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Ok thank you for the info!

Alright I hooked everything up, got a new battery, cables, alternator, and voltage regulator. I'm going to put fusible links on both ends of both ammeter and bypass wires just to be safe. I tested it out and the bypass is working very well. I'll keep an eye on it but I think once everything is...

Transcendent Wisdom of the Age.

THEY don't want us rolling in anything made of American Steel, or carrying any by our hip, or in our pockets. THEY want to plant cheap Android embedded snitches up our arse's, so they can then bend us over and cornhole us out of our last cent at their leisure. WAY too many FOOLS will GIVE THIS...

Nice job. Hang on to that can. I saw that Hirsch's price isn't too bad. There's some cheaper stuff that sort of looks like the proper Chrysler turquoise, but its just that: sort of. I'll get the Hirsch stuff when I need more enamel in quantity. I'll punch a neat hole in the can of VHT I...

Hi my name is Dave, I’ve had several Mopars over the years but currently own a 73 D100 with a slant 6. Like so many others I let my favorite one get away, from the age of 16-20 I drove a 440 4 spd Monaco 500 It was purchased new in Perryville MO and unfortunately I think the car was stripped...

I saw a $35,000+ copper-colored 63 Fury on ebay yesterday. Had body-colored wheels, painted outward and inward sides. But the wheels didn't match between front and rear, and the RWLs on the rear were on the inside. Like making a martini and then putting a marachino cherry in it.

Thanks! Was that photo taken in Australia? I’m basing that on the white sedan (Ford Fairlane?) to the kids’ right.

It's an RPM manifold? I glanced thru for the answer, didn't see it - have you extended your throttle linkage bracket, or does it have an aftermarket one? My throttle cable did not align well on my 440 with the regular Performer manifold (so I welded a piece into it), I suspect the RPM manifold...

I'm not sure, but I think the paint on his car is probably enamel. This may not be relevant.

That is roughly the shape of a C-body swaybar, IMO you should grab that while it's available. Then later you could see how it measures up to a C-body bar, for spread-and-reach of the ends C-bodies front bars came in 7/8" and 15/16" diameters.

diggin' the story -- minus your mishap. helmets? not the stingray club in the 70's.

Yes, I not too long ago converted my headliner from the perforated hard board to the vinyl version that mimics the 1972 or 73 headliners placed in these wagons from then on from the factory. My installer said it fit pretty good but he had to stretch it a little bit to fit at the very rear but...

A brief digression to add to the circular storage tanks: Natural Gas Storage in Virginia

Finding NOS or used is highly unlikely. I would buy one of the repros that has adequate length & then heat & bend the holed end to the correct angle (if needed). http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=100

...code for mono tone paint if it was a Two Tone car it might be TH2 Medium Copper/Dark Copper/Two Tone (1967) Edit: 291 is the option code for mono tone paint 292 is the option code for two tone paint 27* is the option code for the roof 28* is the option code for the body Roof/Body/Style Alan

My parents got to say that, not the 20 miles part, but the fact that they grew up in Winnipeg—including the winter. They deprived me of similar stories. I don’t have kids, but do drive a school bus. “A C-body Chrysler with a potent V-8, heater, a/c, radio” just doesn’t have the same effect...

If you have already purchased the Wilwood kit, I will stay quiet.

Hello! I bought a 66 Plymouth fury 383 4 speed and the clutch adjustment rod is missing the nut and the threads are all gone. I cannot find a replacement for a C-body anywhere, only A, Band E bodies. Can anybody tell me where I can find one or if an another one would fit? Thanks