1966 300 & Similar: Kickdown Linkage Questions

[traintech55]

If you can find an original throttle linkage shaft or carb you would be golden. From your pictures it looks like the throttle adapter bracket is bent. A new one is very cheep and would move the linkage in line. I would send you pictures of my 66 linkage but you already have some.

 

[traintech55]

Also looking at your pictures again The adapter bracket does not look like the eddy bracket, probably a cheap knock off.

 

[Boomer]

yep, well...just discovered pretty much what you wrote.

Drilled out the outer side of that bracket to accept the large linkage pin. Then discovered - it doesn't matter, since the 7/16ths nut is apparently a molded part of the pin, so it's too long to get through from the back side due to the limited space between the brackets. Figured I would at least get the throttle cable aluminum jacket back into the clamp properly. Nope - with the pin back in the only place it will fit, pulling the cable back in opens the throttle before you ever touch the pedal.

Also found out that with the two original (guessing here) smaller springs in place and bed spring removed, the pedal is really limp and soggy feeling.

So I re-kludged it for now, the only improvement being the kickdown linkage is reinstalled and has a spring to pull it back the way it belongs. Still need to get a C clip to keep it from popping off the smaller pin. Hoping the adjustment is right because it looks like it's screwed all the way in.

Heading back out now to see if I can get the electric choke to work. Having power to it would be a good start, I bet.

 

[Boomer]

Oh yeah - I thought I could at least flip the larger pin so the throttle cable would line up (can't just move it to the other side, pin is too large on that side)? Nope - longer pin hits to carb body when you try to open the throttle.

At this point I'm inclined to think an original replacement carb be the best bet.

 

[65 500]

I agree with the original carb idea.
Also, do NOT drive your car much without the kickdown linkage hooked up, it will screw your transmission up eventually.

 

[rags]

the picture in post #7 shows what you should achieve with your current carb. looked up in jegs the adapter that might be right for you. throttle lever adapter, edelbrock 1843.

 

[Boomer]

Thanks rags - looked at it while I was back out there and of course the nut is on the opposite side of the carb, so it looks like I'd have to pull the carb and partially disassemble it to change the adapter. Will give it some thought.

Also, do NOT drive your car much without the kickdown linkage hooked up, it will screw your transmission up eventually.

A buddy mentioned that as well. While I have no idea how much it was driven that way previously, I've put maybe 4-5 miles on it doing simple tests around the neighborhood here. The seller said it had been parked since he got it, only started up for moving around.

Got 10.5 volts going to the electric choke directly from the ballast resistor connection. Saw no movement. How does this choke work? Does it always start closed, then open as the internal coil warms it up, staying hot while the car is on? Or is it supposed to close the choke as soon as voltage is applied? Seems if this were the case, the choke would be closed as long as power was applied. I left it on for a while, no movement toward opening.

I'm done for today. Off to get gas tomorrow for the car and tractor, mowing season is almost here.

 

[Polara_500]

A thermostatic spring closes the choke, when cold you 'set' it by depressing the gas pedal about 1/2 way and releasing. When power is applied to the choke it heats that spring causing it to gradually allow the choke to relax. You want power to it only while the key is on for that reason.

 

[Boomer]

Thanks - that's pretty much the only way that made sense, but having zero hands on experience with electric chokes it seemed better to ask.

I recall setting the choke with the original stock choke by pressing the pedal once or twice, but it's been so many years I really can't say for sure.

Need to fire it up tomorrow and see if it cycles properly. Something has been making it start really hard, as in ether hard.

 

[Dobalovr]

10.5 volts going to the electric choke directly from the ballast resistor connection

That Eddy will need 12v with key on to work properly. Try pulling it from starter relay. Ive got this model on both the '66 and '70 and had to use the Eddy adapter mentioned above 1843.

 

[Boomer]

I've got it coming directly off the ballast connection now that feeds the coil, 10.8 volts or such. Scoped out the starter relay online, will check that later today and see if it works better. TNX for the tip!

 

[rexus31]

Just get the correct carb and be done with it!

 

[300rag]

I've got it coming directly off the ballast connection now that feeds the coil, 10.8 volts or such. Scoped out the starter relay online, will check that later today and see if it works better. TNX for the tip!

You should be using the other side of the ballast to get the feed.

 

[Boomer]

It actually is - I screwed up in my description because I saw the blue wire on the coil and confused it with the black/white tracer where I hooked up the wire. Doesn't matter though, as both sides of the ballast read 10.1 volts today! Something else to replace.

Good news, though - after dumping 5 gallons of non-ethanol high test into the tank and cranking her over a bunch of times, she finally started. Running rough, stumbling, and sometimes I need to pump the pedel to keep it running, but at least we're back to square one and not loosing anymore ground.

Original carb is likely in the future but between the cost of either buying a rebuilt carb ready to bolt on or a rebuildable core, kit, shipping, and rarest of all - time to do it, it's not practical for me right now. I'm barely eeking out time to do very basic stuff. I'm not even sure which carb it uses - 4131?

