1965 300L

[Haney]

I am a new member here but a long time Mopar guy. I have owned A's, B's, E's and Dodge trucks my whole life but never a C. Sadly, my wife's uncle passed away and I have acquired his 1965 300L. Due to many reasons, it has sat for the last 15 years. I have gotten it home, cleaned it out and pressure washed from head to toe. I really don't think it is in bad shape for the year and the fact that it has sat outside, unmoved for years. It needs a passenger side floor pan. The other rust is in the lower front of each door and the drivers rear lower quarter. The trunk is great! Trunk lid has a rust hole on the underside just above the taillights. It was a factory white car from the factory but was painted black sometime a LONG time ago. The interior is really not all that bad. All the door panels are usable. Needs carpet and headliner for sure. Windows don't work. It is a 413, Auto, 8 3/4 car. It has a factory Prestolite dual point distributor, but I have a conversion kit coming for it. I plan to rebuild the carb, put in ignition, change fluids and then start it. It cranks fine. Here is a what is left of the only buildsheet that survived. Can someone decode for me? I hope to get it running and then I don't know. I will most likely be for sale. But not before I get to ride it.

 

[Big_John]

Welcome and that car has some real potential.

 

[Snotty]

Looks a lot better cleaned up!

One of my favorite cars - good for you!!

Sorry about the Uncle.

 

[stubs300]

If those are the same tires, both dirty & clean and 15+ years old. I'd replace them before taking it out on the road. I'd hate to see something bad happen. Good Luck

 

[detmatt]

Sharp car, love the roofline! Skirts in the trunk?

 

[Snotty]

Sharp car, love the roofline! Skirts in the trunk?

Didn't notice that. The passenger side is on in the one picture.

 

[detmatt]

Didn't notice that. The passenger side is on in the one picture.

Ah yes, so it is. After I scrolled down to the 3rd pic I never went back up to look at the chia-pet version again.

 

[Davea Lux]

I am a new member here but a long time Mopar guy. I have owned A's, B's, E's and Dodge trucks my whole life but never a C. Sadly, my wife's uncle passed away and I have acquired his 1965 300L. Due to many reasons, it has sat for the last 15 years. I have gotten it home, cleaned it out and pressure washed from head to toe. I really don't think it is in bad shape for the year and the fact that it has sat outside, unmoved for years. It needs a passenger side floor pan. The other rust is in the lower front of each door and the drivers rear lower quarter. The trunk is great! Trunk lid has a rust hole on the underside just above the taillights. It was a factory white car from the factory but was painted black sometime a LONG time ago. The interior is really not all that bad. All the door panels are usable. Needs carpet and headliner for sure. Windows don't work. It is a 413, Auto, 8 3/4 car. It has a factory Prestolite dual point distributor, but I have a conversion kit coming for it. I plan to rebuild the carb, put in ignition, change fluids and then start it. It cranks fine. Here is a what is left of the only buildsheet that survived. Can someone decode for me? I hope to get it running and then I don't know. I will most likely be for sale. But not before I get to ride it.

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These were a really nice road cruiser in their day. After sitting for 15 years, you will need to clean out the fuel tank because it is probably full of sludge. Replace all wheel cylinders and the master cylinder and hoses before you try to go anyplace. I would give each cylinder on the engine about a 1oz shot of marvel mystery oil, that will lube the cylinders so the rings do not suffer damage on start up. Belts and hoses should be replaced and fresh coolant installed. While you are messing with the ignition, that is a good time to check the timing chain also. As you noted, fuel pump should be replaced and the carb should be rebuilt. You can download the Field Service Manual for this car for free at www.mymopar.com. Manuals are in the tools/reference section. Good luck. You need to get a better photo of the build sheet before someone can decode it.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

Welcome and a nice car, now and when it's better.

In addition to www.mymopar.com, the www.jholst.net website is concerned with the 300 Letter Cars, 1955-1965. Lots of information there, including parts books and service information. Plus the www.hamtramck-historical.com website, too.

Keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67

 

[Haney]

Sharp car, love the roofline! Skirts in the trunk?

