1965-66 sport fury

[rkrochen]

Dead end road, no traffic otherwise I agree. I drove a tow truck for a while and it isn’t one of my best experiences.

 

[rkrochen]

So it’s that time of year here. Roughly-27C and getting colder (-18f) so we are packing our bags and heading to Belize for 6 weeks. Catch up to you all when I get back.

 

[LostinFL]

Heres an update of a little bit of paint. Not a pro but a lot better than before!

 

[Davea Lux]

Looks good.

Dave

 

[LostinFL]

Still at it guys!

 

[LostinFL]

New carb who is thissss

 

[James Romano]

Looks great! Keep posting pics of the progress.

 

[rkrochen]

New carb who is thissss

View attachment 322811

Nice looking car

New carb who is thissss

View attachment 322811

Great looking car. Love the colour it suits the car. Just noticed that I don’t see the transmission kick down linkage in the picture. Maybe it is there and I just can’t see it. If not you need to put one on ASAP or your tranny will burn up.

 

[LostinFL]

Off to body and paint!

 

[Sixpactogo]

Nice looking car

Great looking car. Love the colour it suits the car. Just noticed that I don’t see the transmission kick down linkage in the picture. Maybe it is there and I just can’t see it. If not you need to put one on ASAP or your tranny will burn up.

I agree.......... Don't drive it without that kick down linkage in place. Also, what happened to the dual master cylinder? I know the single was stock for 66 but I would have stuck with the upgrade.

 

[James Romano]

I have to agree... for the cost of a new dual MC and doing the conversion, which is easy... you're better off. If you want the OEM look, like it's meant to be there.... go with a unit from a '67 Dual Drum MoPar. You can get all the fittings and lines that go from MC to the distribution block from NAPA. Bend the lines yourself with hand bender.

Don't go cheap on the stuff that will cost you your life. Good luck on the car... she's a looker for sure!

 

[LostinFL]

Little sneak peak before picking it up from paint/body!

 

[LostinFL]

It’s been a longggg road

 

[LostinFL]

Back in the shop - 318 gets put back in This week also looking for some nice wheels/tire options

 

[James Romano]

Car looks cool!

Did your body guy give you back the skirt pins? I could use them if you don't need them anymore. Most of mine snapped when I removed them. Thanks.

 

[LostinFL]

I have a box of trim and pins I’d have to look! I’ll keep you posted!

 

[James Romano]

I have a box of trim and pins I’d have to look! I’ll keep you posted!

Cool! Thanks!

 

[LostinFL]

Pins were destroyed sorry bud

 

[James Romano]

Pins were destroyed sorry bud

All of them? I have 4 good ones .. if any are good, I'll take them.

 

[Thad dude]

The car is cool! Well done!!

The 318 Poly is a great motor, and will be very pleasant to drive. You have special bits like chromed valve covers and the much covetted Weiand 4 barrel intake manifold. Nice score! Measure the diametre of the carb and the distance between the carb and the hood when closed and you should be able to find an air cleaner that fits. Double check that the transmission to carb kickdown linkage is properly adjusted, as if NOT can quickly result in transmission trouble. This is NOT an option.

I see a vacuum port in front of the carb that should be plugged or eliminated.

Another excellent upgrade somebody has already done for you is the dual curcuit brake master cylinder. Safety first! 67 Fury drum brake master cylinder is a good replacement.

Here's a short check list of things to go over:

Download a factory service manual.

Have a qualified mechanic go through the braking system front to back, and replace any suspect components (wheel cylinders, adjuster kits, brake shoes and drums). The master looks crusty - if it checks out OK, fine, but it's an easy replacement - just use a 1967 Fury drum brake master and it will bolt right up. Flush and replace the brake fluid. Consider replacing all rubber flex lines. Blerd the system properly after replacing any brake system hydraulic component or the master.

Consider a front disc brake upgrade for more safety - easy bolt in stuff. Good articles here on how to.

Have a qualified mechanic inspect and replace any steering components if required. Ball joints, tie rods, pitman and idler arms.

Check the allignment.

Check and replace if uncertain ALL rubber hoses and belts - fuel, radiator, heater hoses, fan belts, power steering pressure and return lines if so eqipped. Check the radiator for corrosion - recore if suspect. Flush and replace all fluids. It looks like you have a 26" rad in place if what should be a 22" rad, with an incirrect upper rad hose... no biggie, but it suggests other "cobbled together" things.

New fuel filter. New fuel pump.

Rebuild the carb.

New spark plugs, plug wires, and consider upgrading to a simple electronic ignition system like Pertronix for hassle free driving.

Look for any tired, pinched, cut, corroded, cobbled together or otherwise suspect wiring underhood and under the dash.

Check and clean the bulkhead connectors, and consider the M.A.D. Bypass upgrade - search this forum for the process. This is a big safety upgrade to reduce the chance of an electrical fire - the bulkhead and alternator arrangement is a weak point.

Check and replace if required the steering column rubber flex joint (under the round cover near the firewall).

Byy the $20 kit and rebuild your steering column sliding joint near the steering box.

Check your tires are good and enjoy!

Most important - ask any and all questions here - the silliest question is the one you didn't ask.

More pics of your car please!

I know that this is a very old post but I see that you are still very active in the forum so I was hoping that I could crack that brilliant brain of yours. I just curated this 4bbl manifold and hope to bring my old girl back to life. Do you know of a bolt kit available for a 318 poly? Anything else you might add? Are there stickers available for the valve covers?