Greetings, various restoration issues

[73Polara360]

Hi there,



New member here. I'm buying a 1972 Dodge Polara coupe, and it has a few issues so I have elected to post here under "restoration" as they are not specific to one area.

Firstly, I have heat but no fan activity. I think the heater core is good but it needs a new blower motor. I have been looking for resources on the replacement of the part. I am completely new to older vehicles, this is a first for me.



Also, the vehicle seems to have some water ingress occurring based on staining on the passenger side carpet. Overall the car is rust free and an immaculate survivor so I am thinking a small crack or peeled away part of the windshield seal, or, plugged rain rain tray drainage holes?



Dash lights are also not working, seems to be traced to a faulty headlight switch?



Lastly, it needs a new idler arm installed.



I haven't picked up the car yet but these are the issues we noted during the viewing that I am inheriting with the purchase of the vehicle.



Also on my honey to-do list:

-tach

-water temp gauge

-oil pressure gauge



If anyone has experience with how to approach the above issues as well as with installing gauges on the 360 engine I'd love to see the resources you used if any, or hear any advice you have.

I am thinking the dash has to come off for the fan blower and to begin tracing the dash cluster not lighting up. While I am in there I thought I'd run gauges.



Thank you kindly



Joe

Edit- oh and here's a photo I'm picking her up this week

 

[cbarge]

Hi there,



New member here. I'm buying a 1972 Dodge Polara coupe, and it has a few issues so I have elected to post here under "restoration" as they are not specific to one area.

Firstly, I have heat but no fan activity. I think the heater core is good but it needs a new blower motor. I have been looking for resources on the replacement of the part. I am completely new to older vehicles, this is a first for me.



Also, the vehicle seems to have some water ingress occurring based on staining on the passenger side carpet. Overall the car is rust free and an immaculate survivor so I am thinking a small crack or peeled away part of the windshield seal, or, plugged rain rain tray drainage holes?



Dash lights are also not working, seems to be traced to a faulty headlight switch?



Lastly, it needs a new idler arm installed.



I haven't picked up the car yet but these are the issues we noted during the viewing that I am inheriting with the purchase of the vehicle.



Also on my honey to-do list:

-tach

-water temp gauge

-oil pressure gauge



If anyone has experience with how to approach the above issues as well as with installing gauges on the 360 engine I'd love to see the resources you used if any, or hear any advice you have.

I am thinking the dash has to come off for the fan blower and to begin tracing the dash cluster not lighting up. While I am in there I thought I'd run gauges.



Thank you kindly



Joe

Edit- oh and here's a photo I'm picking her up this week

View attachment 708681

Welcome!
Bailey the Beluga whale looks great!
( see Finding Nemo movie lol)
I would test the blower motor resistor first before condeming the motor.
You can run a jumper wire directly to the motor. If it works then replace the resistor.
The resistor is a common part the was used all across the board. Napa or Oriellys can order one.
lots of them on Ebay too.
The entire dash does not need to be removed-- yet it does make the job easier-- but the ashtray and gloveboxx does.
THe rheostat in healight switched quite common to fail and no dash lights.
But change the bulbs first as they are much easier to do.
Again a common awitch that any parts jobber can order.
Fuelage cars (69 to 73) were notorious for water leaks.
Have a replacement windshield on standby as the old one may have to be removed to repair the leak.
Does not hurt to blow out the cowl vents as a process of elimination.

 

[73Polara360]

Thank you for that write up that gives me plenty to begin researching and tinkering with, appreciate it!

 

[Big_John]

Firstly, I have heat but no fan activity. I think the heater core is good but it needs a new blower motor. I have been looking for resources on the replacement of the part. I am completely new to older vehicles, this is a first for me.



Also, the vehicle seems to have some water ingress occurring based on staining on the passenger side carpet. Overall the car is rust free and an immaculate survivor so I am thinking a small crack or peeled away part of the windshield seal, or, plugged rain rain tray drainage holes?

No heat and a wet passenger floor. These two may go together as a heater core leak.

AC or no AC? As @cbarge mentioned, it could be the resistor. Could be the switch too. Check the fuse first.

A factory service manual is your friend here. I suggest buying one (eBay has them, I suggest a CD version) and in the meantime, you can download a '72 Plymouth version from Service Manuals – MyMopar that will be pretty close.

Dash lights are also not working, seems to be traced to a faulty headlight switch?

If you can't find a new switch, @Devinism (a member here) can rebuild your old one.

Lastly, it needs a new idler arm installed.

Not hard to do. The FSM (factory service manual) can guide you with this.

