Points bad?

FuryDan66

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Do these look really bad to you and they got some stuff on them but not sure that would cause rough idle?

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Do these look really bad to you and they got some stuff on them but not sure that would cause rough idle?

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View attachment 158152

You could probably file those points flat, re-install them and set the gap to spec. But since you got 'em out, why not just replace them (and the condenser too)? Points are pretty inexpensive. RockAuto is your friend.
 
Thanks, yep replaced them and she's running much smoother. I really need to probably just upgrade the whole entire thing but I kind of like running point cuz it's all original car. But I also know that I could have this problem a lot more often with points. Not really sure how long they last?
 
nice thing about points is it gives you something to play with and adjust. makes me feel all fuzzy and warm when it starts running good again.:steering:
 
Thanks, yep replaced them and she's running much smoother. I really need to probably just upgrade the whole entire thing but I kind of like running point cuz it's all original car. But I also know that I could have this problem a lot more often with points. Not really sure how long they last?

I run points on my 440. Don't know why other than I like the fact they are there and kinda kool. Other systems are better /hotter spark etc. I was told by many to upgrade and a few that said "what the hell they work don't they?" I do like the antique mechanical quality of them though. I have been tempted especially by Pertronix as they have a system that is totally stock looking and you can jump the ballast resistor to keep the stock look........
 
I Run points in my 1960's Mopars and am happy, Points wear out slowly while anything Electronic can Fail at anytime or be Unpredictable. Just Sayin'
 
I run points on Mathilda (66 Newport 2 dr 383) and will for so long as I can get them. My dwell angle is 30 degrees, timing set 12.5 degrees BTDC, I pull 16 " vacuum at 550 rpm curb idle. That old motor starts normally on the first bump, save if its been below 50 F outside, and the choke isn't pulled. (Put that on my Stromberg WWC last Fall.) I use copper core 7 mm wire and platinum Autolite AP85 plugs with this and a Standard coil. VERY OEM, and VERY RELIABLE! With a family to support with this car, this is what we need and this is what we have. God-willing, I'll rebuild the front end next week after some post Christmas work, then start the new year looking to scrape up the $$ for a new carb and then a nice aluminum radiator by summer.

My point is: points WORK! They work very well so long as one maintains them, and keeps everything else appropriate for the approximate 30 kV ignition such electro-mechanical methods presuppose. I change mine 2-3 times per annum, and use NOS Mopar CH15V 2098244 points, which do VERY well, and still can be had for under $10. If you just want to enjoy driving one of these excellent old land yachts for transportation, breaker point ignitions work fine, and DO give the driver the satisfaction of being able to really tune their engine. I had a 440 in a 66 New Yorker with a 70 kV Accel coil and a Mopar solid state ignition 12 yrs ago, and while this car CONVERTED ME TO MOPAR C BODIES, that ignition SUCKED, despite how GOOD it was supposed to be. The 100 A alternator made things tedious also. I learned from that to keep the technology appropriate to the SYSTEM it goes into. Stick with your antique ignition if you like.
 
Yeah for now I'll just keep her as she is. Not looking at racing or being that fast car on the street. Just love firing her up and driving off :)
 
Points are very reliable. I've owned a large number of Mopars over the years, some with points and some with electronic. The ones with points never left me stranded while the ones with electronic ignition did.
 
Points are very reliable. I've owned a large number of Mopars over the years, some with points and some with electronic. The ones with points never left me stranded while the ones with electronic ignition did.

Ditto
 
Don't leave ignition switch on without engine running, very hard on points.
You can expect them to wear out of tune about 3000 mi or so. About every year or so 6months if you are really pulling the miles on our fair weather cars.
 
I run a numbers matching Prestolite dual point distributor with Standard Automotive Products/Blue Streak points. I've found they have the largest contact surface (for very long life and low resistance) and i believe the XP series have the little red wick to keep the rubbing block lubricated. I always set the points at the high end of the specs allowing for wear. You can find them as NOS on eBay. This is just my opinion.
Bob Renton
 
Dan,
Google Standard Motor Products website. .SMP. You will then search the site for any/all the Standard ptofucts.
The points part number is: CH 14V. Condenser is AL111 and the rotor part number is CH303.
Suggest you search the site for a distributor in your area. The SMP site takes a little getting use to but you can save searches etc....most all parts. Even the Dual point parts are listed....check it out or search eBay by standard motor products or Blue streak.....
Bob Renton
 
I deal with these all the time agree with the blue streak also but prefer NOS if I can find them even OSS. The new condensers absolutely suck I get around 40% fail rate when I test them.
 
Don't leave ignition switch on without engine running, very hard on points.
You can expect them to wear out of tune about 3000 mi or so. About every year or so 6 months if you are really pulling the miles on our fair weather cars.

I'll agree about leaving the key on. However, I'll have to disagree about 3,000 mile thing. More like 30,000. I've never heard of changing the points every time I change my oil.:poke:
 
I'll agree about leaving the key on. However, I'll have to disagree about 3,000 mile thing. More like 30,000. I've never heard of changing the points every time I change my oil.:poke:
Oil is too much money to be changing it every 3000mi, points are cheap:poke:
 
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