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I don't think those bottom studs were welded in...more like carriage bolts with the square part peened into the track so it didnt fall out

another factor with the 6v stuff is that we were running generators back then so voltage at idle and cruise was usually lower than at high rpm...lights got brighter, directionals and wipers went faster when you revved it up...I had cars where the horn wouldn't blow at idle...think I had some...

the top and bottom of the manual tracks are pretty straight and I imagine the power ones would be too...the tracks nut and bolt to the seat bottom, so it shouldn't be too hard to put some square tubing or channel iron between them with longer hardware...that would probably make it look more...

after chasing some overheating issues on my camper a while ago...Stant no longer exists...every FLAPS thermostat I bought regardless of house brand was a Motorad (Israel based)...the fun part was I removed a good one and installed a defective one as part of my troubleshooting...boiling the old...

update...found another article over at FBBO....looks like they were trying to sell off Autolite, Cardone and Brake Parts Inc (Raybestos etc) and haven't been able to , so they plan to shut those down

does it currently have a compressor on it?

Berryman still sells the one gallon can with the strainer bucket in it but its still like 40 bucks at Autozone etc

that Motive Gear C clip is not used in an 8 3/4 rear...in an 8 3/4 the bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft...those clips are used in the rears where you pull the rear end cover ,remove a pin and the clip goes into a groove cut around the end of the axle to hold the axle into the side gear of...

I looked up my Dr Diff receipt and it only showed the carrier bearings and the clutch kit, so I guess I sourced the Timkin ones I used someplace else...but my notes say they were USA made...maybe they were on a separate receipt, cause thought I got it all from him...the set7 bearing comes with...

those cutouts allow airflow around the port that feeds exhaust under the intake manifold to pre heat it

IF you have a/c, there are 2 rubber hoses that connect the heater core to the ''h" pipe inside the heater box...these may be leaking and not the core itself but the whole box needs to come out to fix them...there is vent housing at the bottom of the box that 2 air distribution hoses come off...

looking at TCP Global's auto paint library for a 65 Chrysler I wonder if they repainted it 66-1 mauve poly? I think the area of the door inside the rubber weatherstrip is the original color...different interior colors were usually on bolt on parts like the dash...I don't think they would bother...

I used HF's Pittsburg branded one...it was half the price of the MiteyVac. worked fine for the actuators...for the whole system I did what the FSM recommended...made a setup with a gauge and a bleed valve, hooked it to my A/C vacuum pump...the bleed valve let me limit the vacuum to 8 lbs ...had...

believe that's FURYGT

my local PPG dealer had formulas for my DD1 mist blue (68)...most body shop supply stores only carry one or 2 lines of paint so you may have to shop around...my Axalta dealer didn't have a formula for it but sometimes its a case of "somebody tore that page out of the old book"...there are places...

that time frame sounds a lot less horrible than what I've read about on other threads...

its a 9 1/2...its kinda an apples and oranges deal....original budd style discs on slabsides used 4 piston calipers, a larger diameter master (1 1/8) for the extra volume and a dual diaphragm for the extra force to push it....the 71/73 single piston calipers used a smaller diameter master (1...

not to overly complicate your search but I've been running a single diaphram Midland (drum) booster with discs for over 20 years

The back plate and pedal assembly are different...here you can see the 4 holes where the booster bolts on

the screws under the windshield gasket cannot be accessed with the windshield still in the car...they would only need to be removed if you wanted to remove the entire metal dashboard ...you don't need to do that if all you are replacing is the dash pad...I don't know if access is better or worse...