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Then it quick to torch or sawzall off the sump and pickup.

A small block pan is just as easy to take off as a BB The not fun part is removing the center link. Could unbolt it and then lift the edge up to remove pickup. And a SB just 2 oil pump bolts takes off the pickup also. No need twisting it and needing clearance for the twist on a BB

Yes sounds good. you can leave the trans on the jack under the car, and you can check the u-joints while the driveshaft is out. It's just hard to feel when something is bound up when trying to clear the crossmember with the oil pan and tilting the engine.

Hold on folks. Let's discuss this 2 inches idea. Yes the converter goes in the front pump 2 inches. But the input shaft goes inside the torque converter about 4 more inches. So is this 6" total. The end of the input shaft is about 1/2" from the front edge of the bellhousing. And the oil...

Anyone know what happened to this car? The photos color look off. I thought they were black and white at first. On the seals looking gray, maybe they tinted the photos gray to make the paint look better or to hide flaws? Maybe it's the lighting in the building and what the camera picks up...

I think it is not that rare when new. But over the decades of people robbing the 440 magnums out of them they are rare now. I've owned L code (375 HP) and K codes (350 HP) and the power difference is noticeable. But K code engine in good condition runs very well and powerful. Still have...

1965 only

If it cranks the fuse I left link is good. Need to check for spark. All these new parts could mean problems. Pull coil wire from cap and place it near metal and crank it. If it sparks and won't start pull a couple easy plugs and make sure they are not wet or fouled. Yes make sure battery is...

Ok so this one in first post is a 66 Fury. A 67 has the base that's almost flat. They are solid mounted for sure.

Very true, but a glass guy of today doesn't have to deal with metal trim around the glass. It's all held together with urethane. Cut it out and toss it, install everything new. Try asking a current glass guy about doing glass in gaskets like our 60's mopars, most won't even consider it...

When the regulator loses ground the charging system goes to 16 volts, not to zero charge. So ground is not the problem for no charge. Removing the paint is not necessary. How many millions of new cars are built and they never remove any paint from under these gadgets. They work fine, and...

They just put on a different drum and didn't mess with the studs. Quick and easy. I wouldn't worry about it and keep driving. The rear studs are easy to swap if you want the lefties gone. I just bought a new old mopar and it has one RH and 4 LH studs on the LF! Fun!

After thinking about this car height. No way those shocks are raising it that high. But if they do I would be interested in buying them! LOL

A 67 looks simular but the top is not flat, the point of the two lines runs above the flat top so there is a point on top. It will cut your car cover over time. The base and nut shape is different angle, sharp v in it for B body and very slight v on a C body. Here is a 67 b body see the...

You can remove just the bottom connection on the shocks and see if the car goes down. My bet is no change.

Could be anything. But any starter needs a good battery and both cables with clean tight connections. He needs to start with the basics and make sure they are right.

Ok that good to know. If the car won't start and hasn't run is the battery run down? How many volts? Is the battery charged? Is the battery good? Can you try it in another vehicle?

Make sure the engine is not stuck. A bad battery cable or connection can do this. Beyond that hard to help without knowing the car, engine, year, etc.

I have one from a 67 and a 68. Are they the same dimensions?

What is FMB?