no dash lights '67 NewYorker

[67nykr]

I have a '67 NewYorker. The dash lights quit working, not sure when or what might have caused it. No smoke or melted wires (that I'm aware of). I have no power at the instrument panel fuse, on either side, with or without the headlights turned on and with or without the ignition turned on. The headlight switch is the rocker style with a thumb wheel dimmer. Any ideas where to start?? I'd rather rebuild an engine than deal with electrical issues!

 

[Big_John]

Twist the dash dimmer back and forth a bunch of times and see what happens. Sometimes the rheostat gets dirty.

 

[Pete Kaczmarski]

And purchase a can of spray "Electrical Contact Cleaner" and spray liberally on the electrical contact of the switch. Do not use anything else, as years ago, my friend learned the hard way and caused an electrical fire.

 

[live4theking]

Are these the only lights that are not working? What about your map light and dome light?

 

[67nykr]

Map and dome lights both work. Going to try the electrical cleaner.

 

[67nykr]

So I my dimmer switch is toast. The contact fell off the arm (it's still on in the photo). Had the cluster almost out tonight, I don't see any burnt or melted wires. Still don't know why I have no power on either side of the fuse? Time to study the wiring diagram. Thoughts of a work around? Cutting the wires to each lamp and running them through a fused ignition circuit. Dash lights on if the car is running.

 

[Big_John]

FCBO member @Devinism may be able to rebuild that switch.

 

[Devinism]

You MAY have 2 or more issues.
The 1967 (ONLY) headlight switch may need rebuilding? They get corrosion internally.
The dimmer switch for sure needs rebuilding.

Check to see if the pink wire leading into the headlight switch has power (it should be hot at all times).

Is it just the dash lights that are inop? The tail and parking lights are on the same circuit, so check those too.

 

[67nykr]

It's just the dash lights. I'm pretty sure all other lights work. I'll have to double check the park and taillights. And check the pink wire.

 

[3175375]

FCBO member @Devinism may be able to rebuild that switch.

He offers rebuilt switches too. As me how I know. ;^)

 

[67nykr]

Update. I have constat power to the pink wire. I took the dimmer switch apart and cleaned it up. One end of the spring was broken. I cut it and reconnected it. Ohmed the switch and all seemed okay. Still no dash lights. So I did a work around and cut the wires and connected them all to ignition power. If the key is on, I have dash lights. I also installed a tach and replaced the coil (it was leaking). Back driving it to work again!

 

[Devinism]

One end of the spring was broken.

That's from something shorting out and melting the rheostat (spring). Hopefully you haven't bypassed your fuse.

 

[Gerald Morris]

So I my dimmer switch is toast. The contact fell off the arm (it's still on in the photo). Had the cluster almost out tonight, I don't see any burnt or melted wires. Still don't know why I have no power on either side of the fuse? Time to study the wiring diagram. Thoughts of a work around? Cutting the wires to each lamp and running them through a fused ignition circuit. Dash lights on if the car is running.

View attachment 732607

That dimmer switch can be cleaned, and put back in use. The wiper tab can be replaced, and soldered back onto the wiper. I've done just that with one in our '68. The Devin Dude is The Man for restoring these old switches for folks on this Forum, and if I ever get a problem beyond my Poor Man's Repair Methods, then I'll go to Devin. One can even use a piece of solid wire to make a new wiper for the rheostat. Your other option would be to replace the switch, and again, Devin is The Man for most folks here.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Update. I have constat power to the pink wire. I took the dimmer switch apart and cleaned it up. One end of the spring was broken. I cut it and reconnected it. Ohmed the switch and all seemed okay. Still no dash lights. So I did a work around and cut the wires and connected them all to ignition power. If the key is on, I have dash lights. I also installed a tach and replaced the coil (it was leaking). Back driving it to work again!

You REALLY need to restore the dash light circuit to the BATTERY side of your power supply! Leaving them on the Ignition switch will load the ignition circuit down too much, and you will regret it. Glad you found The Pink Wire! THAT one SHOULD be fed from the Battery side of the fusebox. Be DAMNED SURE you have some sort of FUSE or BREAKER PROTECTING THIS AND EVERY OTHER CIRCUIT IN THAT DASH! Turning off the ignition as smoke billows out of the dash might remove the overcurrent, or NOT, as when wires burn their insulation, MORE SHORT CIRCUITS OCCUR.

Take care, stick to the wiring diagram provided in the FSM for now. The fact that your old coil had heated up to a point of forcing hot askarel out worries me a mite....

 

[67nykr]

I did put an inline fuse in (5 amp) the original is a 4 amp. All other circuits are fused as originally designed. The coil was the original from 1967, the outside was damp. It was replaced as a precaution due to age as much as anything. Safe travels.

 

[Captainfury]

I have a '67 NewYorker. The dash lights quit working, not sure when or what might have caused it. No smoke or melted wires (that I'm aware of). I have no power at the instrument panel fuse, on either side, with or without the headlights turned on and with or without the ignition turned on. The headlight switch is the rocker style with a thumb wheel dimmer. Any ideas where to start?? I'd rather rebuild an engine than deal with electrical issues!

It's interesting how different people love different aspects of cars- id love to deal with electrical issues all day, than rebuild an engine...