Yes! Both skirts in the trunk!

 

[300L]

I like to see another 300L coming back on the road.
At that time, these cars were made with great care and good material.
That's probably why he survived the 15 years relatively well.

Good luck with your projekt...

 

[Haney]

So, due to other projects, I may go ahead and sell the 300L. What is this car worth? 413 runs, tranny shifts, needs tires and brakes. Not very rusty.

 

[Ripinator]

So, due to other projects, I may go ahead and sell the 300L. What is this car worth? 413 runs, tranny shifts, needs tires and brakes. Not very rusty.

Shown below is a guide you should look at. Bear in mind, it is just a guide and is not gospel, but it is someplace where you can start to do an evaluation of your car:

Current Value | 1965 Chrysler 300L Value

Based on the pictures you posted and the repairs you have made so far, I would say the car is a sub No. 4 car. It still appears to need a lot of additional work to get the car to score above the No. 4 level.

 

[BigblueC]

Condition definitions from collectorcarmarket.com as linked above by @Ripinator

Condition Guidelines
These are condition guidelines to help assess a vehicle's condition. Keep in mind that there are many factors that affect value. For example, a "barn find" may on the surface look like a #4 or #5 vehicle, but it's time capsule character often means it is worth far more than it's condition would normally warrant.

#1 Excellent: A close to perfect original or a very well restored vehicle. Generally a body-off restoration, but a well done body-on restoration that has been extensively detailed may qualify. The vehicle is stunning to look at and any flaws are trivial and not readily apparent. Everything works as new. All equipment is original, NOS, or excellent quality reproductions. Note: cost no object concours restorations should be considered 1+ condition.

#2 Very Good: An extremely presentable vehicle showing minimal wear, or a well restored vehicle. Runs and drives smooth and tight. Needs no mechanical or cosmetic work. All areas (chassis not required) have been fully detailed. Beautiful to look at but clearly below a #1 vehicle.

#3 Good: Presentable inside and out with some signs of wear. Not detailed but very clean. Body should be straight and solid with no apparent rust and absolutely no rust-through anywhere. Shiny, attractive paint but may have evidence of minor fading or checking or other imperfections. Runs and drives well. May need some minor mechanical or cosmetic work but is fully usable and enjoyable as is.

#4 Fair: Runs and drives OK but needs work throughout the vehicle. Body shows signs of wear or previous restoration work. Any rust should be minimal and not in any structural areas. Conversely, the vehicle may be fairly presentable, but needs moderate mechanical work to be roadworthy. Cosmetics, body, and mechanics all need work to some degree.

#5 Poor: In need of complete restoration, but is complete and not a rust bucket beyond repair. May or may not run. Not even close to roadworthy. Values for #5 cars are best estimated on a case by case basis, typically around 40-50% of the #4 condition. Rare models or models containg rare parts can be worth more. or forty years ago would likely fall short on the show field today. Regardless, now--as then--these vehicles have been treated to a very expensive concours quality, frame-off, no expensed spared, nut & bolt restoration and do not get driven. They can often command higher prices than CCMR's standard #1 value.

Parts or Salvage: Incomplete vehicle most useful for parts. Generally, take 50-60% of the #5 value

Looking at their values for a different car that I keep up with actual market sale on they seem to be reasonably accurate in values.

 

[Hubie]

Shown below is a guide you should look at. Bear in mind, it is just a guide and is not gospel, but it is someplace where you can start to do an evaluation of your car:

Current Value | 1965 Chrysler 300L Value

Based on the pictures you posted and the repairs you have made so far, I would say the car is a sub No. 4 car. It still appears to need a lot of additional work to get the car to score above the No. 4 level.

Based on BigBlueC explaination I think your car is between a 4 and 5 . However this value is just a guideline . Still a car with lots of potential.

 

[pomonamissel]

welcome sweet 'L'

 

[Rexer]

Welcome to the site. This is the place to learn about your new old car. I love the 65 300s

 

[michiganhotrod1]

A 413 with A/C. What's not to like?

 

[Hubie]

Where are you listing you 300 for sale ?

 

[Haney]

I have not listed it yet.