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It's back, with a change of wheels, being sold by a member that's new to FCBO. For Sale - 1965 Plymouth Sport Fury for sale

Thanks for confirming that. As I was re-reading that old post I had made, looking at it with fresh eyes, I realized I was not 100% sure I had a 383 rod in there in the first place. Which would've made my conclusion invalid.

Yeah, based on what I requested and the response that was provided, I can only conclude that a Hurst has equivalent acceleration to a 72 New Yorker.

We have a member on here with one, it is a red '66 and IIRC a red interior. It wears small Chrysler-specific bottlecaps. Can't remember his screen-name, though...

My memory is that 1970 SFGT had the standard cam and dual exh (rated at 360hp?) but 71 had the HP cam and was rated at 370hp - down from 375 in the 1970 HP rating. IIRC the CR in 1971 a little lower than 1970 (was around 9.2 vs 9.5 or 9.7) and that went along with the 5hp drop. CR was...

At first I thought a $30k L-code car should have a nicely-restored grille. Then I saw the front valance and SMH...

@Ripinator I was thinking of a slightly-larger bezel that would clamp the original to the doorpanel with small tasteful stainless screws (probably 6 to ensure it didn't bow in hte middle). Could be CNC'd out of aluminum and then polished. Would take a little time, but I think I could make...

I am interested to see how David's Hurst compares to my memory of my 70 300 with TNT. Depends on whether I can bring the madman out in David for 10 secs or so.

Non-seller, in May and then in June. My opinion of this car is that, as-is, it is worth $13-15 for a drive-and-preserve toy, but too expensive for the work it would need to restore it to some justice. PM27N0D106955

Those 2 exhaust valves in the middle, top of picture, are exaclty the condition I was thinking of when I mentioned pressurizing the cylinder and popping the valve stem with a deadblow hammer. Lots of crust would be coming out of those 2. What would remain of those seats would probably be enough...

My L's original panels have those reflectors, but the manner they are stored in the basement I can't see the backside. Bbut I can see the bezel on one of them and it's really narrow, I'm not sure even a #0 screw could fit it. Rip - how much are you willing to deviate from original? I might...

Take the driveshaft out first, don't risk damaging your output shaft bushing or seal. It's only 4 bolts. Good time to check your U-joints anyway. Personally, I would run a 4x4 post or something similar side-side, a bit wider than the car, and put jackstands under that. You'll need to space...

Good that you originally had a 440, as I believe the intermediate/vertical rod is shorter for the 383, and too short to adjust up to the 440 length. (but that is based on tinkering on a small sample size) For my anecdotal experience, see here: No avoiding it; I MUST get NEW Linkage Hardware...

Here's the loose shifter I have. The red arrow points to a cotter pin, logically there's a spring and ball inside that item. There's a switch, and right at the R location there's a bump in the arc-path that moves the switch button. I am now wondering what this shifter is for, as both the...

I will certainly admit that sometimes I am wrong, although this time I am confused. Here's the pic from that FBBO thread, at first glance, the one on the left seems to be the one to match yours (and John's) as it has the cable clevis on it. But the rooster comb in this pic appears narrower, and...

Agreed, the sludge is not bad at all. And those crossover passages can get fully plugged, these would still be capable of doing their job. I've had 2 318s and they both did it to me, fully plugged. One one of them, the 2nd time it plugged it was so far down near the end of the passage I...

I think the prior responses are on the right track, but I have 2 questions that might be related. Was your car originally a 383, and what KD linkage did you use?

@D Cluley This pic seems not correct for a 65 trans, it shows a rooster comb, which would be used in a 66-up unit. 1965 has the detents in the shifter mechanism. But thanks for the effort of finding and posting the pics, they are surely helpful to whomever reads this.

Using this pic from @D Cluley, I would recommend checking this first, as you need do all of this to change the VB anyway. Disconnect the shift cable (lime color) and rotate the lever arms out of the way. See if the shift valve moves freely, you should feel some spring pressure behind it, too...

I think the seller is delusional that a set of sticky tires alone will make this a 215hp version into a 13-second car. I found a few 1/4-mile times and 14.6 was the lowest for the base engine, and low 13s for the SRT.