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I'm afraid that's mediocre at best. Even at idle it should be damn near or at 14.2. I know my '67 Imperial goes lower but that's because there's a hundred bulbs lighting up across the stern. Lol. Btw How much power is that radio pulling? I know some of these new systems require you to run a...

For one thing you need to get a decent Digital Volt Meter and not just use the "el cheapo" one under the dash. You may have wiring issues through the few yards of wiring going to it. And please don't get the "coupon freebie" from Horrible Freight. Spend a few bucks and get a nice one. Make...

14.2- +/- Just for the hell of it, check the connections on the ammeter gauge at the back of the instrument cluster. They can cause some funky problems.

Maybe check a factory parts manual and see if there was a different SR for auto and manual. I can't imagine there would be, or power windows for that matter.

If you remove the regulator with the motor attached I don't think you'll have a problem. It should come out as a unit. The motor will prevent the spring from unwinding. If it does unwind, it will only go so far. Just far enough to smash your fingers. So be careful regardless. The real fun begins...

Most all Mopars run on ported vacuum even before emissions were even a consideration. My advice is to disconnect the vacuum advance, set your idle speed and timing to spec. Then hook your vacuum to ported vacuum. Your car will run a thousand times better. Brighter minds than mine on this forum...

Where'd he get the cover for your seats? When i bought my 300, the drivers side was pretty rough but luckily it came with a brand new mopar replacement cover. I had that put on and now the passenger side looks crappy.. LOL

That's not entirely true... I think the dual point distributers were developed along with the original hemi engines. My '53 331 and '54 354 both had dual points. I believe the thinking was to give a longer spark because of the size of the domed Hemi head engines they wanted a longer burn for...

Chilton manuals, the new "go to" replacement for the unobtainable Sears catalog in the outhouse.

Chrysler came out with their electronic ignition in 1972 on some models. In '73 it was standard on all lines. Save yourself some money and aggravation. Get a standard Mopar electronic ignition setup. Tried and true. Never mind the b.s. Seen too many guys go with pertronix etc. And have nothing...

His car is 12 volts, I thought you had some secret weapon that we should be running a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system. Why do you think his car is 6 volts?

Just check to make sure you get some when you crack the throttle. Stranger things happen!

What is the advantage to running a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system?

Here's a pic of the blue point kit about $75... we have the same ones that @65 500 showed from MAC, but they are a bit fiddly. I haven't sold one of those round ones in years. Reason is, depending on which one your using on the disc, the others are jamming into the palm of your hand like a...

Snapon has a whole kit. Some of the round ones are even spring loaded to eject the terminal TT12KT. 12 pieces, all kinds of shapes and thicknesses.

Looks to me like your gonna have to take a die grinder to it. Unfortunately

Unfortunately there aren't any lead smelting plants here anymore. (Thanks to you know who's EPA's regulations) With any luck maybe that will change.

Another thought Is the charger you'll need for those agm batteries. You better plan on getting a new charger along with the battery. One that has an option for charging these types of batteries. I know a guy who sells them :poke:

I'll agree about leaving the key on. However, I'll have to disagree about 3,000 mile thing. More like 30,000. I've never heard of changing the points every time I change my oil.:poke:

I did this mod on my '73 Imperial and it worked perfectly. I don't remember the part number either but they are pretty basic. As long the drawing on the relay matches the one in the drawing above you'll be good to go. They are all plainly marked.