That all looks like it just rolled off the assembly line...a long time ago.
I'd have to disagree about pulling the alt. That's a three minute task (remove the neg battery cable first!!) and makes the pump and filter work soooooo easy and visible.
Your fuel line pump to carb has to be better than mine. Any pics to help me design it better?
- Thread starter James Romano
- Start date
That all looks like it just rolled off the assembly line...a long time ago.
I'd have to disagree about pulling the alt. That's a three minute task (remove the neg battery cable first!!) and makes the pump and filter work soooooo easy and visible.
Definitely not!
Oh, as for vapor lock vs. the filter up top, I believe that Chrysler preferred the constant blast of 180* air from the fan vs. the roasting heat from the exhaust manifolds, etc. At least that's what I was told at a "Direct Connection" seminar about 40 years ago.
I've had zero problems with vapor lock with my OEM setup, on the hottest Florida days.
And please use a metal filter. You don't need to "see the dirt" in a flimsy plastic filter. Can't see it behind the alternator anyway.....
rapidtrans
Senior Member
Inline Tube has the two pieces from pump to carb.
Yeah, that's my link in #4 above. But you have to have the right pump with the outlet pointing towards the right fender. If it points down, you can't use the lower piece and will have to use rubber hose to the filter. Or....buy the right 5/16ths pump for $30.
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
To clarify..or to be specific.. I do not remove the alternator completely off the engine. I undo the lower bracket bolt,undo the belt and swing the alternator upwards out of the way.
James Romano
Well-Known Member
I will. All this is from previous owner. Car is awesome, but he knew nothing about maintenaning it. I'll get it all sorted one spot at a time.
James Romano
Well-Known Member
Anyone have any advice for stock/OEM looking connectors on thier coils? My neg is a shitty Pep Boys special and my positive has busted insulation. I have to replace both sides.
I appreciate all your help and knowledge.
JR
I appreciate all your help and knowledge.
JR
I wish I had an answer for the fully insulated OEM connectors, but I don't. I "made my own" using solder terminals and black shrink. Looks okayish, would love OEM items.
You sound like you have the OEM mojo working strong. Here's my credo: No visible modern crimp connectors (solder it!) and NO zip ties, no worm hose clamps, and no green top Interstate battery. Get a plain battery and remove the Advance Auto stickers. If you eliminate those four gremlins, your underhood will begin to look righteous.
But why?
I understand that if you don't want to have a correct period appearance, but since you hide your crimps with shrink (honorable!) why wouldn't you think that there is NOTHING so out of touch with 60/70 cars as zips?
James Romano
Well-Known Member
What do you use for wire hold downs then? I have zip ties on my spark wires because they're too long... Thanks Taylor!!
I'm enjoying my car, and zip ties are reversable, and don't have the money to buy the correct products when i got lots of zip ties I got from work and it's mostly under the hood and using them for sparkplug wire separators. I'm not a perfectionist. Just using what i have available for me to use and not a Concord correct car, i don't take my car to car shows for others. It's only for me and only me and no one else
Absolutely! I'm certainly with ya on all that. My comment was based on the tone of this thread being "OEM Correct-ish".
I attend a lot of car shows and the Amelia concours event every year and several Mecum and BJ auctions, so that's where my mind is at--I proudly AM a perfectionist.
So even on zillion dollar restorations I'll spot a sneaky zip or crimp and sneer at the owner (not really, just mentally). And so do the judges and the discerning buyers. When I bought my car at Mecum, the underhood was a jungle of zips, crimps, worm hose clamps, aftermarket parts, hardware store parts (a shutoff valve for the heater hose, a nasty makeshift battery hold-down, and a dangerously stupid throttle return spring) and the usual car store crappola. Now all is replaced with correct stuff, which is why I bought the car....to make it correct like a collector car should be. Yeah, I use lots of zips and some crimps under the dash (preferring to solder any important stuff), but it's not a concours car. Good, but not concours....As for the plug wire dilemma, I used all OEM (repro) plug wire looms and separators, etc. I custom made my plug wires using two MSD kits MSD Street Fire Spark Plug Wire Sets 5551 and MSD Street Fire Spark Plug Wire Sets 5552 so I'd have straight and angled boots as needed to get a tidy, correct-length routing, and no other fastening of the wires was needed. [Please note that those MSD kits are 8mm wire, so any OEM nylon looms or separators (which are for 7mm wire) needs to be drilled to 19/64ths.]
