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Apply concrete sealer if not done already.

Burn outs in drag racing serves a purpose. Burn outs with a street car serves no purpose.

I'd leave it as is. The only thing you will gain by putting a 440 in it is telling people it has a 440 in it. Burn outs are for children.

If you're not interested in buying it what do you care what the ad looks like? If you're interested in buying it, request more information. It's really not hard.

A little roughness won't hurt the parking brake function. I mistakenly thought the reason you wanted the drum turned was to clean up the rust. I've used nothing but PS fluid in any Forward Looks I've owned as that is what the FSM called for, nothing more than auto parts store brand PS fluid...

No reason to turn or true up a parking brake drum. Hit the rust with some emery cloth and call it good. Surface rust will occur on it as you know it does not act as a brake drum.

Autozone shows two different seals. One for 83/4" ring gear and one for 8 1/4' ring gear.

While there is advice to pull the axles and remove the center section along with drive shaft and brake drums, you still have to remove the plug. I would try removing it in situ before going through all that.

https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/welding-discussions/18421-tips-welding-nut-to-broken-head-bolt If you have a welder or know someone who does.

CHLORINATED HYDROCARBON SOLVENTSVarious chlorinated hydrocarbons are used in degreasing or other cleaning operations. Thevapors of these solvents are a concern in welding and cutting because the heat and ultravioletradiation from the arc will decompose the vapors and form highly toxic and...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/use-candle-wax-to-loosen-rusted-on-bolts.1035825/ Wire brush the area until clean, heat, apply candle wax. After cleaning out the square hole, if there is not enough left to get a bite with the correct drive ratchet, carefully tap the plug in the...

I thought ethanol-free gas was the end-all for whatever ails a vehicle.

Never seen a thread posted with such a vague request for help. Perhaps you could post some examples from this forum? Take your time.

I don't believe I've ever seen them welded. I do remember that those rods as you call them can be pushed in but you could not pull them out. Perhaps at some point the innards that prevented them from being pulled out were broken and someone welded the loops in place to be able to hook the return...

Instead of whining about the rare lack of information by someone ,if those claiming they want to help, it's less effort to ask "what vehicle, etc,etc," than the time spent on this thread complaining.

I'd leave it the way it is. Their only original once.

Easily worth 3K. If you were restoring one you would have 3K in that interior alone.

Agreed. Address the source of the heat first before going all Rube Goldberg on it. They didn't run hotter than normal or overheat when new so they should not now. If you check the temp at the thermostat housing I've found you get a false reading with the car running because of the heated air...

Any locksmith can cut it but probably wont have the correct blanks.