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Minimal tunnel massaging. Just a couple spots on the driver side. There's a few vids on how to cut the housing, and I did a video on some of the points the others seem to be missing. Bell vid

The rubber mount is for a mid 70's chevy truck. Th350 or 400

It's in! Interestingly enough. Originally with the 727 in there, my pinion/tailshaft angle was about .5 degrees off (Tailshaft high) right now I was able to bring it down a little to .1 degree off.

Little more progress. FYI I had Rotator cuff surgery in August....slowest recovery ever, friggin tape measure over my head feels like I'm benching 2 plates. Anyway. There is a mount hole right above the crossmember on the tailshaft housing that I cut off, I'll probably take it down a bit...

Not really sure, been watching his site for a few months and things don't seem to be coming back in stock. That being said I decided to pull the trigger on the fully built Yukon unit.

I've looked. Doing a full build with differential (which is in perpetual backorder) it's a close to a wash.

Anyone ever pull the trigger on one of these? YDAC8.89-355P/L

Assuming flat top pistons and closed chamber heads. If you're at a true static 9.5:1 then you should be able to run 91 octane with a re-curve. Really comes down to cam, jetting and timing at various throttle position and loads. There is no blanket answer though. Octane boosters are...

Got it all prettied up.

Some progress.

Finally getting around to the swap. Unfortunately I had Rotator Cuff surgery 2 months ago so need to recruit help only to get the reality slap. I totally didn't even think about torque converter bolt spacing difference between old/new. New flexplate on order. I'm guessing December will...

Weird. I used one for mine. Must be technique

Full frame is an entirely different (easy) ballgame than anything uni

You'll want to add torque boxes like from the factory as well. Nobody is stopping you, it's your car. Just know that you'll be dealing with some bending and twisting of the chassis until you brace things. This is probably in your future. 70-74 E Body Frame Connector for Dodge Challenger

Go to your local birtbike shop and ask them for a "motorcycle exhaust spring tool" give them your $10 and thank me later.

jumping on this thread. I have a 67 with tilt-scope. I'm rebuilding the steering box so this is the perfect time to refresh the column......but the little bit i'm digging in, the actual switch itself is near unobtainium, and I'm not clear on the GM part that should work. To add, this...

I should start a sniper bootlegging operation....I'm sure that's been done and busted already though.

good question and for sure I wasn't clear. It was the AVS2. I do like the carb, but the Sniper2 just is that much better for a daily driver. Not to mention no more heat soak, I could never totally get rid of it on hot days even with a 1" composite spacer. I'm keeping that eddy around...

Throwing in my 2 cents. I've run Holley/Brawler and Eddy AVS carbs on a few cars and the last 2 I went from a Brawler to Sniper 1 (Not too impressed as it was finicky) and the Fury I went from a 2bbl, to 4bbl AVS then to the Sniper 2. The Sniper 2 is soooo much better. Car starts WAY...

That hole should look like it has a Pin in that hole so you can't see through it and that roller will be on the pin under that hole. the Spring will be like it is on the picture. Can't get much more simple. Takes all of 15 minutes to put them in. No video's of it, just figure it out and...