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That's interesting. All are way higher than what dude said the 11" would stall, he said 1200-1800, which is wildly low for a 60's unit. Useful information, but is there no factory spec for a production car available? I have the 4 barrel 383, meaning i should have the 10", which along with the...

Does anyone have a primary reference or hard evidence for the stall speed for the 11" converter? Because I don't feel like having Mr. Drum come through the floor, I took the tranny in to the local guy to go to. Primarily for a bolt in sprag, but what the hell rebuilt it while you're in there...

So after much measuring, getting the rear sill exactly level only moved the left side up by about 1/8", leaving much of the original weld holes exposed. Since I had to fab about half of the tub from scratch, it appears I mounted it slightly high. Not ideal but little I can do about it now.

Much better. Came up about 1/2" total. Cleaner fit than when it came apart, frankly.

The fun never ends. Made the rear fascia panel. Now that the rear tang is freed i'll locate it correctly by lining up the drilled out welds, then trim the fascia to suit. Everything is nice and level so far.

Does anyone know what wheels this guy is running in the front? They're exactly what I want for Blue.

OOPS, ALL BONDO. AGAIN. All made from the finest available angle iron from the second most convenient dumpster to hand. And then welded together by an indignant Ray Charles. **** me.

On a stock motor, where the limit on flow is the cam, sure. On a built motor, you cannot do without. Headers are a force multiplier, the power they make is a function of the rest of the motor. They're also really good for milage as the scavanging improves combustion efficiency dramatically. And...

Got some aligning to do but it's back on and out of the weather. I'm sure it'll upset some people but I'm leaving the wheel well stampings off. To save the weight, get the header heat out of the bay better and just to make it easier to work on. Still got em, they'll just be sitting in the...

Back on the ground for the first time with the new everything. Also dropped the tailgate, time to make the sill from scratch.

This side sucked less to do. Front end is done. Found out where all the rear stop goo went. My brand new in 2020 wheel cylinders with maybe 8 hours of use exploded from doing nothing too hard. Cool.

Oh i have new wheel cylinders. I'm just bitching about having to disassemble the entire spindle/hub to remove it. What the hell. Got the right side good, doing the same dance on the left now, it was plugged up solid too. How both cooked at the same time i have no idea. Maybe grandpa had DOT5 in...

quite the opposite, nothing in, nothing out. Seized totally. Got the spindle rebuilt but the new bleeder is too long and hits the hub, not sure how to bleed it presently. It is of course smaller in diameter (!?) and does not interchange with the originals. Cool. I just hope the opposite...

WHY

Alright, looks like the culprit is the wheel cylinders. Emptied the rear drum tank no problem, front one drained a bit but even with the bleeder fully off, nothing ever came out. I still have some new ones from 2020's adventures, but how these spontaniously failed from sitting in the space of a...

No I didn't touch them before the rod run, no time. Put nice new ones on with the nice new stub. Stopped extremely well when i turned the car around to deal with some stuff up front, but a week later during the rod run brakes were junk. The only thing I changed was to plug up the rear brake...

They went in the garbage about a month ago so we'll never know.

That's all that was left. But I never touched them, they would've had to spontaneously collapsed within the space of a week, and they would've both had to have gone at the exact same time. If one was gone the other side would've worked fine. I have replaced everything but the wheel cylinders so...

Yeah that's very helpful, thanks. Splash panel goes on top, and ends where the weather stripping ends. I thought I may have been missing a part that goes into the hinge pocket but no. Any idea how thick the metal is below the fill panel? It's 3/16" angle iron here, but I refuse to believe it...

Can anyone with a wagon take photos of the drip rail panel for me? I don't have the full stamping and I'm not sure how it should be in the far corners.