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On my '65, the handle releases the latch on the outer track & also pulls a wire that runs across and releases the latch on the inner track. There is a flat metal hook that pulls on the middle of the wire to keep it under tension & it attaches to the seat frame with a J bolt to allow adjustment...

I am also thinking of paying the extra $299USD for the stealth head Competition Valve Job Should I do this and is there anything else I should ask them to do while they are at it? thanks!

I was thinking of using this cam CL21-224-4 with the stealth heads. I dont want to have interference problems with the L2315 flat top pistons. The shop said I'll be ok but I need to verify everything. Comp says 68 and up because different lifters. I read here if I go with the matching push rods...

Took a few quick pictures. I'm a bit worried anout this front cam bearing. Is it something to take it back for? $2800 you'd think it would be perfect. I was there all summer. lifter bores look untouched. not sure it thats good or not

There have been a number of similar statements - and it boils down to "factory engineering is best" for these braking systems hands down - at least, that's my opinion. Others may differ, and it's their right to disagree. When you say your 68 has a Midland booster with a disc conversion - is...

Your best bet for shipping would be to ship them to Sumas WA and pick them up yourself. There is a company that receives packages for a nominal fee there. 440 Source can tell you how they package their stuff. Packing, Shipping, Mailing | Sumas, WA | Letterlock Sumas Kevin

I've had no issues with the leed booster to date. I did have to contact them when I installed it to have them send me a different pedal to booster rod that didn't come with the kid(came with the most common 3 lengths of course I needed the 4th option). There was no charge for this rod.

just to throw a shovelfull of poo into the discussion...somewhere in this forum is a thread where the guy was removing the aftermarket conversion , which he hated, and going back to factory discs...I don't recall all the reasons....personally I'd try to find the stock 69-73 setup which we all...

I haven't had a chance to even tear into it yet..... Work travel, and more work travel. Oh, and drive 952 miles in a day to buy a clothes dryer, and a 65 polara, then stop and tour LocuMob's stash of cars! 952 miles, 22 hours. Not sure I am caught up on sleep yet.

It might be a little big, but the carb will only use what it needs. I use a 750 on most everything I have, with an 800 avs 2 ready to go on a 413. I stopped using 600's when my last one was stolen over 20 years ago.

Hello from Minnesota! (@fury fan :poke:) Car looks great the way it is. Be sure to make it to Mopars in the Park in Farmington May 30-June 1 2025.

I was not around when this spot was Played the first time. I was looking way too far west. I thought it may have been somewhere by the Griffith Observatory. Looking forward to the next one.

Does this car still have the convertible top latch receivers? The part at the top of the windshield, not the part on the top itself.

Love it!

anyone?

Go easy on the valve body adjusting (as in, don't start whacking like crazy with a ball peen - 1 or 2 light taps at most) and whatever you do, do NOT put your arm through the inner portion of the steering wheel when you start the car after adjusting it.

Another point of interest with some of these and for sure the last one I bought from auto city is that it was thin. I don't care. My car was a glue in but for a gasketed wndow it might be loose in the rubber. I would also guess that they may Crack from rock chips easier.

The top of the steering gear has a valve body (Pressure assist valve/spool valve) that is held in place by two bolts. The bolt holes on the valve body are slotted so that the valve body can be moved up or down. Moving the valve body will correct the self turning of the steering wheel, this...