Best oil after breaking cam in

[tbm3fan]

I guess it may depend on where you live. I mean, if you live in a really hot climate, you may need to use 10W-40 or 20W-50. I don't need it where I live though. I have always used 10W-30 in my classics and have never had any problems because of it. However, around here, the average summer temps are between 65 F (18 C) and 90 F (32 C). It's rare for the temp to go above 95 and it almost never goes above 100 F. I drive my classics into mid-October, when daytime highs are usually around 60 F and nighttime temps can make me run the heater on cool evening cruises. I don't have concerns about viscosity, but do have some concerns about the additives, or lack of them, in todays oils. I do stay with well known, name brand oils and have been adding Comp Cams break-in lube to my oil changes in my 383 (and my 390).


As I'm posting this, it's 67 F (19 C) outside.

I would love to have 5W-__, in all cars. Damage occurs on start up and the thinner the better on the bearings especially if you start every few weeks. ZDP doesn't worry me too much because in the 50's, when camshafts were spalling, they put 0.08% in. In the 60's engines ran hotter and the oil companies needed an anti-oxidant to keep the oil from becoming too thick. There weren't many back then so the easiest was more ZDP and they moved it up to 0.12-0.14% Today there are more and better anti-oxidants so the extra ZDP could be removed because of that and now it is back down to 0.08% as it was in the 50's when it all started.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

There is no substitute for zddp it is specifically added for sliding non pressurized surfaces it protects mostly during low speed and start up when not a lot of oil is splashing around, it is built up during normal running rpms it is worn away at less than that operating speed. This is why you break the cam in at 2000+ rpm. Now a well broken in engine with wimpy stock well heat cycled springs, sure Wal-Mart and 10-30 will work, new cam and new springs no zddp build up on the new parts, and detergent packages that attack zddp and break it down, headed down a path of lobe destruction or at least too risky a gamble with todays oils.

 

[banatello]

Has anybody used or heard of these oils ?

http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/

http://cen-pe-co.com.cpanel003.corecommhosting.com/

 

[rexus31]

I run standard Valvoline 10w30 with a bottle of ZDDP added.

http://www.eastwood.com/zddp-oil-additive.html

 

[66furywagon]

i run 10w40 val
and a bottle comp cams add
in my duster and new yorker

 

[66SportFury]

I run Brad Penn 20w50 in the 440.

 

[BJS racing]

I run Valvoline VR1 either 40 or 50 depending on which car and engine. The tired ones I run 50 in. Engines I just built I run 40 in. Never had any troubles out of any of mine with it.

 

[1978 NYB]

Well, it depends....

If it's an 8:1 smogger engine. I would run 10W30 or 10W40 Brad Penn if you can get it locally or conventional oil with the Rislone ZDDP additive that you can get anywhere, APP, AZ, etc. I wouldn't run 40WT or 20W50 in one of these smogger motors.

 

[commando1]

There's this stuff now. Wonder who makes it for them.

 

[mrzods13]

Well ran into a snag yesterday but good thing I had extra filters. For some reason only purolator oil filters fit on my newport, they screw on with ease, the fram hp1 and car quest brand do not fit, they start to screw on and stop.. Could it be because it was 2 bbl before. By the way car starts up and runs much better after putting the vr-1 in it.

 

[BJS racing]

For one I would NEVER run a fram. I have built a couple of engines for people and they supplied them and I could not get oil pressure with a fram on the car. Change the filter and boom oil pressure. I use Wix for everything. Napa filters are also wix filters. Fwiw.

 

[mrzods13]

Yea the oil pressure is even better now, it was good before but great now, I just don't get why that filter fits and the car quest one didn't, I don't like fram either I just thought I had to use the racing filter with the vr-1. I will buy a wix next time and see if it screws on.

 

[66SportFury]

For one I would NEVER run a fram. I have built a couple of engines for people and they supplied them and I could not get oil pressure with a fram on the car. Change the filter and boom oil pressure. I use Wix for everything. Napa filters are also wix filters. Fwiw.

I agree. Fram is bad. I've always used Hastings or Wix,.but mostly Hastings and I run the longer ones LF115. Motorcraft # FL1A if anyone needs a cross number.

 

[Wildaugust]

Just curious. What is the general opinion of Quaker State oil filters?

 

[flyinbrick68]

carquest premium are wix filters also!

 

[BJS racing]

Just curious. What is the general opinion of Quaker State oil filters?

I believe they are frams as well. I haven't used them and don't know anyone that does. Like John said hastings or wix is all I use anymore. Never had a problem out of either one.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

It depends on who makes them, the oil companies just have their name on someone's filter,for that matter they probably put their name on others oil, had to tell anymore Quaker state and Penzoil used to be refined in Rouseville Pa. right down the road from Titusville Pa. the birthplace of the oil industry btw, both names are based in Texas now and refined who knows where

 

[1978 NYB]

I use Mopar filters...AAP has them on the shelf in every store. M0-090.....the 090 is the last 3 numbers of the actual Mopar Part Number.

 

[66furywagon]

fram filters suck