1965 Newport Identification Help

[Captain Rust Bucket]

Hello everyone,

Newbie here. For my first ever project car I bought a 1965 Newport 2-door hardtop with a 3-speed manual. I got it from a tow yard so they had no history to provide. I've been looking through the service manual to learn more about the car and I need help identifying the engine and carburetor. The engine looks like the stock 383 that these cars come equipped with from the factory but I haven't actually looked at the stamping on the block to make sure of it. I have to remove a lot of grime to be able to see that yet. The carburetor is missing the tag with the model number but there is a sticker that might help. It says Holley remanufactured so I'm thinking that the original carburetor was replaced. I'm hoping to get a rebuild kit for it so any help would be appreciated. I'll post the serial number and body plate too if anyone is able to help me decipher the meaning.
Thanks in advance.

-Captain Rust Bucket

 

[CBODY67]

It is highly probable that the engine is original to the car. ONLY casting numbers/dates and stamp codes on the front pad of the motor (illustrated in the factory service manual) will identify the engine as POSSIBLY being for the car. No VIN stamps or such on the blocks, just production dates and stamps on the pad.

The carb is a Carter BBD 1.5 (specific to 383s, but of the same family as the similar BBDs that came on 318s). There should be a stamp number near the idle mixture screws on the throttle body, just above the base gasket area, on the front. Generally, the kits for carbs used on many years of engines will come with all of the gaskets, rather than being specific in nature. The Holley tag is for Holley's use only. Should be a section on that carb in the factory service manual.

In general, when a mass-rebuilder gets a core carburetor in for rebuilding, its innards may or may not stay with the core as it gets cleaned and put back together. Yet the calibration for these BBDs were close enough that they would work for many different applications of 383s and model years.

As to tune-up parts, if the engine now runs decently well, you can learn how to replace the ignition points, but do NOT change the condenser. Newer condensers do not have a good track record of working well, if at all, so keeping the older one is advised.

To learn more about the car, you can also download a 1965 Chrysler parts manual at www.mymopar.com . Might need to manually input that address.

Also, you can head over to the "Library" section of www.hamtramck-historical.com (might need to manually input that address) and follow the prompts to the spreadsheet menu and the Color and Trim Guide, plus the Dealer Order Guide. Many questions can be answered by these two guides! Plus option codes which can appear on the Data Plate under the hood. The Data Plate format is usually in the INFO section of the parts manual.

It is probably necessary to replace ALL of the rubber fuel line sections. One at the tank sending unit (with the special grounding clamp so the fuel gauge works), the section under the rh cowl area, and the sections at the fuel pump and fuel filter. Other than being old, the ethanol in current gasoline dries-out the rubber from the inside out, causing leaks and the possibility of "sucking air" . . . no matter how good they might look like on the outside.

Replacing the old gear oil in the transmission and the rear axle can be recommended, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

It is highly probable that the engine is original to the car. ONLY casting numbers/dates and stamp codes on the front pad of the motor (illustrated in the factory service manual) will identify the engine as POSSIBLY being for the car. No VIN stamps or such on the blocks, just production dates and stamps on the pad.

The carb is a Carter BBD 1.5 (specific to 383s, but of the same family as the similar BBDs that came on 318s). There should be a stamp number near the idle mixture screws on the throttle body, just above the base gasket area, on the front. Generally, the kits for carbs used on many years of engines will come with all of the gaskets, rather than being specific in nature. The Holley tag is for Holley's use only. Should be a section on that carb in the factory service manual.

In general, when a mass-rebuilder gets a core carburetor in for rebuilding, its innards may or may not stay with the core as it gets cleaned and put back together. Yet the calibration for these BBDs were close enough that they would work for many different applications of 383s and model years.

As to tune-up parts, if the engine now runs decently well, you can learn how to replace the ignition points, but do NOT change the condenser. Newer condensers do not have a good track record of working well, if at all, so keeping the older one is advised.

To learn more about the car, you can also download a 1965 Chrysler parts manual at www.mymopar.com . Might need to manually input that address.

Also, you can head over to the "Library" section of www.hamtramck-historical.com (might need to manually input that address) and follow the prompts to the spreadsheet menu and the Color and Trim Guide, plus the Dealer Order Guide. Many questions can be answered by these two guides! Plus option codes which can appear on the Data Plate under the hood. The Data Plate format is usually in the INFO section of the parts manual.

It is probably necessary to replace ALL of the rubber fuel line sections. One at the tank sending unit (with the special grounding clamp so the fuel gauge works), the section under the rh cowl area, and the sections at the fuel pump and fuel filter. Other than being old, the ethanol in current gasoline dries-out the rubber from the inside out, causing leaks and the possibility of "sucking air" . . . no matter how good they might look like on the outside.

