I run points on Mathilda (66 Newport 2 dr 383) and will for so long as I can get them. My dwell angle is 30 degrees, timing set 12.5 degrees BTDC, I pull 16 " vacuum at 550 rpm curb idle. That old motor starts normally on the first bump, save if its been below 50 F outside, and the choke isn't pulled. (Put that on my Stromberg WWC last Fall.) I use copper core 7 mm wire and platinum Autolite AP85 plugs with this and a Standard coil. VERY OEM, and VERY RELIABLE! With a family to support with this car, this is what we need and this is what we have. God-willing, I'll rebuild the front end next week after some post Christmas work, then start the new year looking to scrape up the $$ for a new carb and then a nice aluminum radiator by summer.
My point is: points WORK! They work very well so long as one maintains them, and keeps everything else appropriate for the approximate 30 kV ignition such electro-mechanical methods presuppose. I change mine 2-3 times per annum, and use NOS Mopar CH15V 2098244 points, which do VERY well, and still can be had for under $10. If you just want to enjoy driving one of these excellent old land yachts for transportation, breaker point ignitions work fine, and DO give the driver the satisfaction of being able to really tune their engine. I had a 440 in a 66 New Yorker with a 70 kV Accel coil and a Mopar solid state ignition 12 yrs ago, and while this car CONVERTED ME TO MOPAR C BODIES, that ignition SUCKED, despite how GOOD it was supposed to be. The 100 A alternator made things tedious also. I learned from that to keep the technology appropriate to the SYSTEM it goes into. Stick with your antique ignition if you like.