and the starter motor with solenoid. What else is in the circuit?
twostick
Senior Member
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
But it's done it with 2 different starters.
D Cluley
Active Member
I'm assuming that a '63 is set up similar to a '65.
Should be 2 studs on the starter with wires connected. The big wire comes straight from the battery to the big stud and then goes off to the starter relay and then on into the car to power everything. That provides the power to spin the starter and should be hot all the time. The little one should just have a wire that comes from the starter relay. That one should only be hot when you turn the key to crank the motor.
Disconnect the little one, connect a separate long wire to that stud and take the other end to the battery. If you touch that end to the positive post, the starter should crank, when you pull it away, the starter should stop.
I'm sure I don't have to tell you not to do this with the car in gear, but I'm putting it on the internet, so this is my disclaimer. ;)
Should be 2 studs on the starter with wires connected. The big wire comes straight from the battery to the big stud and then goes off to the starter relay and then on into the car to power everything. That provides the power to spin the starter and should be hot all the time. The little one should just have a wire that comes from the starter relay. That one should only be hot when you turn the key to crank the motor.
Disconnect the little one, connect a separate long wire to that stud and take the other end to the battery. If you touch that end to the positive post, the starter should crank, when you pull it away, the starter should stop.
I'm sure I don't have to tell you not to do this with the car in gear, but I'm putting it on the internet, so this is my disclaimer. ;)
Just thinking out loud here.... It sounds like the electrical bases are covered. If the ring gear on the convertor is chewed up or burred, it might not be letting the starter gear disengage. I would think that might be intermittent, but it might be worth looking at.
I think what @D Cluley suggested is the best way to test, but I'd use a remote starter switch rather than shorting the posts. With everything except the battery disconnected, the would check the starter to switch wiring.
I think what @D Cluley suggested is the best way to test, but I'd use a remote starter switch rather than shorting the posts. With everything except the battery disconnected, the would check the starter to switch wiring.
Similar threads
