You usually just need to stick a screwdriver in behind the u-joint and pop it out.
It's typical... Nothing to worry about.
Chirping sound, and where to get rear drums?
- Thread starter Turbo301
- Start date
It's typical... Nothing to worry about.
Oh... any time you take the driveshaft out and want to save the u-joints, wrap some tape around the caps so they don't fall off. In fact, be careful as it comes free that you don't knock the caps off. Nothing but friction from the grease is holding them on.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Have you removed the rear clamps? U-joints are best dealt with when the propeller-shaft is safely relieved of attachment to the car. Remove the rear U-joint clamps, wiggle the shaft a little to free it from the differential, carefully lower the rear, then with greater care, pull the yoke out of the arse of the transmission, onto a nice soft pillow ideally.
DO NOT "WHACK" anything! Yes, there are C shaped retaining springs in the two roller bushings attaching the U-joint to the transmission yoke. These can be gently tapped out with a thin blade screwdriver as one slides the U-joint bushings one way, then another in the yoke. Use a PRESS to remove the bushings. A moderate sized vice with a socket slightly smaller than the bushing will do for this, but be damned sure to remove the retainers first. Here's a page from my 1966 FSM. which night help you a bit:
Now, here's the rear end:
Mind you, a '73 likely will be a LITTLE different, so I suggest you study the chapter on the Propeller Shaft and Universal Joints from a 1973 FSM. For all I know, they may have switched to paperclips, bubblegum and rubber bands by then, but I suspect they really won't differ MUCH from my more venerable Slabbies.
Turbo301
Active Member
Okay, U-joints are all out! The removal tool I borrowed from our local parts store was a real life-saver!
Thank you, Gerald Morris, for the picture; I did find the retaining rings, but I appreciate very much the schematic and the warning.
One of the sets of shafts on the centre cross has some brinelling marks that you can feel with your finger nail, so I'm hoping that's the source of my squeaking!
Now, looking for replacements: all the ones I'm seeing list 2.125 or 2.625 yoke diameters, which I'm assuming is the distance measured from cross-end-to-cross-end; is that true? If so, mine are 2.875... many list 1.078" cap diameter, which mine are.
Edit: figured it out. They're measuring to the INSIDE of the driveshaft yoke; their wording of "outside yoke diameter" was confusing to me.
Thank you, Gerald Morris, for the picture; I did find the retaining rings, but I appreciate very much the schematic and the warning.
One of the sets of shafts on the centre cross has some brinelling marks that you can feel with your finger nail, so I'm hoping that's the source of my squeaking!
Now, looking for replacements: all the ones I'm seeing list 2.125 or 2.625 yoke diameters, which I'm assuming is the distance measured from cross-end-to-cross-end; is that true? If so, mine are 2.875... many list 1.078" cap diameter, which mine are.
Edit: figured it out. They're measuring to the INSIDE of the driveshaft yoke; their wording of "outside yoke diameter" was confusing to me.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I'll be triple-****-dipped! Somebody made a SPECIALTY TOOL FOR THAT??!! Mine is a Klein flat screwdriver, a 7/16" nutdriver for the rear, and usually some pliers of some sort.....
BRAVO!
Turbo301
Active Member
Okay, I got my new Spicer 5-789X bearings in, which were declared to supposedly fit, and they're a TINY bit too big: the measurement over the cross (minus caps) exceeds the 2.875" of the previous ones by just a touch, preventing the cross from being inserted.
Does anyone have a known-good part number for the 1.078" cap diameter, 2.125" yoke spacing U-joints?
Does anyone have a known-good part number for the 1.078" cap diameter, 2.125" yoke spacing U-joints?
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
That's quite TERRIBLE! A TINY bit too big is ENTIRELY TOO BIG! Well, damn them! Let me look a bit for you then....
Try this: For 1968-1974 Plymouth Fury I Universal Joint Rear Shaft All Joints 53582WY 1969 | eBay for the rear.
How much too big? 7260 is the number I've used, but I looked and it looks like your Spicer U-joint crosses to it,
The seals may need to be compressed a little to fit.
I don't know if any of this will help:
U-Joint cap size (1.063 vs 1.078 vs 1.125) ?!