Also on my honey to-do list:

-tach

-water temp gauge

-oil pressure gauge

I like Autometer gauges myself. Electric gauges are much easier to install. Pick whatever you think looks good. A tee on the oil sender will let you keep the warning light. I can't remember if there's an extra hole for the temperature sender in the 360 engine, but if there is, you can keep the warning light there too.

 

[CBODY67]

ONE source of the rh carpet issues can be the hvac case on factory a/c cars. The way the soft rubber gasket has interact with the slip-on "nut" retainers the bolts go through (to hold the two case halves together) is flaky to start with, but made sense for "easy assembly" back then. Also check the drain tube for the hvac case that sticks through the lower cowl for obstructions.

A coolant leak is a possibility, too. Touch the damp (formerly) area with your fingers to see what the smell might be. A sweeter smell, coolant. Mustier, hvac case leak.

Our '72 Newport, purchased new, had condensate leaks onto the rh frt carpet area. A new dealer-installed gasket did not help. Closer inspection of the situation revealed the case half attachment was flaky at best. When I bought my '70 Monaco Brougham 4drht in 1975, it had the factory heavy vinyl floor mats in it. I later was moving the floor mats to vacuum and the rh mat had moisture beads on the back of it. The carpet was wet, so I put the mats in the rear so the front carpet area could dry out! No rain had been happening for weeks that summer.

Plus, before that, I had been at the dealership when an unhappy customer was complaining that the recently-done hvac gasket replacement (due to leaking case conditions) had not fixed the issue on her '69 Fury.

So, to me, those hvac case leaks are, or were, "known territory" back then. Changing the bolts and slip-on nuts for case half clamping components or putting a dab of high-heat silicone sealer dabbed around the push-on nuts might be options.

DO change all three areas of rubber fuel lines on the car. Tank sender to "body" metal fuel line, at the stub-frame connection under/near the rh front footwell area, and at the fuel pump and fuel filter. Then the rubber brake line sections, not forgetting that the metal lines can rust internally, too! At the front and on the rear axle. Then the rear brake whl cylinders and the front area, too.

THEN, get used to what the car likes, learning that and how to get the best performance from the car as it is. Tune-ups and changing ALL of the fluids in the process.

Although the engine might be "big" compared to others, that does not mean it's going to deliver tire-smoking performance with the (suspected) 2.7_ rear axle ratio). It WILL have relaxed cruising performance with decent fuel economy, though. Not a "slouch" in stop-light traffic, but not a "rerror" either.

Welcome! Good luck! Keep us posted on how everything goes!
CBODY67

 

[Sport Fury 67]

Hi Joe: If you are going to be doing some wiring upgrades, it is suggested that you read this post about installing a ammeter-bypass circuit. It is very simple to do and provides the background, details and instructions for this upgrade. Cbarge created a very good video on YouTube.

Ammeter bypass

Like the other's have posted, a Service Manual will be a good source of information as it will provide step by step instructions for diagnosing your electrical problem with the blower motor. Here is a source to to initially help you along.

Service Manuals – MyMopar

To learn more about you car, check out the Library tab.

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page (1970 - 1974)


Have fun and enjoy.

 

[3C's & a D?]

There is a pinch weld that runs the length of the firewall, it's a little ledge that water will sit on. Over the years it will find a way through the two pieces of metal pinched together. I found this out once after checking everything else. Also, that's a 1973 Polara.

 

[hootothecore]

Welcome!
Bailey the Beluga whale looks great!
( see Finding Nemo movie lol)
I would test the blower motor resistor first before condeming the motor.
You can run a jumper wire directly to the motor. If it works then replace the resistor.
The resistor is a common part the was used all across the board. Napa or Oriellys can order one.
lots of them on Ebay too.
The entire dash does not need to be removed-- yet it does make the job easier-- but the ashtray and gloveboxx does.
THe rheostat in healight switched quite common to fail and no dash lights.
But change the bulbs first as they are much easier to do.
Again a common awitch that any parts jobber can order.
Fuelage cars (69 to 73) were notorious for water leaks.
Have a replacement windshield on standby as the old one may have to be removed to repair the leak.
Does not hurt to blow out the cowl vents as a process of elimination.

If the rheostat is an issue, sometimes spinning the dimmer control back and forth a number of times can make it work again. Issue is corrosion on the contacts.

 

[Big_John]

Hi Joe: If you are going to be doing some wiring upgrades, it is suggested that you read this post about installing a ammeter-bypass circuit. It is very simple to do and provides the background, details and instructions for this upgrade. Cbarge created a very good video on YouTube.

Ammeter bypass

While that is good intentions, it's been proven to me that it's not a good idea to do that mod. @72RoadRunnerGTX has done some videos showing the issues. As a matter of fact, I'll be removing the bypass from my car this spring.

