Just smell it.. It has a very distinct odor and there is no mistaking it for gas. The more varnish, more smell. And even though you can run old gas, I wouldn't. It will leave gummy deposits on valves/pushrods that will cause problems. In your case however, I think your fuel should be ok. Give it...
When you say "crank with gas" does that mean you have gas being delivered to the engine or did you pour some down the throat? Batt is prob toast from cranking.. check your batt connections too. A dirty connection can play tricks on you. So no spark still?
You can try using a reducer in the vac line to stop the shake. See if it improves the reading. You still have a miss though. Is the miss intermittent? Stromberg 2 bbl carb?
Wow. You schooled us good with this one. Sorry I doubted what you were seeing! You never stop learning, that's for sure.. so what's the plan? Repair and reinstall or replace?
If it's old I would not put any undue pressure on it as you may create a new problem. Best bet is to flush system every two years. That is what I do. If it does not leak, run it!
I assume the seat worked prior to pulling the interior out. Are you getting any clicking like it is trying to move? Do you have a good ground? Try using the frame for a ground.
Shoot us some pics so we can see the actual fouling.
Was it idling/running the same before and after you replaced the plugs? Also, let's not forget - plug wires weren't mixed up on reinstall?
My advice is to drive it some more and keep track of the leak amount. My 383 will leak a tiny bit (2-3 small drops) after a winter slumber then stop completely.. Seeing you have only driven 100 miles, maybe give it a little more time/mileage to see what you are up against. I've seen too many...
Do you have any junkyards you can access over there? That would be one way to try and find those plugs. I did see some things on ebay. You could take a look and see if a seller will work with you to match one up. I have found that sellers may have things available that are not listed.. good luck...
You can also get the engine up to temp on a warm day and then disconnect the wire to the electric choke. The coil in the choke should have enough underhood heat to keep the choke open. Then you can see if it is still stalling with the electric connection omitted.
Other than that, check anything...
You said it started no problem but now requires fuel to be dribbled in. How long did it run before this new problem developed? The hole in the tank, has that been taken care of? What is the condition of the tank (debris getting into EFI system)? What is the fuel pressure up top with key on...
From experience (too much, actually), don't trust new parts. But, assuming they check out and your timing is on, recheck your points and throw a vac gauge on it to see if you now have a leak after intake removal and reinstall. Good luck
I have two tuneups-in-a-can - one being TKG-3 for Ford 6 cylinder and TKC-1 for Mopar big block. Both unopened. See pics for condition.
I also have an LA throttle bracket. Never used. It had a stamp that said "360" on it.
Asking 50 for the TKC-1, 25 for the TKG-3 and 40 for the bracket +...
How is the ground for the blower motor? With the car off, has the wiring been checked for short to ground? Can you check for a short on the fan (from power input to fan case)? You can also put your meter in place of the fan to see what the voltage is and if the fuse is still getting warm when...