ZedR
Member
Valid assumption
1968 Plymouth Fury Texas Highway Patrol
- Thread starter ZedR
- Start date
Valid assumption
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
And if you search the rest of your life for documentation and can't find any, you still can't rip it out. Lol.
ZedR
Member
Started right up and drove onto the trailer - now the 8 hour drive home!
what a great thread!!! That is a fantastic project and I love all the research you are doing. I think its great fun digging up stuff off the internet (old photos etc), really adds to the whole package around the car. I always appreciate the guys who put all this stuff into folders to read at car shows etc. Remember, lots of pics of everything you do and find will really add to the fun you will have!
Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work on what will be a great project!
Cheers Steve
PS that 62 Chrysler is the dogs!!!!!
Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work on what will be a great project!
Cheers Steve
PS that 62 Chrysler is the dogs!!!!!
ZedR
Member
Made it...Unit P8-516 is home. Amazing what a coat of primer will do for appearance. Now for a change of fluids and filters, when I get it off of the trailer.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Congratulations! Ive done the long haul home and it is actually fun. A moment in time of getting your new friend home safe and sound, hopefully uneventful yet, the whole ride is a story
ZedR
Member
Opinions needed-
I'm in the middle of replacing and rebuilding a few things on this car - when I got to the distributor I intended to put a pertronix kit in. Then I learned that the one I have is a 383/426/440 High-Performance only, dual point distributor - and pertronix does not offer a kit for this.
I'll probably just rebuild this one for now, and add their "flame thrower" coil to the original setup - but what would y'all do in the long run for the most reliability vs originality?
I'm in the middle of replacing and rebuilding a few things on this car - when I got to the distributor I intended to put a pertronix kit in. Then I learned that the one I have is a 383/426/440 High-Performance only, dual point distributor - and pertronix does not offer a kit for this.
I'll probably just rebuild this one for now, and add their "flame thrower" coil to the original setup - but what would y'all do in the long run for the most reliability vs originality?
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Get a parts store distributor for a later year with electronic ignition, buy a Mopar Performance ignition module and pigtail and you're good to go. The module is easily hidden.
Alan
I would like an answer to Stan's question as well if anyone knows. Underhood looks like a factory a/c compressor set up, but why the aftermarket looking underdash unit hanging there? Maybe regular factory a/c outlets interfered with some police equipment?
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Your car looks to have Factory installed AC, there was a picture posted of an equipped car that had an under dash unit.
They may have ordered some car with and some without then added it to some of those.
Up through 68 the CHP had a mix, in 69 they got a better deal ordering them all the same with AC.
Alan
ZedR
Member
Precisely...the under dash picture is a vintage pic of an ex-dps car. Just like Alan referred to in the CHP's case, A/C was still being phased in to the Texas cars & 68 was the first year to start getting it, but was still a mix of with and without.
My car does have Factory A/C in and out.
My car does have Factory A/C in and out.
ZedR
Member
Could someone give me a quick rundown on what interior and exterior parts will interchange between a 67 and a 68 fury sedan?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That's a loaded question that could take 10 pages.
There's so many fit/won't fit items, it's better you ask specifically for each.
ZedR
Member
lol, Fair enough:
- Windshield, rear window, and associated stainless trim.
- Front Bumper
- Rear Bumper
- Instrument Cluster Bezel
- Plastic B Pillar trim panels
- Kick Panels
- Vent window assembly
And I really need to just replace a section on the rear driver quarter, but it looks like the body lines in the panels are slightly off year-to-year
- Windshield, rear window, and associated stainless trim.
- Front Bumper
- Rear Bumper
- Instrument Cluster Bezel
- Plastic B Pillar trim panels
- Kick Panels
- Vent window assembly
And I really need to just replace a section on the rear driver quarter, but it looks like the body lines in the panels are slightly off year-to-year
ZedR
Member
While waiting on parts to arrive (booster, master cylinder, water pump, alternator), I disassembled, cleaned and painted the top end today. Looks a little blue in the picture, but I assure you it IS turquoise.
Can anyone recommend a place that can restore my AVS carburetor?
On that note, someone added a manual choke at some point in the cars history. Really wrestling with putting it back on or not.
Also, my air cleaner appears to be the original unsilenced air cleaner for a 440 HP engine - but, it is in a plain black finish, meaning not wrinkle paint. Considering the build date is December of '67, what would be accurate?
That was great advice... and you can probably sell the dual point to someone who has to have it for their restoration to offset your cost. That dual points unit is likely too valuable for the core cost if you buy a reman.
Really cool project, mostly because of your love for it... gotta ask... why 1968 specifically?
ZedR
Member
Specifically, the color scheme. 1968 was the first year for the black & white scheme that is still in use today.
From the mid-50's to 1965, they were all white. In 1966 & 67, They looked like this:
Compared to 1968 & Todays Chargers:
From the mid-50's to 1965, they were all white. In 1966 & 67, They looked like this:
Compared to 1968 & Todays Chargers:
As for the carb... does it run ok at speed? engine off does it give a squirt down the venturi when you open the throttle? do you have all of the parts to it?
if you can answer yes to those questions, consider rebuilding it yourself. Unless you want it restored with a new finish, all a rebuild really is a disassembly, thorough cleaning and reassemble with new seals/gaskets. The one absolutely critical part would be to reset the float correctly and the rebuild kit generally will come with directions. I would inspect and if I had doubts replace the float, any vacuum operated pulloffs were meant to be replaced during routine maintenance so they would likely need replacement. if you have a tin catch pan to slide under the car to catch oil, clean it up and use it to rebuild the carb on... if a small part gets away that should catch it. a standard rebuild is really just a matter of taking your time and attention to detail...taking lots of pics with your phone can help you figure out how to orient odd clips and components. Nobody else will care more than you about the details being right. parts stores still sell carb cleaner soaking buckets, just don't try to mess with the jets unless you really have to... the rebuilders generally don't touch them.
if you can answer yes to those questions, consider rebuilding it yourself. Unless you want it restored with a new finish, all a rebuild really is a disassembly, thorough cleaning and reassemble with new seals/gaskets. The one absolutely critical part would be to reset the float correctly and the rebuild kit generally will come with directions. I would inspect and if I had doubts replace the float, any vacuum operated pulloffs were meant to be replaced during routine maintenance so they would likely need replacement. if you have a tin catch pan to slide under the car to catch oil, clean it up and use it to rebuild the carb on... if a small part gets away that should catch it. a standard rebuild is really just a matter of taking your time and attention to detail...taking lots of pics with your phone can help you figure out how to orient odd clips and components. Nobody else will care more than you about the details being right. parts stores still sell carb cleaner soaking buckets, just don't try to mess with the jets unless you really have to... the rebuilders generally don't touch them.
Last edited:
68 4spd Fury
Senior Member
Thanks, looks to have a radio and rear speaker control, unusual for police cars, all I've saw back then had the delete plate. On those hub caps, they were most likely more secure than the "dog dish" type. Less likely to come off during severe use.
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