1964 Imperial

[Nick C]

I need some help from the group on this. I looking at a 1964 Imperial 4 door. I'm in love with it. What should I look for before buying one? Are there common areas of rust to be aware of? Any advice and pointer are appreciated. Also, what would be a fair price for it? Here are a few picks:

 

[Davea Lux]

Common rust areas were the rear window channel and the cowl. Rockers and fender/quarter radii appear solid. Check the trunk floor for rust. Frame in the photos has some surface rust but nothing structural that would cause problems. Car has A/C and power windows with a decent looking interior. Not enough information to give a realistic value: Mileage? Original paint? Working A/C? etc. Nice ones start at about $7.5k and go up from there depending on history and condition.

Dave

 

[Nick C]

Common rust areas were the rear window channel and the cowl. Rockers and fender/quarter radii appear solid. Check the trunk floor for rust. Frame in the photos has some surface rust but nothing structural that would cause problems. Car has A/C and power windows with a decent looking interior. Not enough information to give a realistic value: Mileage? Original paint? Working A/C? etc. Nice ones start at about $7.5k and go up from there depending on history and condition.

Dave

Thank you Dave. The A/C works. I will have more details after I talk with him. That will hopefully be tomorrow.

 

[3175375]

Thank you Dave. The A/C works. I will have more details after I talk with him. That will hopefully be tomorrow.

Fender tag

 

[mobileparts]

Imperials are spectacular cars -- extremely majestic.
The good side is: You are the KING of the road...

The bad side is -- some of their parts are very pricey...
But "It is what it is!!!"
That is why you are not buying a Chevelle or a Mustang...

Ask Detmatt -- He is the leading authority of Imperial s
On this site......

 

[marko]

i think this looks like a good one...... ive had many 64-66 imps, a couple of things that come to mind are :
the pw motors on these years do not interchange with any other years of imp or other mopar, so you will have to get non working motors rebuilt.
the panel between the rear window and trunk lid tend to rust out and its getting hard to find good ones.
i would recommend you replace the single master cyl with a dual circuit one, a 67 chrysler dual master for 4 wheel drum brake cars is recommended.
the car you are looking at looks in above average shape, i see the dash pad looks great and the steering wheel has no cracks that i can see - most of them do ( it can be up to 2k to restore them).
the 64 imperial body tag is different
with the help of a couple of other imp nuts ive put together a list of 64 imp option codes, i can send it you if you like.
or post a pic of the body tag, not the stainless vin tag.
i can also put you in touch with someone in CA to talk to, he knows more than i do; he is not on this site.

mark

 

[hergfest]

Your in California and looking at an Imperial from Minnesota? Find one closer to home, it will be cleaner I guarantee it.

 

[detmatt]

Imperials are spectacular cars -- extremely majestic.
The good side is: You are the KING of the road...

The bad side is -- some of their parts are very pricey...
But "It is what it is!!!"
That is why you are not buying a Chevelle or a Mustang...

Ask Detmatt -- He is the leading authority of Imperial s
On this site......

Well I wouldn’t go so far as to say that but thanks Craig, I’m working on it. My strongest suit is still the ‘67’s. This car looks nice, love that interior!

Your in California and looking at an Imperial from Minnesota? Find one closer to home, it will be cleaner I guarantee it.

This car doesn’t appear to have suffered from its location wherever it was.

 

[goldfish65]

MN folks tend to take very good care of their cars and only take them out in summer.

 

[CBODY67]

Looks like a nice car. The crested over-the-hump floor mats are a nice touch, BUT look under them for any carpet issues from accumulated moisture due to temperature swings, especially in the footwell areas, for good measure. The same reasons yuo always look under the rubberized or vinyl trunk mats. I suspect this car has trunk carpet?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Nick C]