I don't know if this is a year-thing, or Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth thing, or Canada vs US thing, but when looking at rockauto for ujoints for my '67 Canadian Monaco that came with poly 318, RA is listing ujoints with cap diameters of 1.063, 1.078, and 1.125 inches. A year+ ago when acquiring...
www.forcbodiesonly.com
Turbo301
Active Member
Have you used those before to confirm they fit? 'Cause no manufacturer provides the length-over-cross dimension, which is what was off on my Spicer parts. They still list 1.078" diameter for the cap, and 2.125" for the yoke span, but the actual cross inside was too long. Just bizarre.
That does help; it helps to confirm that the Moog 315Gs are likely to fit, though confirmation that someone has successfully installed them in a 2.125" yoke gap would be even more helpful
.Well, kinda: it's one of these:
canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oemtools-ball-u-joint-press-set-for-removal-replacement-6-pc-77023-1250043p.1250043.html?utm_content=shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1525783089&gbraid=0AAAAADojZpiO1yN7DXeE1ifpESSuGNdyJ&gclid=CjwKCAjw_fnFBhB0EiwAH_MfZlYNa2fopuskJQtNNHTJshb2h4BGgV9_tYW5zSrIrPMkUE_QQJwwAxoCAooQAvD_BwE#store=130
It certainly beats wailing on it with a hammer and drift!
It might be necessary to know what case you have? 741 (not likely) vs 742 vs 489?
The following taken from here:
Universal Joint Yokes
The 8-3/4″ axle was offered with two size cross & roller style universal joint. These are referred to as the ‘7260’ (2-1/8″ yoke ID) and the ‘7290’ (2-5/8″ yoke ID). Most Imperials and some C-bodies used a different universal joint. The ‘1330’ type joint was used on Imperials and others with a constant velocity joint. The ‘1330’ uses outside snap rings instead of the inside snap rings used by the ‘7269’ and ‘7290’. The cap diameter for the ‘7260’ is 1.078″. The cap diameter for the ‘7290’ is 1.126″. The ‘1330’ style joint cap diameter is 1.063″.
There are four different yokes that have been used with the 8-3/4″ axle for the ‘7260’ and ‘7290’ style universal joints. The ‘741’/’742′ assemblies used a coarse spline (10 splines) drive pinion. Most of the aftermarket gears also use this coarse spline yoke mount. There is a small yoke for the ‘7260’ and a larger one for the ‘7290’. The ‘489’ assembly used a fine spline (29 splines) yoke. Note: during the phase-in period of 69-71 for the ‘489’ unit, there were several permutations of pinion size and yoke availability. 69-70 ‘489’ units may be equipped with a coarse (10) spline pinion, particularly for the ‘7290’. There are two yokes for the ‘7260’ and ‘7290’ universal joints with fine (29) splines. Two additional yokes were used for the ‘1330’ style universal joint in constant velocity applications, one for 10 splines and one for 29 splines.
The following taken from here:
Guide to the Chrysler 8-3/4″ rear axle
Please note that this page was copied in its entirety from AUTO HOBBY DIGEST The writers of this page really did some digging to be this thorough, and they deserve all the credit in the world for i…
www.mopar.nl
Universal Joint Yokes
The 8-3/4″ axle was offered with two size cross & roller style universal joint. These are referred to as the ‘7260’ (2-1/8″ yoke ID) and the ‘7290’ (2-5/8″ yoke ID). Most Imperials and some C-bodies used a different universal joint. The ‘1330’ type joint was used on Imperials and others with a constant velocity joint. The ‘1330’ uses outside snap rings instead of the inside snap rings used by the ‘7269’ and ‘7290’. The cap diameter for the ‘7260’ is 1.078″. The cap diameter for the ‘7290’ is 1.126″. The ‘1330’ style joint cap diameter is 1.063″.
There are four different yokes that have been used with the 8-3/4″ axle for the ‘7260’ and ‘7290’ style universal joints. The ‘741’/’742′ assemblies used a coarse spline (10 splines) drive pinion. Most of the aftermarket gears also use this coarse spline yoke mount. There is a small yoke for the ‘7260’ and a larger one for the ‘7290’. The ‘489’ assembly used a fine spline (29 splines) yoke. Note: during the phase-in period of 69-71 for the ‘489’ unit, there were several permutations of pinion size and yoke availability. 69-70 ‘489’ units may be equipped with a coarse (10) spline pinion, particularly for the ‘7290’. There are two yokes for the ‘7260’ and ‘7290’ universal joints with fine (29) splines. Two additional yokes were used for the ‘1330’ style universal joint in constant velocity applications, one for 10 splines and one for 29 splines.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I've used those for mine, w it's 742 rear end case, and the front and back having the same sized U joints, but mine is a '68, so this won't help you for your transmission yoke, though the vendor claims this one is universal to all up through 1978 in the rear. IDK, given your difficulties.... Your best bet now likely will be to go to NAPA or some other store, where you can RETURN anything that doesn't work for you. I've horded up enough U joints for Gertrude for a decade or 2, but I stick with the Slabbies, for their simplicity.