Replacing the old gear oil in the transmission and the rear axle can be recommended, too.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Thanks for the help CBODY67!
I appreciate it. I will check out the resources you provided.
I have not tried firing up the engine yet because I don't know how long it's been sitting for. So I'm waiting for a borescope to be delivered to take a look in the cylinders and lubricate everything before attempting manual rotation of the crankshaft. I will be sure to keep the condenser if it is working properly. Is there a way to bench test it with a multimeter that you know of?
I'm planning on bypassing the fuel system to test out the engine and eventually replace all the fuel lines and inspect and clean out the old fuel tank as well as changing fluid in the transmission and rear axle.
I also have a short somewhere under the driver side dashboard so I have to sort that out before I can even run power to the ignition. I'm going to try running power directly to the starter to bypass that if the manual rotation test goes well.

-Captain Rust Bucket

 

[Snotty]

Someone put that in a junkyard?? Idiots!!

Let's see some pictures of the whole car!

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

Someone put that in a junkyard?? Idiots!!

Let's see some pictures of the whole car!

It was in a tow yard, but I got a killer deal on it! No title, no power steering, no A/C, no brake booster, 3 on the tree transmission, and plenty of rust on the body but for only $1900, I think it's an ideal project for a beginner. I haven't taken many of my own, but here are some from the listing.

-Cheers

 

[Snotty]

Whoa, nice score!!! I hope you were able to get a clear title, or even a salvage title. Fully manual and three on the tree; that's going to be fun!!

My parents bought a '65 4-door Newport hardtop new in '65. 383 4 bbl, auto, AC; beautiful car!!

 

[CBODY67]

You might head to the auto supplies and look for "fogging oil" to spray into the cylinders liberally before start-up and initial turning it over with a breaker bar.

That car did NOT deserve to be where it was, seems to me. Somebody must have run it out of gas or something simple broke and they wanted an excuse to get something else. BTAIM

Keep us posted on your progress!
CBODY67

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

Whoa, nice score!!! I hope you were able to get a clear title, or even a salvage title. Fully manual and three on the tree; that's going to be fun!!

My parents bought a '65 4-door Newport hardtop new in '65. 383 4 bbl, auto, AC; beautiful car!!

Thanks! Unfortunately only a lien packet so wish me luck with that process.
I agree it's a beautiful car. I'm a little intimidated by the prospect of cutting into the body to remove the rusty spots and trying my hand at sheet metal forming and welding.

 

[Big_John]

I agree it's a beautiful car. I'm a little intimidated by the prospect of cutting into the body to remove the rusty spots and trying my hand at sheet metal forming and welding.

How bad is the rust?

There's California rust and then there's upstate New York rust. It's a relative thing. Pictures will help.

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

You might head to the auto supplies and look for "fogging oil" to spray into the cylinders liberally before start-up and initial turning it over with a breaker bar.

That car did NOT deserve to be where it was, seems to me. Somebody must have run it out of gas or something simple broke and they wanted an excuse to get something else. BTAIM

Keep us posted on your progress!
CBODY67

I'll look for that fogging oil. How does that compare to mystery oil or ATF/kerosene mix?
I'll keep you posted on the progress.

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

How bad is the rust?

There's California rust and then there's upstate New York rust. It's a relative thing. Pictures will help.

It's not terrible. I can take some close up pictures tomorrow but basically it is on the front lip of the hood and back lip of the trunk lid, there is some along the bottom of the B-pillars (sorry if my terminology is incorrect) oh and some along the panel that meets the bottom of the back window. I don't think there is any on the floor boards but I haven't peeled the carpeting off.

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the information. You might check out the Eastwood Products website for some DIY metal-working tools. You might also consider enrolling in a local junior college auto shop class one semester. That way, you can learn about panel construction and such.

CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

I'll look for that fogging oil. How does that compare to mystery oil or ATF/kerosene mix?
I'll keep you posted on the progress.

As I understand it, the fogging oil is more for the last procedure before an engine is put away for long storage times. That's the first place I saw it mentioned. Recently, it was mentioned to do that as a pre-turn-over activity. To put some oil where prior oil had dried-up from in prior times.

Marvel Mystery Oil is not a real lubricant as motor oil. Just an additive that might wick into dry places where lube might have been. Perhaps 2-stroke oil would work just as well? Kerosene/diesel has some base lubricity in it to lube the injection pump and injectors with. Perhaps "off-road" diesel might be best in this respect, to mix with atf? Kerosene dilutes the atf. Atf has more high-load characteristics, by observation. In one respect, the fogging oil could happen first, let it set and penetrate, and then follow that with a mix of good gas and 2-stroke oil so every part of the fuel system would get some "lube action", plus the intake valve stems.

Whatever works . . .

CBODY67

 

[Snotty]

Thanks! Unfortunately only a lien packet so wish me luck with that process.
I agree it's a beautiful car. I'm a little intimidated by the prospect of cutting into the body to remove the rusty spots and trying my hand at sheet metal forming and welding.

I see you're from California. I'd suggest you get a Title Search done by your local DMV. After 90 days, if there is no problems, you will be issued a new Title in your name. I would also advise to not do anything with it until you get such a title. You don't want the CHP showing up at your door to haul away your stolen car after you've sunk time and money into it. We did so with my Son's Gremlin, and glad we did. During the same time my buddy dropped a newly built 440 into a '69 Road Runner he bought before securing a Clear Title. The CHP did show up at his home and hauled the car off; it was stolen. No, they wouldn't let him remove his 440.

