Never seen a 67 Fury with a full 360° horn ring, that's pretty cool. The RV2 compressor is pretty cool, it's basically a V2 engine on top of a V8 engine lol.
mymopar.com has service manuals for these, the best resource you can get besides decades of hands-on experience from the guys on this forum.
Electrical wise, get a headlight relay harness, either buy a premade one or make it yourself. That takes a HUGE load off your 50+ year old wiring, since it's no longer trying to get up into the dash, through the headlight switch, then back down out into the headlights. You'll also notice a significant improvement in light output, even with stock sealed beams. This also takes a huge load off the high beam foot switch; mine was already slightly melted at one of the wire terminals because of that.
Speaking of the headlight switch, take the dimmer dial off it and give the contacts on all parts a good clean with some 400 grit sandpaper, particularly the one that rubs on the dimmer dial coil. It's probably got a lot of corrosion from all the power running through it.
If you plan on driving this car beyond weekends or sunday cruises I strongly recommend doing the bulkhead bypass - the power feed terminals that go from the battery to there, and the alternator to there, are undersized for the amount of current that goes through them, and can eventually burn up and melt the connector. Best to replace it all with 10 gauge wiring at a minimum (fatter wires if you're going to add lots of/heavy electrical stuff). You'll probably stumble upon the ammeter bypass mod, some of that info applies to our cars, but the ammeter in Chrysler passenger cars is more than capable of handling a lot of current...it's just the bulkhead connector that's the real problem. Cleaning up the terminals can get you by but better to just bypass those puny terminals.
The next suggestion is replacing the gauges' factory mechanical voltage limiter with a solid state one. The mechanical limiter limits the 12 volts down to 5 that the gauges need but it can fail in a few ways, one of them being that it just lets the full 12 volts go into your gauges frying everything. RTE sell a bunch if you can't make your own, not cheap but they're very well built. I've got one in my car and it's great.
If you ever want to upgrade to electronic ignition and are still rocking the external voltage regulator in the engine bay, replace that with a solid state one too if it's still mechanical - electronic ignition doesn't like voltage fluctuations and the solid state electronics will provide a much steadier flow of power.
If you hate glass fuses you might want to look into flexfuse converters that allow you to stick the more modern blade fuses into glass fuse slots, but this is a questionable mod as they're frigging expensive. There apparently used to be a predecessor called converta-fuse but it seems like the company that made them only did so for five years, from 2013-18.
After watching Uncle Tony's video on drum brake rebuild tricks I actually don't mind them at all now - in fact I don't even know how to use those drum brake spring pliers to get the return springs back on - only way I know how is a screwdriver sitting on the spring anchor as a fulcrum, then pulling the handle towards and over it, and the spring slips right on. Removing them I still need that tool you twist though. Get a good one that has the little groove in it that the spring sits in and acts as a cam, the cheaper ones don't have that and it's much more annoying.
OE disc brake conversions using the 72-onwards spindles would be the best, but I converted the front brakes on mine to disc brakes with the ECI brake kit. Some people don't like it using GM parts (the calipers are from a 78-81 firebird) but they open up a lot of pad options and service parts are very easy to get a hold of as they were used in so many vehicles for several decades, so if you're concerned about that I'd go with that. The instructions also contain a list of part numbers for cross referencing too.
The main reason I converted to discs though was because I do intend to drive it hard, and up and down mountains so drums would be a problem. If you're just driving around town front drums are more than adequate. Drums actually stop quicker than discs (assuming the tyres aren't locked up) but they suck at heat dissipation.
If you don't like the numbness and disconnectedness of the factory steering, Firm Feel does OEM, stage 1, 2 and 3 upgrades. OEM is just refurbishing your box, stage 1 is firmer than the cop car boxes, stage 2 is firmer still, and stage 3 even more so. If you want to go even further, borgeson also has a unit that replaces it with a much lighter one and judging by what the A and B body owners who have this box say, the general consensus is that it's as close as it gets to hydraulic rack and pinion. None of these upgrades are cheap but again, it's personal preference.