Thanks for all the advice. I just Talked with him. He is a member here on C-Bodies. The car has been in the same family since new. He asked to buy it over 1 1/2 years ago and just got it recently. The only reason he bought it was because he told the owner that he would and felt obligated to do so. He is currently in the process of downsizing from about 20 Mopar's and is now down to just a few. All the window work but they move a little slow. He drove the car 150 mile with no problems. Oil pressure holds a 40 psi--even on a idle. He repaired and retrofitted the air conditioning to 134 and the heater works just fine. The rear springs were replaced by the previous owner along with the carrier bearing. Also the past owner bead blasted the drums and replaced the shoes. Currently the gasket on the tail shaft of the transmission leaks but he will have it repaired. The rear right door does not open. The gas gauge does not work. He mentioned that some of the some panels have been repainted and that there are minor scratches. The channels by the rear window he says are rust free along with the panel between the rear window and trunk lid. I will have some additional picks in the next few days.

These are some additional picks from his add:

 

[Nick C]

One more pic.

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the updates AND pictures, many of which show the car's beauty.

CBODY67

 

[mobileparts]

Good Luck Nick C,
If you go for it.....
Obviously, it needs a few things to be worked on, but what 56 year old is perfect? (Car or Person !!!)

 

[Nick C]

body tag. Hope it is readable enough. I should have more photo's tomorrow.

 

[Imperialist67]

Looks like a decent, presentable Imp. that you could drive and enjoy NOW, and bring it "to the next level" (if you were interested in that...) as you go. Of the '64-'66 "Drysdale era" (as I call them) Imps, the '64 is my fave. That black/grey interior sure is nice, and keeps it from being "too much black." I'd say check the rust spots noted above, give the underside a good once-over, and if it passes muster in those areas, go for it.

 

[Nick C]

Here is the picture of the trunk that the owner sent me. I also received a picture of the side. Both sides of the car have scratches all the way down the car. He suggested a wet sand and new paint on the sides as the scratcher are deep. The seller is asking 9K and turned down 7K from another party. My shipping would be between $1,100- 1,600. What do you guys think?

(not the best pic but it's the only one he sent)

(He said both side all the y down look like this)

 

[Davea Lux]

Here is the picture of the trunk that the owner sent me. I also received a picture of the side. Both sides of the car have scratches all the way down the car. He suggested a wet sand and new paint on the sides as the scratcher are deep. The seller is asking 9K and turned down 7K from another party. My shipping would be between $1,100- 1,600. What do you guys think?

(not the best pic but it's the only one he sent)
View attachment 399054


(He said both side all the y down look like this)
View attachment 399055

Those panels will need to be repainted as the scratches look to be all the way to the primer. Trunk floor has been rattle canned as part of the detail process. Repaint will probably entail doing the whole car as it is very difficult to match the factory single process paint with after market two stage clear coat paints. You will have $4500-$6000 to do the paint job right. At $9k this car is overpriced in its current condition. The $7k offer was about what this car is worth assuming it is solid mechanically. At $7k it is a feasible car to drive and have fun with. At $9k plus shipping, not so much. Another thing to consider is that the R-134a A/C conversion with an RV2 compressor is an accident waiting to happen, so sometime soon the car will need an expensive A/C upgrade.

Dave

 

[Nick C]

Those panels will need to be repainted as the scratches look to be all the way to the primer. Trunk floor has been rattle canned as part of the detail process. Repaint will probably entail doing the whole car as it is very difficult to match the factory single process paint with after market two stage clear coat paints. You will have $4500-$6000 to do the paint job right. At $9k this car is overpriced in its current condition. The $7k offer was about what this car is worth assuming it is solid mechanically. At $7k it is a feasible car to drive and have fun with. At $9k plus shipping, not so much. Another thing to consider is that the R-134a A/C conversion with an RV2 compressor is an accident waiting to happen, so sometime soon the car will need an expensive A/C upgrade.

Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the advice. I think you are right. Once shipping is added in it's not feasible. If the car was closer so that I could see it in person I might make a different decision. However, I will pass on this one.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Nick C]

Just spoke with the owner. He mentioned that he could have it shipped for $800. Sounded like he would possibly take 8K for the car but he is now talking about parting the car out. He also has a 67 convertible but it will need complete restoration. The owner seems like a nice guy but he also sounds like a professional dealer. When I offered to post his add here with us, he asked me not to as he is going to start parting it out.