Looking for a brake conversion for my 65 Chrysler newport

[Cianmini1]

Hi guys from Dublin Ireland!
I’m looking at doing a Front brake disc conversion on my 65 Chrysler Newport that currently has drums all round.
Can anyone recommend a kit that won’t break the bank but is a good kit, having awful trouble with the drums and want it to be a better system.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Cian

 

[CBODY67]

The BEST thing to do is to use a Chrysler OEM system from a salvage yard donor vehicle, but considering your location, that can be an issue. You might check out the www.bbtr.de (might need to manually input that address) people for local recommendations in that respect.

Otherwise, something from the Wilwood catalog might be appropriate, for even a 4-whl power disc brake system.

The Chrysler power front disc brakes cars, pre-1969, used a dual diaphram power brake booster. Similar to what is on your car but longer in body (to house both diaphrams), but the Wilwood catalog might have some other recommendations.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

From things I've read and seen here, stay away from the Leeds conversions.

 

[GTX WON]

what type of trouble? cheapest thing to do would be find out what problem your having with the drums. in my opinion I have done new conversions and the 69 -74 salvage operation and for the money have never been as impressed as with a properly operating drum system. I use my 68 Monaco wagon as a daily driver for almost 15 years and have had no issues. remember unless in heavy traffic or if you live in the mountains the disc really only offer better stopping and less fading under those conditons. you have more contact with the shoes and drum set up. finding your problem with drums would probably be your cheapest solution. unlesss you plan on towing something heavy that would be my solution.

 

[CBODY67]

^^^^ This is more accurate than not, as to how well the old drum brake systems operated. Even with them you can upgrade to a '67 dual master cylinder and plumbing, for general principles.

The "bad" thing about drum brakes is the ready supply of new parts, especially DRUMS of the needed width, will most probably, diminish as time progresses. SAME with the Scarebird recommendations (as they are related to new parts available at major auto supplies). At some point in time, I suspect that Wilwood might experience these same issues, but I also suspect that time is at least two decades away.

Have you changed all of the rubber brake lines and investigated the metal lines for internal rusting?

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[Cianmini1]

^^^^ This is more accurate than not, as to how well the old drum brake systems operated. Even with them you can upgrade to a '67 dual master cylinder and plumbing, for general principles.

The "bad" thing about drum brakes is the ready supply of new parts, especially DRUMS of the needed width, will most probably, diminish as time progresses. SAME with the Scarebird recommendations (as they are related to new parts available at major auto supplies). At some point in time, I suspect that Wilwood might experience these same issues, but I also suspect that time is at least two decades away.

Have you changed all of the rubber brake lines and investigated the metal lines for internal rusting?

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

Hi guys thanks for all the comments,
I do sit in a lot of traffic and had a scare with terrible brake fade and lost the brake all together, so I’ve changed the wheel cylinders,master cylinder and adjusted the drums till there’s slight contact on the drum. And still not getting a great pedal!
I’ve bench bled the master cylinder also and I’ve made sure there’s no air! Pedal nice and hard but as soon as the car starts up and the booster kicks in the pedal goes almost to the floor which is scary! I’ve just bought new rubber lines as that’s the only thing I Havnt changed so gonna see how I get on with that! Metal hard lines seem to be good.

 

[Davea Lux]

Hi guys thanks for all the comments,
I do sit in a lot of traffic and had a scare with terrible brake fade and lost the brake all together, so I’ve changed the wheel cylinders,master cylinder and adjusted the drums till there’s slight contact on the drum. And still not getting a great pedal!
I’ve bench bled the master cylinder also and I’ve made sure there’s no air! Pedal nice and hard but as soon as the car starts up and the booster kicks in the pedal goes almost to the floor which is scary! I’ve just bought new rubber lines as that’s the only thing I Havnt changed so gonna see how I get on with that! Metal hard lines seem to be good.

Did you check the travel rod adjustment for the booster?

Dave

 

[Cianmini1]

Did you check the travel rod adjustment for the booster?

Dave

 

[Cianmini1]

View attachment 714019

There doesn’t appear to be any adjustment on this rod?

 

[GTX WON]

at the very end of the rod behind the curve you can put a small wrench on the 6 point star and hold the splines that are behind it. it will move and adjust out. also I use to have a 66 Plymouth vip with single master cylinder and power booster the Chrysler system is so sensitive if you breathe on the pedal it will throw you into the windshield. check and recheck all parts,especially new wheel cylinders. if made in China they can have to large a bore and I have seen the pistons get crooked and stuck inside so it feels like the pedal is also to the floor. adjust that the rod out first though and recheck.

 

[Cianmini1]

at the very end of the road behind the curve you can put a small wrench on the 6 point star and hold the splines that are behind it. it will move and adjust out. also I use to have a 66 Plymouth vip with single master cylinder and power booster the Chrysler system is so sensitive if you breathe on the pedal it will throw you into the windshield. check and recheck all parts,especially new wheel cylinders. if made in China they can have to large a bore and I have seen the pistons get crooked and stuck inside so it feels like the pedal is also to the floor. adjust that the road out first though and recheck.

Hi ok il try this I just presumed it didn’t adjust!
How much adjustment is needed do you happen to know?

