Testing heater box actuators with vacum

[Wonderwagon]

1) I would like to bench test the actuators on my 69 Plymouth Fury with AC. Can this be done without breaking the bank buying a vacum pump and the minimal gauge set up. The test procedure requires 8 inches of vacum.

Rebuilding my box during to the shops lack of testing and cleaning the condenser and heater core. They both tested good and were cleaned by a radiator shop. Thoughts suggestions. They were provided seals from DMT, unfortunately they destroyed the rear mounting studs. This has been replaced, hopping to salvage the new seals.
2) There appears to be 1/4 x 1/4" inch open cell foam seals. Looks like regular hardware store door/ window seals. Read through the heater box threads again didn't see this jumping out ar me.

 

[Wonderwagon]

Pic didn't upload

 

[Toolmanmike]

All you would probably need is one of these. I can't believe they are so cheap. Hand-Held Vacuum Pump Pressure Tester Car Brake Fluid Bleeder Bleeding Tool Set | eBay

 

[MONC440]

I just tested all of mine with a HF brake bleed hand pump. Has a gauge on it so you know how much vacuum you are applying. FYI mine took way more than 8 inches of vacuum to move the first time after that they moved easily. Another thing is the defrost and heat/vent door works together meaning when I tested each one separately it didn’t seem to be working correctly. So I then hooked up the vacuum switch. Hook the vacuum pump to the hose that supplies vacuum to the switch. Pushed the defrost button, pump the gauge and it worked, pressed the heat button, pump gauge and it worked, then tested the a/c vent the same way. Attached are some pictures that helped me.

 

[Wonderwagon]

New question, thanks for the previous replies.

The door/ diverted for the windshield defroster. Should this open all the way? From closed to open there is only about a 1/4" movement. There is foam on the inside and a layer on the outside, I didn't apply this, is this factory or part of the rebuild kit? This seems to impede the doors ability to fully open.

Last two pictures are of the door, side with foam faces to the inside of the box the other, with half the foam would face out towards the windshield defroster vent. The threaded end has to go out to the linkage, so it cannot be reversed. I didn't take a photo and didn't checkthe operational closed to maximum prior to disassemble to stabilize the cracks around the resistor speed control for the blower

 

[Wonderwagon]

On the bench, the air conditioning door actuator can be tested. It appears to be a push/ pull apply vacuum on one hose the rod extends, the other it retracts. The heat -defroster door actuator as reported seems to fail, however when both actuators are connected into the cars vacuum system. This door operates as intended. Is there any way to bench test this actuator, the one withbthe paint mark on it?

 

[Wonderwagon]

If you pull about 10-15 in of vacuum, the defrost-heat actuator will open, releasing the vacuum, will cause the door to slowly start to close and pressurizing the actuator will full close it. Pulling a vacuum on bottom of the AC actuator will make the AC door fully open and Pulling a vacuum on the top of the actuator (control rod side) will close the door(when the vacuum equalizes with the air it will open). You have assist the heater defrost door to the open position to emulate that door being open. Thoughts? It appears to me both actuators are functioning and tge doors are hitting their positions.

Vacuum pump by the defrost-heat door is actuating it. Other picture that appears at the bottom is actuating the AC door.

 

[Wonderwagon]

Further question, once the heater box is closed up, are the gaskets tested for leakage by pouring some water in and checking the seals for leaks. With the water exiting out the drains?