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After two months of sitting waiting for the brake booster to be rebuilt, the starter now just clicks when I try to start the car. Sounds like the solenoid is popping forward but not spinning. The battery has been on a tender this whole time, and jump starting from another vehicle did not...

So, after my distributor grenaded and caused all manner of bucking and stumbling, my choke settings are no longer what they used to be. My fast idle speed has changed and the choke plate seems to be closed too much, causing it to run like poo-poo on initial start. I’ve made some adjustments to...

So upon the advice of some here at FCBO, I've been using 2-cycle marine oil as an additive to my gas at 1oz:5 gal of 91 non-ethanol gasoline. While dealing with my distributor malfunction and troubleshooting the entire ignition system, I found my spark plugs were quite brown and glazed (making...

Got my distributor replaced with one from HalifaxHops after the "Rick E." unit I had self destructed. The engine fired right up, but there still seems to be an issue. I haven't driven it yet, but just getting it warmed up I can tell it's running rough. I put new plugs in it while the dizzy...

The audio in this video is not great due to the iPhones built-in compression, so it’s not sounding the same in the video as it is in real life. Was pulling out into highway traffic today, a 50 mile an hour zone, and did my usual good, hard acceleration, and I got to about 2500 and the engine...

If you’ve got your fuel sending unit out of the tank for any reason, it’s always a good time to change the filter. I found this one on Amazon for about $15 and it’s a perfect match to what came out of the car. Hope this is helpful to some of you. It originally fits Ford vehicles of the 60s and...

The idle on my 66 Newport 383/2v gets slower and slower until it stalls. What do you think could cause this issue? Car ran fine when parked for the winter in November. Fuel in the tank and carb is non-ethanol 91 octane. Started it back up after sitting for three months, and now it doesn't...

Despite upgrading to electronic ignition (HiRev 7500 box and distro kit), rebuilt carb (tuned at idle to 19 in/mg), timing advanced slightly to 15 BTDC @ 500rpm, kick down linkage adjusted to factory spec, etc., I’m not getting better than 8-10 mpg in town even with driving very conservatively...

On my ‘66 Newport my 1-2 upshift is smooth and silent, but my 2-3 shift is loud and clunky. Inspecting the u-joints found no faults. Is this “a thing” or is something else amiss that I don’t know about? Thanks!

OK I know somebody posted a source for these little things from somewhere, but I don’t remember what they’re called, who it was, or where to get them. Please post a link if you know.

I know the correct answer to this question is to pull and repair/replace the steering gear box, but my question is, can some Power Steering Stop Leak buy me some time? It doesn't leak a lot, just enough to annoy Mrs. darth_linux when she looks at the driveway where I park the Newport.

Trans was rebuilt probably 5 years ago - not sure. A little bit of leakage from the seal. Curious about the surface rust. At one time it looks like the yoke went in a lot more. Now it does not. The car has been driven more in the last 2 months than in the last 5 years, so there’s no way for me...

Why would my PS line be leaking here? It’s new, and it’s tight.

Hi friends, I think I have the wrong thermostat housing and/or the wrong radiator hose. You can see the PO put a piece of rubber between the upper hose and the air conditioning compressor to keep the two from rubbing, and in the second picture I’m pointing to a part of the upper hose that got...

What do you notice? This is after 350 miles on the highway with 87 octane unleaded. About 24 gallons used.

I'm working on a mid '60s Stromberg WWC, and I'm checking the choke pull off. Begins to move with 5 mmHg and is completely engaged by 10 mmHg. Is somewhat slow to release if over-engaged - maybe sticking. Does anyone have a known-good or NEW unit to compare with mine? Wanna compare if mine...

The original carb on my '66 Newport 383-2 is missing and was replaced with a Carter 6134s from a later model Dodge truck. A rebuild kit for this carb seems to be unobtainable. Would my car's build sheet tell me what carb it should of have, or any other document/casting number etc? I know it...

Hi! The promo video for 1968 Chrysler models mentions that the horsepower on the '68 383 went from 270 to 290. Does anyone know what changed for the '68 model year to give this increase? thanks! Dave