 

[GTX WON]

I usually run the rod out until it hits the inside of the piston on the master cylinder and turn it about 1 turn more. there may be an adjustment in the manual but I dont remember. if memory serves me I believe there is a difference in the power brake master cylinder and manual brake. years ago I remember I had a car that it took a while to get the right one, and I dont remember what the difference.

 

[CBODY67]

If you have the mechanicals adjusted properly, yet the booster self-applies "to the floor" when the engine starts, that is not supposed to happen. Yes, if you deplete the vacuum in the reservoir, when you start the engine with a firm pressure on the brake pedal, it will "sink" about 1/2" or less when the vacuum happens (as specified in many service literature items), that is normal, but not what you describe.

As to "brake fade in traffic", where the brakes are used to modulate vehicle speed, DO make sure that you are not following so close to the car in front that no air can get to the brakes for normal convective cooling. Plus getting some air through the radiator to keep the engine cool.

I'm not sure of the traffic patterns over there, but extended stop-and-go traffic should not be fading the brakes that much, compared to mountain driving, for example. No matter WHAT type of brake lining in being used. As long as it is OEM-quality level, at least.

Power brakes, back then, were KNOWN to be "touchy", especially GM power brakes. I inherited a '70 Skylark from a great aunt. When I would move the car around in the driveway, the first brake application had to be done carefully (after driving a power disc/drum car) so I didn't eat steering wheel. But after I got past that, my actions adjusted and all was fine.

IF you are having a booster issue, that can happen whether there are drum brakes at all corners or not. For the brake fade concerns, you might try driving the car without wheel covers for possibly better brake cooling.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[Cianmini1]

Hi th

If you have the mechanicals adjusted properly, yet the booster self-applies "to the floor" when the engine starts, that is not supposed to happen. Yes, if you deplete the vacuum in the reservoir, when you start the engine with a firm pressure on the brake pedal, it will "sink" about 1/2" or less when the vacuum happens (as specified in many service literature items), that is normal, but not what you describe.

As to "brake fade in traffic", where the brakes are used to modulate vehicle speed, DO make sure that you are not following so close to the car in front that no air can get to the brakes for normal convective cooling. Plus getting some air through the radiator to keep the engine cool.

I'm not sure of the traffic patterns over there, but extended stop-and-go traffic should not be fading the brakes that much, compared to mountain driving, for example. No matter WHAT type of brake lining in being used. As long as it is OEM-quality level, at least.

Power brakes, back then, were KNOWN to be "touchy", especially GM power brakes. I inherited a '70 Skylark from a great aunt. When I would move the car around in the driveway, the first brake application had to be done carefully (after driving a power disc/drum car) so I didn't eat steering wheel. But after I got past that, my actions adjusted and all was fine.

IF you are having a booster issue, that can happen whether there are drum brakes at all corners or not. For the brake fade concerns, you might try driving the car without wheel covers for possibly better brake cooling.

Just some thoughts and observations,for the above cheers

If you have the mechanicals adjusted properly, yet the booster self-applies "to the floor" when the engine starts, that is not supposed to happen. Yes, if you deplete the vacuum in the reservoir, when you start the engine with a firm pressure on the brake pedal, it will "sink" about 1/2" or less when the vacuum happens (as specified in many service literature items), that is normal, but not what you describe.

As to "brake fade in traffic", where the brakes are used to modulate vehicle speed, DO make sure that you are not following so close to the car in front that no air can get to the brakes for normal convective cooling. Plus getting some air through the radiator to keep the engine cool.

I'm not sure of the traffic patterns over there, but extended stop-and-go traffic should not be fading the brakes that much, compared to mountain driving, for example. No matter WHAT type of brake lining in being used. As long as it is OEM-quality level, at least.

Power brakes, back then, were KNOWN to be "touchy", especially GM power brakes. I inherited a '70 Skylark from a great aunt. When I would move the car around in the driveway, the first brake application had to be done carefully (after driving a power disc/drum car) so I didn't eat steering wheel. But after I got past that, my actions adjusted and all was fine.

IF you are having a booster issue, that can happen whether there are drum brakes at all corners or not. For the brake fade concerns, you might try driving the car without wheel covers for possibly better brake cooling.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

hi thanks for the above

 

[Cianmini1]

Hi th

Hi thank you for the above info

 

[MoPar~Man]

I recently did this for my '67 Monaco front drums, probably looks exactly the same as your '65.

Separated the hub from the drum, pressed in new studs (could have used the old ones, but the new studs were like $1.50 each). Removed the bearing races and installed new races and bearings and rear seal. Cleaned up the hub and painted back side and front with DOM-16 (same as POR-15). New brake hardware, shoes. This is a 2.75 inch shoe and drum. Backing plate (and knuckle, upper/lower control arms, entire stub frame was powder coated). Lower ball joints courtesy of Mobil Parts. I fussed over what grease to use, wondering if what I had was "the best". I figured I couldn't do much better. Mystic No. 6 High Temp NLGI-2 GC-LB spec lithium complex.

Brake drums bought locally - damage rate due to shipping / handling seems high, outer lip ring seems particularly vulnerable. if I buy locally I can inspect at time of purchase. This is a "WinHere" brand product. China. About $90 CAD each ($62 USD) before sales tax. My old front drums were mis-matched, one weighed 15.8 lbs, the other was a little heavier. These new drums are 20.5 lbs.