Similar thing happened to my Dad and a Fiat 124 Spyder he had bought. But, in his case, they allowed him the 90 days to get a clear title. Turned out the dash VIN was from a stolen car, but the frame VIN wasn't. When the two numbers became apparent, they allowed him to do the search. The rest of the stolen car was found in a junkyard. The dash was removed. Apparently, it was put into my dad's car, along with the VIN.

Good luck!

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

As I understand it, the fogging oil is more for the last procedure before an engine is put away for long storage times. That's the first place I saw it mentioned. Recently, it was mentioned to do that as a pre-turn-over activity. To put some oil where prior oil had dried-up from in prior times.

Marvel Mystery Oil is not a real lubricant as motor oil. Just an additive that might wick into dry places where lube might have been. Perhaps 2-stroke oil would work just as well? Kerosene/diesel has some base lubricity in it to lube the injection pump and injectors with. Perhaps "off-road" diesel might be best in this respect, to mix with atf? Kerosene dilutes the atf. Atf has more high-load characteristics, by observation. In one respect, the fogging oil could happen first, let it set and penetrate, and then follow that with a mix of good gas and 2-stroke oil so every part of the fuel system would get some "lube action", plus the intake valve stems.

Whatever works . . .

CBODY67

I ended up using ATF just because it was what I had on hand and because after doing the visual inspection of the cylinders and taking off the rocker covers, everything looked pretty decent. I performed the manual rotation test and it spun freely and valves open and close appropriately. Next up I'm going to spin it with using the starter to check for oil pressure and check for spark.

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

I see you're from California. I'd suggest you get a Title Search done by your local DMV. After 90 days, if there is no problems, you will be issued a new Title in your name. I would also advise to not do anything with it until you get such a title. You don't want the CHP showing up at your door to haul away your stolen car after you've sunk time and money into it. We did so with my Son's Gremlin, and glad we did. During the same time my buddy dropped a newly built 440 into a '69 Road Runner he bought before securing a Clear Title. The CHP did show up at his home and hauled the car off; it was stolen. No, they wouldn't let him remove his 440.

Similar thing happened to my Dad and a Fiat 124 Spyder he had bought. But, in his case, they allowed him the 90 days to get a clear title. Turned out the dash VIN was from a stolen car, but the frame VIN wasn't. When the two numbers became apparent, they allowed him to do the search. The rest of the stolen car was found in a junkyard. The dash was removed. Apparently, it was put into my dad's car, along with the VIN.

Good luck!

Thanks for the advice Snotty. I will make sure to do a title search before spending any more on this project. Hopefully no visit from CHP

 

[Timsnewporttwin]

Nice ! Good luck with the car, I also have a 2dr 65 Newport. Mines an automatic and I imagine a 3 speed is very rare. So glad to see it got rescued. My car came from a small, private junkyard in horrible shape. It was spared from the motor hunting crowd only because I bought it.
Seller was so happy I did, he didnt want to see that happen to it. I'd post a picture of it but always get "file too large". At any rate if you never drove one of these, you're in for a treat believe me. Fun, comfy cruiser and you'll arrive in style and likely be the only Chrysler among all the hot rods.

 

[BigWally]

What a great car, good for you! I admire your gumtion. Get that mechanical stuff worked out first before you start thinking about body work, that body doesn't look at all bad. The mechanical stuff will occupy you for a coupla years! lol! (ask me how I know)

 

[cudamark]

Thanks for the advice Snotty. I will make sure to do a title search before spending any more on this project. Hopefully no visit from CHP

If you have lien papers from the tow company, they've already gone through the process of clearing the title, or, they wouldn't have been able to sell it. I've bought hundreds of vehicles that way when I was in business.

 

[Captain Rust Bucket]

Nice ! Good luck with the car, I also have a 2dr 65 Newport. Mines an automatic and I imagine a 3 speed is very rare. So glad to see it got rescued. My car came from a small, private junkyard in horrible shape. It was spared from the motor hunting crowd only because I bought it.
Seller was so happy I did, he didnt want to see that happen to it. I'd post a picture of it but always get "file too large". At any rate if you never drove one of these, you're in for a treat believe me. Fun, comfy cruiser and you'll arrive in style and likely be the only Chrysler among all the hot rods.

Thanks for the support Timsnewporttwin! I need all the luck I can get. I did a little bit of digging into the production numbers and while exact figures are unavailable, it’s likely that only 1–3% of 1965 Chrysler Newports (roughly 1,258–3,773 units) were equipped with manual transmissions (mostly three-speed, with very few four-speed units), and the vast majority (97–99%, or ~122,000–124,510 units) had the Torqueflite automatic. What color is yours? How far into the restoration are you? I'd love to see a picture if you can ever figure out the file size issue. I have never driven a Newport or a column shifted manual transmission, so I'm very excited to get it running and take it for a drive.