I spent a lot of time studying and photographing lots of Mopar underhoods around the country (including B and E bods), and then spent more time collecting all the little detail parts, and more time doing the work so it would look like 1970 again. That's my hobby!
I still keep mostly original looking, i needed a fuel line from fuel pump to fuel filter, I had to order a kit for a 440 6 barrel cause i couldn't bend the line right enough if i tried it would kink and break, and i can't flair lines at all...
James Romano
Well-Known Member
Absolutely! I'm certainly with ya on all that. My comment was based on the tone of this thread being "OEM Correct-ish".
I attend a lot of car shows and the Amelia concours event every year and several Mecum and BJ auctions, so that's where my mind is at--I proudly AM a perfectionist.
As for the plug wire dilemma, I used all OEM (repro) plug wire looms and separators, etc. I custom made my plug wires using two MSD kits MSD Street Fire Spark Plug Wire Sets 5551 and MSD Street Fire Spark Plug Wire Sets 5552 so I'd have straight and angled boots as needed to get a tidy, correct-length routing, and no other fastening of the wires was needed. [Please note that those MSD kits are 8mm wire, so any OEM nylon looms or separators (which are for 7mm wire) needs to be drilled to 19/64ths.]
I spent a lot of time studying and photographing lots of Mopar underhoods around the country (including B and E bods), and then spent more time collecting all the little detail parts, and more time doing the work so it would look like 1970 again. That's my hobby!
I like a little of both. Try to keep things OEM where possible, but bring things up to safety/modern quality where possible.
Do you have pics of where the wiper washer lines go? Mine is crushed under the fluid canister, goes up the left side (opposite battery side), along the front firewall...and each jet has the line just sitting on top of the cowling seal. I doubt this is factory. If you have a pic of the routing I can use, that would be another eyesore taken care of.
Thanks!
I'd be happy to take pics tomorrow, but maybe someone with your year/model might be a better info source.
Just saw your pic.....70 300 is totally different.
That is a tidy underhood as is!
Just saw your pic.....70 300 is totally different.
That is a tidy underhood as is!
James Romano
Well-Known Member
Thanks. It just needs a few more adjustments and replacing some of the worn decals and I'll be happy. I just wanted to confirm that routing as it just looks wrong...but it maybe that just how it should be
rapidtrans
Senior Member
Here is the 65 Monaco routing. Reservoir is between battery and fender.
there is a tee in rubber tubing at hood hinge on the right. The metal nozzles are screwed to top of firewall and poke through notches in cowl panel.
pump discharge tube loops under battery tray then up over wheel well to the tee
at top of firewall near hinge. This section of tubing has an outer tube cover maybe
for insulation or protection.
edit:
I would just reroute your tubing to run behind the rubber cowl seal over to the left end. This way tubing isn’t pinched when hood closes.
there is a tee in rubber tubing at hood hinge on the right. The metal nozzles are screwed to top of firewall and poke through notches in cowl panel.
pump discharge tube loops under battery tray then up over wheel well to the tee
at top of firewall near hinge. This section of tubing has an outer tube cover maybe
for insulation or protection.
edit:
I would just reroute your tubing to run behind the rubber cowl seal over to the left end. This way tubing isn’t pinched when hood closes.
Here's the only pic I have that might help you.....
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
First off, your reservoir should be to the right of the battery, with the pump being separate from the jar. The hose runs across the inner fender with the wiring, then up to the hood at the firewall into a "T" (actually in one end, two out the other), and then individually to those nozzles that you have. I don't see why the Fury would be different than the 300 in 65. Best pics I have...
What a 65 bottle looks like
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