SOLD 1965 - 1969 Mopar C Body Hinge Stop Arm Repair Kit Chrysler Dodge Imperial Plymouth

[danno54]

I am now making the parts to repair the hinge stop on 1965 - 1969 C body Mopars. I was contacted (from a recommendation through this forum) by a person who needed these parts to repair their hinges to proper function and because of that communication I have made a few of these parts in my home workshop. I am retired and do this as a hobby in my spare time and to provide parts that would not be otherwise available. I currently only have 10 kits available but I may make more if there is a need for them. The parts that are included in each kit are one roller, which is made from heat treated high carbon steel (this is important for longevity), one axle pin and one spring. The price is $40 per kit plus actual shipping cost. I have made the hinge stop repair kits for earlier Imperial models for quite a few years (I currently own a 1963). I'm located in Waukegan Illinois if anyone wants to pick up a kit or two and save the shipping cost. Here is the link to the eBay listing 1965 - 1969 Mopar C Body Hinge Stop Arm Repair Kit Plymouth Dodge Chrysler 66 67 | eBay .

 

[Xenon]

@danno54 , are you going to bring your '63 to the VOLO "C" body meet in June....?



.

 

[mrfury68]

Thanks for making these parts. Mine are in very good condition and well maintained. I will keep you in mind if someone needs a referral. I'd love to see pics of your Imperial.

 

[SPF Required]

Can these parts be installed with the doors on?

 

[danno54]

@danno54 , are you going to bring your '63 to the VOLO "C" body meet in June....?



.

Probably not but I'll probably attend the meet. Is it at the auto museum?
I brought a white 63 Crown Imperial coupe there a few ago for a car corral.

 

[danno54]

Thanks for making these parts. Mine are in very good condition and well maintained. I will keep you in mind if someone needs a referral. I'd love to see pics of your Imperial.

Thanks. Good maintenance is so important... keep well lubed. I think the failures come mainly from lack of lubrication. Here's an example of what happens without good maintenance...

 

[danno54]

Can these parts be installed with the doors on?

Yes. I've never done one on the car myself but I hear reports that it can be done without taking anything apart.

 

[SPF Required]

I went and looked at what the access might be like installing this with the door in place, it is definitely going to be tight. While I was investigating, it turns out I have no roller installed! A busted center pin and rusty spring is there, but no roller so you will see an order from me in a moment, one for each door.

If anyone has installed one of these with the door in place, please feel free to post any tips and tricks.

Thanks for making these!

 

[danno54]

I went and looked at what the access might be like installing this with the door in place, it is definitely going to be tight. While I was investigating, it turns out I have no roller installed! A busted center pin and rusty spring is there, but no roller so you will see an order from me in a moment, one for each door.

If anyone has installed one of these with the door in place, please feel free to post any tips and tricks.

Thanks for making these!

Thanks for the order. It has been shipped. I don't know if it's appropriate for c body hinges but one trick that helps to install the spring on the late 50's to mid 60's Imperials is to insert an appropriate size washer between each coil of the spring. This expands it enough so it isn't necessary to stretch the spring by pulling on it to install it. After both ends of the spring are where they should be, closing the door will expand the spring enough to release the washers. To insert the washers just clamp one end of the spring in a vise, clamp some vise grips on the other end and pull the spring open while inserting the washers. You may not have put a washer in between each coil to get the spring to expand enough to make installation easier. An alternative to using washers is to fasten an appropriate length of wire on one end of the spring, hook one end of the spring in place and pull the wire with vise grips until the other end of the spring can be hooked into place. A 3/16" pin punch is what I use to drive the axle pin out when the hinge is on the bench but I don't know if there is enough access while the hinge is on the car. Be sure to lube the axle pin and roller before installation and put a little lube on the outside of the roller too. Good luck

 

[M0esy]

Danno54, this is what I need for my '67 300. And if there is a bushing for the upper hinge to repair the slop in the drivers door, I would be able to make it work like new.
Thank for your making this kit. I'll try to scrape some funds to purchase 1 kit from you.

 

[danno54]

Danno54, this is what I need for my '67 300. And if there is a bushing for the upper hinge to repair the slop in the drivers door, I would be able to make it work like new.
Thank for your making this kit. I'll try to scrape some funds to purchase 1 kit from you.

Thanks. I believe the bronze bushings are available. The diameter of the hinge pin is 11/32 or 0.3437". (in my experience the pins are about 0.001" smaller than that or about 0.3425").

 

[FURYGT]

Thanks for making these. Just bought one.

 

[SPF Required]

Delivered today… one kit for each door. I know what I’ll be doing this weekend!

 

[Blackrifle]

A video tutorial on install would be great.

 

[SPF Required]

Too difficult to do a video being that I am doing this solo, but I do have pics. Definitely tight doing it with the door installed, but not impossible.

Existing condition:

No roller, just a busted pin and spring:

I had to open the spring just a bit to get it to hold on the hinge:

 

[SPF Required]

Took the advice given and threaded a wire up from the bottom hole, through the roller, out of the top hole, then through the pin.

Just an example:

Beginning install:

 

[SPF Required]

Took a while to figure out how to knock the pin in because I could not get direct access to the top because of the wire loom (electric windows). Settled on my hand held demo bar and tapped it gingerly with hammer.

 

[SPF Required]

Reinstalling the spring was the easiest park (for me). Didn’t need to do anything special to try and get it to fit into the hinge or over the hood open comb.

All seems to fit together nicely.

But! When I went to test it all…. Nada! The door doesn’t hold open. Everything moves as expected. I see the spring flex in position 1 and 2, but the door still closes. Me think the bumps on the comb are worn down to smooth little nubs. Fixing that doesn’t not look like something that can be done with the door on.

 

[SPF Required]

All in all though, this is a great kit that @danno54 has put together.

If anyone has a secret to replacing that hold open comb, let us know!

 

[danno54]

I am currently out of stock but I will have more by the middle of July... with an improved spring.