Just bought a 78 New Yorker

[Mr C]

Another Formal factoid: The double wide trim to cover the skirts on 78NYBs is "Newport" stuff. The Imperial/ NYB wheel opening trim is the narrow, more refined look.

But you probably already knew that...

 

[commando1]

you probably already knew that...

No,actually ...lol

 

[69CoronetRT]

Another Formal factoid: The double wide trim to cover the skirts on 78NYBs is "Newport" stuff. The Imperial/ NYB wheel opening trim is the narrow, more refined look.

But you probably already knew that...

Trying to learn something here....are we talking the molding listed as 10-7-14 on the three pictures?

 

[Hunny Bunny]

WOW WHAT A LOVELY LADY!!!

Reminds me of the 2D 75 Ralley Sport package I lost to an arsonist in S.F.

 

[commando1]

WOW WHAT A LOVELY LADY!!!

Reminds me of the 2D 75 Ralley Sport package I lost to an arsonist in S.F.

Welcome.. Nice car

 

[6PKRTSE]

Nice score. I run my 74 with and without the fender skirts. Depending on my mood.

 

[Mr C]

Trying to learn something here....are we talking the molding listed as 10-7-14 on the three pictures?

View attachment 669282

I am referring to trim pieces no. 1 in the diagrams and the piece that is not in those diagrams that was used around the rear wheel opening on non-skirt Chrysler Formals.

These pieces...double wide with black paint separating the chrome. Newport trim seen only on Newports 74-77. The Newport trim was used on the non-skirt 78 NYBs.

All Chrysler Formals that had no skirts got Newport trim.

All Chrysler Formal skirts had the thin "Imperial" trim...even if they were on a Newport:

with the brief exception of the 74-75 NY skirts which had the broad stainless treatment. I don't have a close up of a skirt only, but you get the idea:

 

[commando1]

ooomph. That triple Burgundy got a rise out of me

 

[CleverUserName]

Very nice find. I have a 1978 NYer Brougham that I have been working on for several years if you have any questions. My major project was to replaced the Lean Burn system with an Edelbrock carb and an electronic ignition.

As for the power windows, other than an electrical issue, it may be the grease in the window motors is preventing movement. Look on this site for instructions - comments on how to remove the power window motors and replace the lubricant - grease in the motor / gear housing. I had to do that for all four of my windows and replace the plastic gear in one of them.

If you need assistance with with the windshield wiper plastic cam to a metal fabricated fix, I posted a thread awhile ago with instructions.

Just around the corner from you here in IL.

Steve

I’m new to the forum, not sure how to navigate. I have a 1978 New Yorker Brougham and I am trying to remove pass front door motor ( I believe the plastic gears are in need of replacement) My regulator and motor assembly were held in with crush style rivets, I have drilled them out and the assembly is loose inside the door, but I can’t figure out how to get the little plastic out of the guide channels in order to remove the assembly? Is there a trick? I have got the one bottom roller free but the two uppers won’t come free. Do I need to remove the glass, or is there a way to release them that I can’t figure out?

 

[Sport Fury 67]

The first thing I would recommend it buying a "Shop Manual" for your model make and year. You can find them on-line in digital or paperback format. This really assisted me in understanding how to fix components and if there are any hazards and safety issues. The window glass is very heavy, so the window mechanism has a very strong coil spring to assist the electric motor. It is critical you secure this "X" shaped assembly BEFORE you start to remove the electric motor assembly as it will cut and maim you if your not careful. Lots of sharp edges on those metal parts.

Check out this video as a general understanding.

Hope this helps. Remember, while in there, clean off all your tracks and rollers - then re-lubricate them. The widow will work like new. Also clean out any junk in the bottom of the door and check if the drain holes (if any) are clear. If your inner door plastic is in bad shape, cut and new out of fresh plastic. This keeps all water and moisture away from your door panels.

I’m new to the forum, not sure how to navigate. I have a 1978 New Yorker Brougham and I am trying to remove pass front door motor ( I believe the plastic gears are in need of replacement) My regulator and motor assembly were held in with crush style rivets, I have drilled them out and the assembly is loose inside the door, but I can’t figure out how to get the little plastic out of the guide channels in order to remove the assembly? Is there a trick? I have got the one bottom roller free but the two uppers won’t come free. Do I need to remove the glass, or is there a way to release them that I can’t figure ou

 

[CleverUserName]

Thanks for the reply. I had watched this video (the link you sent) already and I have the original shop manual for the car. In all the videos I can find, including the link you sent, nobody seems to explain how to release the guide wheels from the track so I can get the assembly out of the door. I can probably unbolt the motor from the assembly while still inside the door (without removing the X shaped regulator) however because it’s spring loaded I don’t think this seems like a good idea. I was just hoping someone might have done this particular job and might have some specific insight into this specific model (1978 New Yorker) on how to manoeuvre the assembly to get the guide wheels off the tracks. There are screws that run through the guides that prevent the guide wheels from clearing and coming out the end of the track . I will keep fiddling with it and hopefully I can figure it out.

The first thing I would recommend it buying a "Shop Manual" for your model make and year. You can find them on-line in digital or paperback format. This really assisted me in understanding how to fix components and if there are any hazards and safety issues. The window glass is very heavy, so the window mechanism has a very strong coil spring to assist the electric motor. It is critical you secure this "X" shaped assembly BEFORE you start to remove the electric motor assembly as it will cut and maim you if your not careful. Lots of sharp edges on those metal parts.

Check out this video as a general understanding.

Hope this helps. Remember, while in there, clean off all your tracks and rollers - then re-lubricate them. The widow will work like new. Also clean out any junk in the bottom of the door and check if the drain holes (if any) are clear. If your inner door plastic is in bad shape, cut and new out of fresh plastic. This keeps all water and moisture away from your door panels.