That does help; it helps to confirm that the Moog 315Gs are likely to fit, though confirmation that someone has successfully installed them in a 2.125" yoke gap would be even more helpful
The 315s should be fine for the rear, for sure. That front one, I can't tell you about.
Brother, if I have one stick, I take it to my 20 ton press, though I've never had a U joint stick on me thus. Good to know I reckon.
Turbo301
Active Member
Yeah, I'll be hitting-up my local CarQuest today!
The front and rear are the same on my car.
When you replace the u joints, don't use the greasable type. Use the non greasable, they will last a long time.
Turbo301
Active Member
Why wouldn't greasable also last a long time? In fact, with the ability evict old grease and debris and replace it with new stuff, wouldn't greasable be better? Keep in mind this car never sees rain or snow.
Turbo301
Active Member
Okay, all, now I'm in trouble: I checked the dimensions of the Moog 315G and they are the same as that Spicer one! Measurement over the cross (no endcaps) was about 2.96", while mine are 2.875". The distance between retaining rings also seems slightly bigger than the 2.125" they suggest.
I'll call Moog's tech support line tomorrow (too late now), but in the meantime, if anyone knows of a known-good part number, please let me know!
I'll call Moog's tech support line tomorrow (too late now), but in the meantime, if anyone knows of a known-good part number, please let me know!
The non greasable are good for 100000 miles, have a tighter seal and are a solid design, the greasable joints biggest problem is that they don't get greased regular as they should, as you have found even if you wanted to grease it you were not able to. You may want to do it, and if you hand the work off to anyone else it won't get done, I bet that there would be a time or two when your under the car and find that the grease gun in hand doesn't fit, you say" I'll get it next time". The greasable joints are weaker from the drilled grease tubes. I stick with the type of joints that came with the car. Solid non greasable.
Turbo301
Active Member
Mmm, I'm not inclined to believe that the seals are any better, having a greasable and non-greasable of the same U-joint right in front of me. And the body isn't going to be the structural limiting factor of the joints. The ability to flush-out contaminants and used-up grease is a benefit, IMO. There's a reason in aerospace we get to re-lubricate parts after lifetime testing, to enable the parts to continue through fatigue testing. I'd like the same life-extending capabilities from my car parts if possible.
Anyway, right now I'll take ANY U-joint that will fit! Since the Moog 315Gs don't, I'm lost... here's hoping their tech department can help tomorrow!
Turbo301
Active Member
It looks like I need something like a Meritor CP1306-1X. It has all the right dimensions. Anyone know about equivalent parts?
Edit: I found a cross-reference that SKF part number UJ317 is equivalent. I can get those locally! I'll let you know how it turns out...
Edit: I found a cross-reference that SKF part number UJ317 is equivalent. I can get those locally! I'll let you know how it turns out...
Last edited:
This seems to be on-topic:
Some speculation that the yoke might have been bent, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I'm going to measure the old joints I took out of my '67 Monaco, and double-check the boxes the new joints came in. Maybe go under the car and see what I can measure. This whole thing is curious.
Also - I'm thinking you might have to put the joint in a vice - squeeze the cups a little and see if the retainers move and come to the right measurement. ?
Correct Front U Joint in Engine, Transmission & Rear End
Working on an AAR Cuda, front U Joint should be a 7260, but everyone I've bought is about 1/16" too wide between the clips....Does anybody have the co
forum.e-bodies.org
Some speculation that the yoke might have been bent, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I'm going to measure the old joints I took out of my '67 Monaco, and double-check the boxes the new joints came in. Maybe go under the car and see what I can measure. This whole thing is curious.
Also - I'm thinking you might have to put the joint in a vice - squeeze the cups a little and see if the retainers move and come to the right measurement. ?
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