Best oil after breaking cam in

mrzods13

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Well I am sure this will stir some debating up. Broke in the cam what is the best oil to use after break in. Can I just empty and replace with new comp cams break in oil? They sell a muscle car oil. There are so many different opinions out there these days but I want my can to last as long as possible.
 
I use Brad Penn straight 40 weight. Since most of us don't drive these cars in but one season we don't need to run a multi viscosity oil. Back when these cars were built there wasn't even multi viscosity available and you would change your oil when the seasons changed, lighter weights in the cold months. Brad Penn is pricy but it's the ****!
 
How often do you start your car since 40W takes forever and a day to get moving in an engine.
 
Fires right up when cold it's after it gets hot that it gives the starter a workout but that's got nothing to do with oil. Driven daily since the last oil change.
 
what about valvoline racing vr1 or comp cams muscle car oil
 
My engine builder highly recommended the Valvoline vr1 oil it has very high zinc content and keeps the cam from going flat. I've been running 20w/50 in my built 440 since I drained the break-in oil. Its a great product!!


what about valvoline racing vr1 or comp cams muscle car oil
 
My engine builder highly recommended the Valvoline vr1 oil it has very high zinc content and keeps the cam from going flat. I've been running 20w/50 in my built 440 since I drained the break-in oil. Its a great product!!

Another vote for the VR1 racing oil. This is what was recommend from a engine rebuilder to me, through my local Mopar expert. The good part is you can go down to Auto Zone or the like, and buy it.
 
Brad Penn here too.

A good friend that builds engines for a couple of the FAST drag cars uses it exclusively and swears by it.
 
I drive over to Mancini's to buy it, $75 a case for single weight.
 
Brad Penn or valvoline vr1 have used both in street cars with stiffer than stock valve springs one has over 10,000 mi on it. Mobile one 15/50 synthetic also available at auto zone works also even more pricey though and the benefits of synthetic don't really apply to our old cars IMO
 
I have a friend that is a dealer that gives me a good price or I can buy it through the oil and lube company where my oldest son works. I get the "family" discount and that's a little cheaper, but they don't always have it in stock.
 
Walmart and a bottle of anybody's "break in" oil.
Break it in properly for 500 mi.
Drain it.
More Walmart.
 
would 10w30 work for vr1 or stick with 20w50

You would have to special order the 10w30 probably. My local stores only carry 20w50. My friend who is a Mopar guy and mechanic said he runs the 10w30, but 20w50 is a close second in his opinion. He runs the 10w30 VR1 in his Super B Hemi since day one of the build. It has been several years since the rebuild and he races it.
 
VR1 10W-30 is definitely special order as I use it in the Cougar. The Mustang uses 10W-30 Quaker State Deft and the other three use Delo or Rotella 15W-40.
 
I guess it may depend on where you live. I mean, if you live in a really hot climate, you may need to use 10W-40 or 20W-50. I don't need it where I live though. I have always used 10W-30 in my classics and have never had any problems because of it. However, around here, the average summer temps are between 65 F (18 C) and 90 F (32 C). It's rare for the temp to go above 95 and it almost never goes above 100 F. I drive my classics into mid-October, when daytime highs are usually around 60 F and nighttime temps can make me run the heater on cool evening cruises. I don't have concerns about viscosity, but do have some concerns about the additives, or lack of them, in todays oils. I do stay with well known, name brand oils and have been adding Comp Cams break-in lube to my oil changes in my 383 (and my 390).


As I'm posting this, it's 67 F (19 C) outside. :)
 
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