With the '72 Dodge, the ammeter is already shunted, so it doesn't run a lot of current through the ammeter if that is a worry.

 

[73Polara360]

Thank you to all for the replies. Lots to think about!
I don't believe it's a heater core issue as there is heat, and the fan is dead, so the no-heat on the windshield issue is (at this time) looking fan-related but I will put my nose to the carpet and check for sweetness.

Not sure if this is a factory AC car I'll have a look once I get it home. If it's a non-AC car that would conveniently eliminate the HVAC case issues.

I do need to get a shop manual, they're a little pricey, I may go the CD route and print as I go...

That pinch weld sounds like a distinct possibility, is that easy to access and maybe get some silicone on, or is that a essentially a huge PITA I'll have to live with?

Fluid changes will also be first on my list, once it's in the air I'll have a look at all the brake lines and fuel lines, that's good information.

 

[3C's & a D?]

The pinch weld is quite accessible, I used a small wire brush and a pick to prep and brushed on a thick coat of rubberized undercoat, really pushing into the crevice and then creating a bit of a bead in the little V channel. As I recall there were a couple of notches in the upper stamping that seemed to be the problem areas.

 

[73Polara360]

Well I got her home today.

Stopped off at marko's place and we referenced his Plymouth and looked at some areas I can start working on such as getting to the seat bolts underneath to get those out and get the carpet out. He's also got a good idea on how to easily access the blower motor and replace it if necessary, but first I'll try pulling the switch assembly and checking the contacts.

Headliner has to come out it appears to have had critters.

Then just the idler arm and some new fluids.

The wife is royally pissed to see a project car in the driveway and I will be sleeping in the shed tonight next to my lawnmower.

It's great to have found both the forum and a fellow enthusiast in the neighborhood to draw upon the knowledge base.

Here she is next to marko's immaculate New Yorker.

 

[73Polara360]

Got the cruddy, disintegrating, mouse pee-soaked headliner out yesterday. Think ill just wire wheel, acetone, and rust encapsulate the inner roof for now. I'm not really too big on the idea of "restoration", I don't mind the rough project car vibe. Maybe one day a new headliner can go in but moreso I just want it clean and dry in there. Carpet is next. That is salvageable and I hope to keep it.

 

[73Polara360]

These arrived today. Great price from Rock Auto.
These look like they'll be extremely helpful in some situations and (being in the era when photographs and printing of detailed photos was likely expensive and less common) a little confusing in others, but I am glad I have them!
.

 

[73Polara360]

Well a small update, I took care of the interior, took out all the old moldy mouse pee stuff out, bye bye headliner, took out and steam cleaned the carpets and seats, wire brushed the floors and laid down some Por-15 and Tremclad. Wire wheeled and primered the ceiling. The interior is very clean now.

Idler arm was kapoot, messed around with it a few weekends, spent another couple of weekends trying to chase electrical gremlins and determine why my blower fan isn't working. Idler arm wouldn't come off. Eventually sawzalled the bolt head off because it was stripped and turning, wrong choice as it was still stuck. Kinda threw my hands up. At least I was able to wire up my tachometer on my own, and after some multi-metering I ascertained its my blower motor not the resistor or switch, so some small victories. Also pulled a near football size mouse nest out of the raintray and solved my water ingress issues.

Following that, as was recommended by folks here, I had a professional shop just go through everything thoroughly and make the vehicle road worthy. By this time the list had grown, while attempting the idler arm I noticed I had a leaking rear main seal, leaking oil pan gasket, a leaking transmission pan, plus the idler arm that was absolutely pooched and would not come off.

Got her back today. Rear main seal done, oil pan gasket done there too of course, transmission filter was changed, no shavings in the pan, replaced with rubber gaskets not cork, that pesky idler arm was installed, and the front end was inspected and all points greased properly. Everything got sighted and the entire car was gone thru. There were no rotted brake or fuel lines or any red flags found, all the stuff you guys mentioned to be careful of.

They even painted the oil pan for me. Cleaned everything up nice and dry. Extremely thorough technician my hat goes off, slipped him a cash tip on top.

Wish I had before photos, everything was just slick and dripping, so much unknown, every time I got under the car my heart sank. I do not have much to work with at home, just ramps and hand tools. I have two jobs a wife n kids, I did what I could in the driveway on my Sundays but ultimately it had to be sent out to professionals before summer ran out. Happy with my decision and the price was extremely reasonable. Underside of the car is clean enough to eat off now.

Next is plugs, wires, the two belts, and I will take off the vinyl roof. Also, blower fan before winter.