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Agree, if some valves are stuck open, pull the heads to get a better idea of how much rust you're working with. If the valves hadn't been stuck, and it was just some stuck rings, I had better luck popping things loose by using a pry bar in the starter hole to lever on the ring gear back and...

I used to use Rare Parts in Stockton, Ca. to get ball joints, and pitman arms rebuilt. Their number is 1-800-621-2008. Lyle is the guy I dealt with years ago.

So, you don't have a key to the ignition switch or the doors? If your ignition switch and lock are in good shape, I can key it to match your door cylinders. It would require you to pull all three and mail them to me though. I also have good used '69 only ignition switch/lock assemblies w/key...

There's a spring loaded Allen head bolt on the valve body where you can make that adjustment. You really should have a good manual to explain the procedure though. There are measurements that should be taken at the same time.

If you increase the line pressure, it will firm up your shifts nicely.

On some occasions, disabling an EGR valve can cause exhaust popping on deceleration.....mostly a manual trans thing, but, I've had it happen with an automatic too.

If the studs are spinning in the hub, the hole is bound to be oversize now for a stock stud. Press out the old one(s) and see if you can find an oversize replacement to press in. If not, either weld the stud in place, or get a replacement hub.....which means you will need to find a used one as...

Yes, the wear pattern and extra drum surface look correct. BTW, those brakes are the same as the '65-71 D100 pickups. Sometimes it's easier to find in the catalogs.

I agree with 413, either liquid rubber, or maybe unsolder and shrink tube whatever you can.

This is assuming that someone didn't plug an early Hemi in it. Their dizzy's are in the rear like a small block.

Just don't try and pull on the sheet itself. Grab the springs and pull them away from the paper to release it without damaging the sheet any further. It actually looks in pretty good shape, but, they can be very fragile after all this time.

On any out of the ordinary registration or title change, I like using a private registration business. I have a local one who used to work for the DMV, so, knows all the ins and outs of getting something done properly. They can sometimes avoid problems before they start.

Both Wagner/Lockheed and Bendix show different part numbers for just the drum, so, something must be different. Maybe the stud hole for slip on vs swedged? Slight difference in offset and/or center thickness? I know there were 2-3 different manufacturers through the years. Some drums were cast...

If you have lien papers from the tow company, they've already gone through the process of clearing the title, or, they wouldn't have been able to sell it. I've bought hundreds of vehicles that way when I was in business.

How about show correct Mopar filters? Are they still available? Who makes them, and are they a decent filter? Does anyone make a decal to put over a Wix like they do with batteries?

That '68 Fury 3 PX23 is correct for a Fury 3 fast top. A VIP would be PP23. Thanks for the tour! :thumbsup:

A fluke IMO. Having owned and operated an all Mopar wrecking yard for over 30 years, I never saw a factory wheel break in that fashion. Aftermarket wheels, yes..... especially Cragars, but never a stock steel wheel....even real bent ones from accidents. Weird.

My concern would be the tire clearance next to the springs. A hard corner and the side walls are going to get cut, possibly causing a blowout.

They had them back at least as far as 1963 that I know of.....maybe even earlier.

This water pump/idler belt fits various big blocks without A/C applications (including some police), so, do your own research to verify it will fit yours. Has the early DCPD logo. $45 picked up here in San Diego, or, $69 delivered (including PayPal fees) to a first 48 state U.S. address only. I...