floor&trunk pans

what is shown in the desoto is 100% more than i have now thanks again for posting the pics i did`nt figure it would be easy but you have to start with something
 
i ordered a r&l front set from them they shipped right away these are obviosly not oem but for a starting point for replacing what i have they are a hell of a lot better than starting with a flat piece of metal and a hammer . i will go on to get the rears and and trunk stuff from these guys. possibly 2 sets.good luck with your project
 
just tossed in where they will eventually go

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I went to a Tech & Trade school for High School 1969-1973...I took Plumbing which I enjoyed and worked for a few years before going in the Army.

Looking back I wish I would of taken Auto Body....LOL!
 
i wish you had taken auto body you`re close enough to me to bring these things to you :doggie1:
 
same ones i used. they need some adjusting here and there but will work fine. jnnpjp.JPGfloor2.JPG

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Nothing beats factory metal...
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Buy a $500 parts car (plus $100 to get it home) and save hundreds over the project(s).


Alan

PS I still think those patch panels are junk.
 
Cuz he seems determined to use them regardless so after the chalk line is layed down I want to compare the area to be cut to the replacement panels.
That will show how close or not the replacement panels which I called junk comes to replacing the factory floor pan being removed. You already knew the answer but you had to bust my balls and make me spend all this time typing the response.

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It is hard to show in pictures but the grooves are "V" shapped and about 3/32" deep not even close to the 3/8" deep "U" shapped ones on the factory panel. The grooves are not even close to the same layout and the panel cutout not even close, we won't even get into the forming aspects.

This is the one I got for the trunk, good thing in further evaluation I found I didn't need much and we just used flat stock. I griped and they refunded me the money.

These are no where near close for a "restoration" but for better than nothing rust repair they are fine but for the money at that point I'd just work with flat stock.

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Alan
 
It is hard to show in pictures but the grooves are "V" shapped and about 3/32" deep not even close to the 3/8" deep "U" shapped ones on the factory panel. The grooves are not even close to the same layout and the panel cutout not even close, we won't even get into the forming aspects.


This is the one I got for the trunk, good thing in further evaluation I found I didn't need much and we just used flat stock. I griped and they refunded me the money.

These are no where near close for a "restoration" but for better than nothing rust repair they are fine but for the money at that point I'd just work with flat stock.

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Alan

very true. they are made to simulate not duplicate. in my case they are just floor pans. unless someone pulls the carpet or crawls underneath with a tape measure they function fine.
 
package up two complete nos factory floors front to back trunk included call me with a price. 66 300 convertibles. your move
 
package up two complete nos factory floors front to back trunk included call me with a price. 66 300 convertibles. your move

We would all love NOS metal but even if it existed it would be cheaper to buy a car, a nice one.
I bought a $500 parts car and spent $100 to get it home on trailer rental and gas.

From this car I have I have fixed over 4 cars.

I used much of it on my current CHP project:
  • Hood
  • Trunk
  • Floor
  • Door guts
  • Trunk Hinges
  • Door hinge
  • Misc patches.
I used the lover quarters and rear end housing on my other Polara.
My friend got the rear end gear.
The stub frame went to a member here.
I sold the transmission
And I’m not done with it yet.
I probably saved well over $3000

My point about these patch panels is simply that for the price and quality you might just as well use sheet stock. For few dollars more buy a parts car.

The panel I pulled from my parts car was as good as NOS, in the trunk we used flat stock. On my project you will never see under the trunk mat as the spare and equipment prevent it from moving.

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For those that are expecting restoration quality parts those panels are not and would be a waste of money. If they work for you great, for the money and effort to make them work I'd pass.


Alan
 
thanks for the reply alan . after a full year of searching the east i found that no parts cars of the quality that you found are still in existence there are some still but in to good condition to cut up every thing else was as bad as i already have
 
I'm wondering if some B Body stuff can be modified to 'fit'. I'm going to need a trunk pan for my 300.

At that point maybe a Chevy or Ford part, are we talking fill it rust repair or a reasonable restoration?

We go back to the same debate, Effort to Gain

What is the desired outcome?

A good bodyman can recreate the dimples and grooves or jigsaw them out of other panels and puzzle them back into a "C-Body" panel.

What is the budget? you doing it yourself?
How much time? anything can be done it is just time and money.

As I always say, if they can build the pyramids I can find a way to make this work.


Alan
 
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