1962 chrysler Newport front and rear disc breaks

[AngelCalderon]

I already have a front and rear disc break on the car that works but I would like to increase the break pressure. I'm wondering which route I can go to increase break pressure,
I'm very open to any suggestions and knowledge


Thanks in advance, Angel

 

[mikedrini]

I already have a front and rear disc break on the car that works but I would like to increase the break pressure. I'm wondering which route I can go to increase break pressure,
I'm very open to any suggestions and knowledge


Thanks in advance, Angel

Hydroboost, I used it with my stock power steering pump on my 64. Best brakes I've had in a classic. I have a disc/drum setup.

 

[CBODY67]

Whose 4-whl disc brake kit is on the car?

Might there be an issue with "hard linings" rather than boosted pressure?

Dual diaphram booster?

On the OEM hydroboost pickups I've driven, I was always impressed with the firmness of the pedal (compared to similar vehicles with vac power brakes) the hydroboost offered. Bad thing is plumbing the lines so they take up less underhood real estate.

Just curious,
CBODY67

 

[AngelCalderon]

Whose 4-whl disc brake kit is on the car?

Might there be an issue with "hard linings" rather than boosted pressure?

Dual diaphram booster?

On the OEM hydroboost pickups I've driven, I was always impressed with the firmness of the pedal (compared to similar vehicles with vac power brakes) the hydroboost offered. Bad thing is plumbing the lines so they take up less underhood real estate.

Just curious,
CBODY67

I have willwood on the front with a 2 piece floating rotor set up on the front and leed 8 3/4 on the rear. What hydro boost set up is ideal could you provide a year make a model or possibly a link?

 

[CBODY67]

I have willwood on the front with a 2 piece floating rotor set up on the front and leed 8 3/4 on the rear. What hydro boost set up is ideal could you provide a year make a model or possibly a link?

How much lining area are in the front pads AND what composition of the friction material, front and rear? If the fronts are "GM D52" based, then there can be some good high-metallic pads to choose from, or even some great carbon-metallic pads. I would suspect these things should be on the Wilwood website under "Specs"? Once you get outside of the OEM realm of things, you are at the mercy of the supplier as to what is good or if their products are "universally good", by observation.

Are your concerns with the "first hard stop" or the "5th hard stop"?

WHICH booster?

If you feel you need "more pad engagement" to stop the car, you need better frictions to do that, NOT increased line pressure.

Especially if a rubber flex line might rupture from it! Braided stainless steel-covered brake lines can put a bit more pressure into the mix, from decreased flex line deflection, BUT they still have rubber inside of them to deteriorate with age. Not nearly as bullet-proof as some might perceive.

CBODY67

 

[AngelCalderon]

How much lining area are in the front pads AND what composition of the friction material, front and rear? If the fronts are "GM D52" based, then there can be some good high-metallic pads to choose from, or even some great carbon-metallic pads. I would suspect these things should be on the Wilwood website under "Specs"? Once you get outside of the OEM realm of things, you are at the mercy of the supplier as to what is good or if their products are "universally good", by observation.

Are your concerns with the "first hard stop" or the "5th hard stop"?

WHICH booster?

If you feel you need "more pad engagement" to stop the car, you need better frictions to do that, NOT increased line pressure.

Especially if a rubber flex line might rupture from it! Braided stainless steel-covered brake lines can put a bit more pressure into the mix, from decreased flex line deflection, BUT they still have rubber inside of them to deteriorate with age. Not nearly as bullet-proof as some might perceive.

CBODY67

I have to look into all of that thank you, I would say over all stopping it stops but requires a couple pumps or to press hard on the pedal sometimes both. It is on the original booster from factory

 

[Big_John]

requires a couple pumps or to press hard on the pedal sometimes both

If you have to pump the brakes, something is wrong in the hydraulic system. By pressing hard on the pedal, does that mean the pedal is near the floor?

If those are the issues you are having, chances are you have air in the lines or some other issue that needs to be repaired BEFORE you make any changes.

You've said "Wilwood" for the fronts and Leeds on the rear. What do you have for a master cylinder and booster? One of those generic GM clone setups?

 

[AngelCalderon]

If you have to pump the brakes, something is wrong in the hydraulic system. By pressing hard on the pedal, does that mean the pedal is near the floor?

If those are the issues you are having, chances are you have air in the lines or some other issue that needs to be repaired BEFORE you make any changes.

You've said "Wilwood" for the fronts and Leeds on the rear. What do you have for a master cylinder and booster? One of those generic GM clone setups?

I have the Original 1962 booster and I believe the dual master cylinder I have is a generic gm clone setups. The pedal does almost go the floor but the car stops I just want the break pedal to engage the breaks quickly and without effort

 

[CBODY67]

Valid concern and I believe the factory brakes would do that. I would be concerned NOT about the source of the master cyl but the diameter of the pistons in it. How different from the one that Wilwood uses if you buy their complete kit or is recommended by Wilwood?

Hydraulic "leverage" comes from how the master cyl piston diameter interacts with the diameters of the caliper pistons. Hopefully positively rather than negatively. "Leverage" which is separate and above any provided by an auxillary pressure booster device, not unlike the difference in the leverage in a brake pedal designed for a power brake system and one designed for a non-boosted brake system, to result in similar line pressures from different foot pressures inputs.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[AngelCalderon]

Valid concern and I believe the factory brakes would do that. I would be concerned NOT about the source of the master cyl but the diameter of the pistons in it. How different from the one that Wilwood uses if you buy their complete kit or is recommended by Wilwood?

Hydraulic "leverage" comes from how the master cyl piston diameter interacts with the diameters of the caliper pistons. Hopefully positively rather than negatively. "Leverage" which is separate and above any provided by an auxillary pressure booster device, not unlike the difference in the leverage in a brake pedal designed for a power brake system and one designed for a non-boosted brake system, to result in similar line pressures from different foot pressures inputs.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Hmm that's a good one, I didn't know willwood had break master cylinder , are you saying if I use the master from willwood for those breaks I could solve my issue?

 

[CBODY67]

Hmm that's a good one, I didn't know willwood had break master cylinder , are you saying if I use the master from willwood for those breaks I could solve my issue?

Go into their website and look around! You might find your answer there.

Also make sure that what you have is correctly-sized for that weight of vehicle!

Just a thought,
CBODY67