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guess you answered your own question....yes a 160 themostat will open a lot sooner than a 195...now the next question is "why did it have a 160 ?" many times folks will put in a lower temp thermostat in an attempt to "cure" an overheating issue caused by something else...so you may have an...

went through a similar deal while chasing an overheating problem on my 454 chevy camper....every FLAPS thermostat in a different box was a Motorad...I removed a good new one while troubleshooting and wound up installing a new defective one, the third one worked...boiled them together to find...

my dad had a 62 Ford wagon...390 3 on the tree...back then a lot of folks just didn't trust an automatic for towing

I agree with fusible link...if thats ok get your testlight...check that the large red and black wires that go into and out of the bulkhead connector on the firewall have continuity through it and nothing's melted...then check in and out of the ammeter terminals, and in and out of the ignition switch

he's got some stuff that fits C bodies that he doesn't have listed as such, so having a part number ahead of time is useful...

think the white classic ones were the smaller ones for the A body...not wide enough...Quirey Quality designs in Pa has them listed in their Gary Goers catalog (pdf page 24) but idk if they actually have them in stock

I've read somewhere that REM makes the perforated roof panels but you have to buy them from a REM dealer...and most of those dealers don't bother to list them on their websites...haven't actually searched for them myself so I could be wrong

sorry...hit the shop and the pad's still on it, the cowl's piled a foot deep and the shield hasn't been cleaned since own it (about 15 years...)definitely didn't have time today to attack it

got it if I make it down to the shop today...

eye level shot or down through the windshield?

i have another parts car with the pad off if you need a specific angle

Here's my 68 during paint...should be the same

sometimes I'll google my own poor description and see if it comes up on a forum or vendors site...or search images to see if I can find one of what I want...you could just post a "what is this called"picture here...

welcome to the wonderful world of C Bodies...there really is very little reproduced for our cars and much of what's out there only exists because it also fits the 6 figure models...and half the guys selling those parts don't realize that they interchange....step one is figuring out the factory...

lots of times they are the victims of tow truck operators hooking up to them...they are pretty soft and you can usually bend them back straight...

stupid answer...depends on what year car...most of the stuff out there that fits other mopars and everyone carries don't fit slab sides...i think Quirey Quality in Pa is the only one that makes the slab ones....page 24 of Gary Goers pdf (page itself marked 22)

I'd contact Instrument Services Inc in Illinois...815 316 2921...the kit I put in my 68 23 yrs ago still works

NOT a GM...advance springs and weights are located under the breaker plate and distributor would need to be disassembled to have access to them...if you grab the rotor you should be able to twist it a bit (like maybe 1/4 to 1/2 an inch at the tip) and when released it should spring back to its...

update...used the little vacuum pump...pulled the air out fine...seemed once fluid got into the wheel cylinders it really couldn't pull fluid out the bleeders very well...I think it was sucking air in through the bleeder screw threads...so I really couldn't flush out the amount of fluid that I...

FuryGT on here was asking over 20 grand for his stroker 68 fury...I know it sold but no idea whether he came down in price...oops just saw that he already commented on it...