Treozen
New Member
Hello folks -
I've bought my '61 Newport, haven't even received it yet, and I'm already evaluating a few modifications. First on my list is usually brakes, and I'm fine keeping the drums provided they are working correctly, or can be made to do so, and that their performance is good. I've had some cars where even after new everything and perfect set-up, the drum brakes were frankly marginal here in hilly Washington. That said, regardless of what's at the wheel, I like the idea of a a dual reservoir master cylinder.
Now, my experience with Chrysler is somewhere between zero and zero. So as I was looking at pictures of the brake system, I'm really scratching my head. I'm used to a master cylinder that's bolted TO the booster, the booster providing the added oomph directly to the mastery cylinder when you press the pedal - but that's clearly not happening here with the Newport. I see no direct connection from the booster to the tiny master cylinder, AND I've even found that in many cases the master cylinder is the same part number, whether a power or manual system. So ....I'm not in Kansas anymore, clearly. It also doesn't appear to be a remote system either, like you'd find on a 60's Jaguar.
The only thing I can figure, is that the booster is acting on the brake pedal itself. So rather than give you assist acting on the master cylinder itself (like in a Chevy) the Chrysler system is somehow acting on the brake pedal - almost as though the booster is installed the other way around, vs a Chevy, and so its providing assistance by pushing the pedal linkage, which in turn acts on the master cylinder. Am I close here? or....I don't know....witchcraft?
IF I am right, this also presents two questions:
A) If I were to upgrade to a dual master cylinder, it shouldn't impact the booster at all, as they are effectively independent of each other - unlike a Chevy where you need to match mountings, pushrods, and the like.....right? All I'd need to do is hopefully find a dual master that matches the mounting pattern, linkages and lines....and hey-presto, dual master.
B) If I were to convert to discs - which is something I've done several times - some successes, others not so much (I actually co-authored a pretty definitive install guide for bullet-bird Thunderbirds) I would only need to worry about the wheel-end of things, because I could use the existing power assist booster and master - all be it switched to a dual master, and probably an in-line residual pressure valve for the rear - right?
Thanks,
Allan.
I've bought my '61 Newport, haven't even received it yet, and I'm already evaluating a few modifications. First on my list is usually brakes, and I'm fine keeping the drums provided they are working correctly, or can be made to do so, and that their performance is good. I've had some cars where even after new everything and perfect set-up, the drum brakes were frankly marginal here in hilly Washington. That said, regardless of what's at the wheel, I like the idea of a a dual reservoir master cylinder.
Now, my experience with Chrysler is somewhere between zero and zero. So as I was looking at pictures of the brake system, I'm really scratching my head. I'm used to a master cylinder that's bolted TO the booster, the booster providing the added oomph directly to the mastery cylinder when you press the pedal - but that's clearly not happening here with the Newport. I see no direct connection from the booster to the tiny master cylinder, AND I've even found that in many cases the master cylinder is the same part number, whether a power or manual system. So ....I'm not in Kansas anymore, clearly. It also doesn't appear to be a remote system either, like you'd find on a 60's Jaguar.
The only thing I can figure, is that the booster is acting on the brake pedal itself. So rather than give you assist acting on the master cylinder itself (like in a Chevy) the Chrysler system is somehow acting on the brake pedal - almost as though the booster is installed the other way around, vs a Chevy, and so its providing assistance by pushing the pedal linkage, which in turn acts on the master cylinder. Am I close here? or....I don't know....witchcraft?
IF I am right, this also presents two questions:
A) If I were to upgrade to a dual master cylinder, it shouldn't impact the booster at all, as they are effectively independent of each other - unlike a Chevy where you need to match mountings, pushrods, and the like.....right? All I'd need to do is hopefully find a dual master that matches the mounting pattern, linkages and lines....and hey-presto, dual master.
B) If I were to convert to discs - which is something I've done several times - some successes, others not so much (I actually co-authored a pretty definitive install guide for bullet-bird Thunderbirds) I would only need to worry about the wheel-end of things, because I could use the existing power assist booster and master - all be it switched to a dual master, and probably an in-line residual pressure valve for the rear - right?
Thanks,
Allan.