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I bought this car back in 2020 as a project car, but as time has gone on, my life has changed a lot and I can't really keep her around anymore. I want her to have a better home and someone that will take better care of her so I'm selling it now. I would take a trade for it as well, for a good...

I bought one of the dual-diaphragm boosters from a user here. You'll probably have to wait a while and scour the forums and FB groups to see if you can find a listing or someone making a comment about it - that's how I found mine. I actually got it for pretty cheap too, because he had another...

For leak testing, I would say to use a UV dye in the system (although if it's empty, you'd probably have to charge it with freon anyways to have it circulate properly...I'm not actually sure about that part). But I've bought cans of R-12 on eBay so I don't think you would have an issue finding...

That spray in the trunk immediately made me think "oh boy, I wonder what THAT'S hiding"...

I'll send you a DM for a shipping quote.

That's a very happy ending on your part!

Hopping into the ring again! One of the later things into my project 68 is to add Cruise Control (Chrysler refers to it as Speed Control), and my current parts on the box is from a 69 - well, I didn't realize until today that the earlier system (seems pre-1970) used vacuum-operated brake...

Actually, my system turns out to be a 69 - I don't think your brake switch would work for my system. Sorry about that.

I'd also like the bracket for the servo, if at all possible - the one I got is rusted and the bolts look incredibly seized.

Looks like it has cruise control, could you get the part under the brake that turns it off (I believe it's part of the brake light wiring assembly?) I believe it's a button type of assembly. Just opened up the manual for CC, they call it a brake switch: that's what I need.

I finessed one from a guy on FB for $67 dollars - was in great condition. These guys are right, super rare in any passable condition and are $$$$ (unless you're like me, and get super lucky). I am partially posting this to flex.

Yup, I got the rear bracket. So no need to send that one.

Yes, a 383. So yours would probably fit perfectly fine with maybe a few adjustments assuming a bolt hole doesn't line up. I'm just curious why yours seems to have two front brackets while mine is just one large piece. I guess they would've changed that from the 67 to the 68 model year...for...

Actually, I think I might want your bracket - yours looks different than mine, on my 68. Mine actually made it a pain to get the water pump off for my front engine rebuild. It's right at the top of this image I had of my teardown of mine: I guess they changed it from 67 to 68?

Sounds great - If you can't remove the brackets it's fine, but yeah I have no real need for them.

I've thought about the Sanden, but I think that would require me to buy some specific brackets compared to the regular AC brackets for the RV2 - get a shipping quote and we'll go from there. I like to keep things OEM, and honestly $50 plus shipping, I'll do that. I'll DM you my zipcode so you...

How much would shipping put a dent in my wallet?

Hey all, To put a long story short, I think the RV2 compressor that came with my Chrysler was a bit...wonky. I had disassembled it about 80/90% with no issue, until I reached one of my pistons (specifically, the bolts connecting the rod to the bottom connecting rod, across the crankshaft)...

If I seem to remember correctly, the way to bleed the box itself is to put a hose (or just keep one of them on), and then rotate the steering wheel a few times left to right while one of the hoses empties the fluid into your container, and keep doing that until it dries up. Perhaps worth doing...

For what it's worth, RockAuto sells the pistons and the seals for the calipers, so the only thing you'd really need to do is hone your cylinder bore (or have a shop do it for you), and then you'd just put it in there. The piston and gaskets came out to around 30-40 bucks, I want to say?