And more good news - the choke worked fine. Had the air cleaner off and could see the door slooowly opening up as it got warmer. Side of the choke feels warm, too.

Might have to do an update to the Road Shark thread at some point, now.

 

[dart4forte]

Need some help from other owners of 300s or models with the same linkage/carb setup for the transmission kickdown. Mine arrived disconnected and when I finally got a chance to look it over this past weekend, I discovered a few things.

First, with the stock crab swapped out for the Edlebrock, instead of one pin for throttle and kickdown (according to the service manual illustration, at lest), this carb has two. Looks like it could easily fit up on the same main pin where the throttle cable is attached, or down below where a large spring now resides.

Second, the original return spring is missing. No idea where to find something like this. The throttle spring looks a bit tired as well so maybe I can track down the pair.

There's a large black spring added to the side and hooked where the return spring would go on the front bracket.

Lastly, no matter where I try to hook the linkage arm, it drags on the vacuum booster hose. The arm actually has a small elbow bend in it so I'm wondering if perhaps someone swapped it around to try to line up with the outisde pin on the Edlebrock crab. Should the elbow face up or down? And which side of the pivot arm should it be clipped to?

I actually placed it on one of the pins just to see if it would fit and left it there. When I started the car later and revved the engine a bit, the car would edge backward a bit, even though it was in Park. Removed the linkage and it stopped. I know the missing return spring is likely the culprit here, but wondering if it might be pointing at other problems too.

Adjusting it properly will be another matter, once it is hooked up properly and operating freely.

Photos attached. Anyone have a shot or two of their linkage for comparison?

View attachment 66089

View attachment 66090

View attachment 66091

 

[dart4forte]

Need some help from other owners of 300s or models with the same linkage/carb setup for the transmission kickdown. Mine arrived disconnected and when I finally got a chance to look it over this past weekend, I discovered a few things.

First, with the stock crab swapped out for the Edlebrock, instead of one pin for throttle and kickdown (according to the service manual illustration, at lest), this carb has two. Looks like it could easily fit up on the same main pin where the throttle cable is attached, or down below where a large spring now resides.

Second, the original return spring is missing. No idea where to find something like this. The throttle spring looks a bit tired as well so maybe I can track down the pair.

There's a large black spring added to the side and hooked where the return spring would go on the front bracket.

Lastly, no matter where I try to hook the linkage arm, it drags on the vacuum booster hose. The arm actually has a small elbow bend in it so I'm wondering if perhaps someone swapped it around to try to line up with the outisde pin on the Edlebrock crab. Should the elbow face up or down? And which side of the pivot arm should it be clipped to?

I actually placed it on one of the pins just to see if it would fit and left it there. When I started the car later and revved the engine a bit, the car would edge backward a bit, even though it was in Park. Removed the linkage and it stopped. I know the missing return spring is likely the culprit here, but wondering if it might be pointing at other problems too.

Adjusting it properly will be another matter, once it is hooked up properly and operating freely.

Photos attached. Anyone have a shot or two of their linkage for comparison?

View attachment 66089

View attachment 66090

View attachment 66091

I havent been on ths site for quite some time so please excuse me if I add my 2 cents.

First, go to Herbs Parts

 

[dart4forte]

First, go to Herbs Parts, www.herbsparts.com. There you will find the correct throttle return springs, brackets and kickdown return spring.

Second, here's the procedure for adjusting your kickdown linkage. This is explained in my own words and not quoted from the manual. The manual is actually confusing and leaves out a step.

The first step in the manual is to disconnect the kickdown lever from the carb linkage. Next disconnect the rod from the bell crank on the transmission to the transmission lever. Next, underneath the car lock the trans lever forward. That's the lever below the selector lever. I used a wire tie to make that happen Next, line up the adjustment holes on the throttle lever and place a 3/16" drill bit in the hole. This will lock the transmission lever into the adjustment position. Next, adjust the rod from the bellcrank to the trans lever and snap it to the throttle lever. You can now go back underneath the car and release the trans lever. Go back up top and remove the 3/16" drill bit.

The next step is to adjust the flat, slotted rod at the carb. This will be a hit and miss procedure. The manual says to adjust it while "at rest". I understand that to mean at idle position, or closed throttle. Re-attach the kick down lever to the carb. Take the car out for a drive and note the speed in which 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd take place. This will require driving, stopping and starting several times until you get the required adjustment. You may want to do this on a side street where there's no traffic. This tranny should shift through the gears within 10-12 mph range. If not, then in order to get the transmission to shift later adjust the rod out. I went two turns at a time. If the transmission is shifting at around 15-20 MPH then the rod should be adjusted inward. I should not that if you like your tranny shifting at a higher RPM leave it alone. However you will see that there's a limited amount of rod threads to properly adjust.

Now take the car out on the open road and test the kickdown. You may have to run through this process several time to get the correct kickdown results.