rd92west
plan C
another stupid question. were can a person buy a new stub?
1966 canadian polara 880
- Thread starter rd92west
- Start date
Bill Watson
Active Member
Concerning the 1965-1973 C body Plymouths and Dodges -
The C body Plymouth Fury used the 44" bars from 1965 to 1973, 6 and V8 models, as did the 6 cylinder C body Dodge Polara and Monaco for 1965-73.
Canadian market C body 8 cylinder Dodge Polara/Monaco models used 44" bars in 1965-66 with the 1967-71 8 cylinder models using 47" bars.
47" bars were used on U.S. market C body 8 cylinder Dodge Polara/Monaco models in 1965-71.
All C body Dodges used the 44" bars in 1972 and 1973, 6 and V8.
From 1965-73 the U.S. plants built C body Dodges and Plymouths for the U.S. market and 1970 (starting Nov 1969) to 1973 models for the Canadian market.
The Windsor plant built Canadian market C body Plymouths and Dodges for 1965-1969 plus 1970 models to Nov 1969 and the U.S. market from 1967 to 1970 (ending Nov 1969).
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Most of us simply turn rocks over until they find one.
In the US most look to Murray B. Park in Ohio or post in the wanted section and there is sometimes a positive response..
There are resto mod kits out there but they are very pricey...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
rd92west
plan C
i was just curious about if a new stub was available. my 880 stub is in real good shape.
I am trying it decide if I return the 47 inch bars or keep them in case I attack the polara 500 some day. I will order a set of 44's this morning and decide then.
Bill, I really appreciate your overview of torsion bar aplications, thanks.
can anybody tell me if there is any interchange between stubs of various years of c bodies? I have 68 and 69 and 72 Monaco's in the collection of project cars.
I am trying it decide if I return the 47 inch bars or keep them in case I attack the polara 500 some day. I will order a set of 44's this morning and decide then.
Bill, I really appreciate your overview of torsion bar aplications, thanks.
can anybody tell me if there is any interchange between stubs of various years of c bodies? I have 68 and 69 and 72 Monaco's in the collection of project cars.
rd92west
plan C
that's very interesting Commando. I will put the link into the favorites. I am looking forward to see if the FirmFeel upgrade is everything that I have been told it is. the whole package aint cheap.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Personally, I feel there is nothing sexier that an original stub frame fully restored to it's shiny satin black finish and all new components.
1Fury1
Slab Side Slacker
This is my 66 Fury with all new Firm Feel components. Went with heavier torsion bars, 1 1/8 as I recall. Manual steering box. Did the rear leafs from FF as well. It rides and handles wonderful.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
At least Ron is giving the C bodies some love, I didn't check the price the price but I can only imagine
rd92west
plan C
I have to agree that the original setup is my favorite. I phoned firmfeel yesterday and explained my screw up with torsion bar length. Matt told me he should has caught it. i told him **** happens. anyhow i have a pair of 44 inch 1.06 diameter bars headed this way. i went whole hog and got their steering box, complete front suspension upgrade and rearleafs. i see there are a few other suppliers of mopar suspension kits. i must say the guys at Firm Feel are the true cream of the crop.
1fury1, did you use your original pump.
1fury1, did you use your original pump.
rd92west
plan C
1fury1, i just re read your post. manual steering box. i have a power box and plan to lower the pressure.
1Fury1
Slab Side Slacker
Firm Feel were very helpful to me and the components are first rate. Make sure to get polyurethane bushings as well. Lower the pressure from your ps pump? How and why?
You can change the boost valve on the pressure line on the pump. By lowering the pressure it takes away the soft/touchy steering C bodies are plagued with. Thus giving you more roadfeel and some may argue better handling characteristics.
rd92west
plan C
the magnum force front stub is 7500 bucks. or around there.
rd92west
plan C
I am sure I saw the lowering of the steering pump pressure discussed here somewere. the best explaination of "how" is a article that Richard Ehrinburg did in mopar action. do a google search. type in "pump it down, mopar action" and hit search. its a very simple procedure. the article also explains "why"
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
does lowering the PS pressure reduce the end play travel in the steering shaft?
rd92west
plan C
looks to me that firm feel address's the endplay issue with their rebuilt steering box. I have been led to believe that a rebuilt box and lower pressure do wonderfull things for C body boats. heavier torsion bars, increased caster and beefy sway bars help as well. I am really looking forward to road testing the FF setup. hopefully later this fall.
rd92west
plan C
I have a 66 dodge addiction. hauled in the latest today, a Canadian Monaco,. its 100% complete and unmolested. 318 poly that wont turn over. bit of rust in the usual spots. buckets and floor shift. this one makes 3 so far this year. and just short of 4 months left.
Are you in competition with @LocuMob ?
rd92west
plan C
its bizarre, these cars are finding me. I put a good battery in, cleaned the battery clamps and tried it. just clicked. the 3rd time I seen the fan move slightly. somebody has been trying to get it running. 7 spark plugs are on the intake manifold. the guy I got it from said the original owner told him the engine had been overhauled, it has fresh red paint. the trans is dry and clean. it shows 54 thou miles and its claimed to be original. so I expect it got rings, bearing and a valve job.
so I wonder why 1 plug is still in. for no reason I remove it. then I get a 2nd battery and cables. hit the key again, on the 3rd try the engine lets go and aprox 3 cups of diesel fuel blow out of the cylinder that had the spark plug. I figure there was kind of a hydraulic lock. 2 closed valves.
I cleaned the plugs and put them back in. cranked it and it sounded ok. I disconnected the rubber hose at ther fuel pump to keep the old gas were it is. I poured fuel in the carb and it fired up like it ran last week. I have a carb issue likely from shitty fuel.
the radio works. heater fan purrs. rear window defogger works like new. alternator puts out. I do know it is going to need a master cylinder and at the very least a wheel brake inspection. I am just going to do the bare minimum so I can drive it a little and focus on the 880 for now.
I am hopeing Bill Watson will shed some light on difference between USA and Canada built Monaco's. the owners manual only says Monaco, no mention off a Monaco 500.
deffinatly not in competition with LocoMob
I must admit I would like to have a convertible some day. and have always wanted a 4 speed car.
I have DODGE FEVER eh
so I wonder why 1 plug is still in. for no reason I remove it. then I get a 2nd battery and cables. hit the key again, on the 3rd try the engine lets go and aprox 3 cups of diesel fuel blow out of the cylinder that had the spark plug. I figure there was kind of a hydraulic lock. 2 closed valves.
I cleaned the plugs and put them back in. cranked it and it sounded ok. I disconnected the rubber hose at ther fuel pump to keep the old gas were it is. I poured fuel in the carb and it fired up like it ran last week. I have a carb issue likely from shitty fuel.
the radio works. heater fan purrs. rear window defogger works like new. alternator puts out. I do know it is going to need a master cylinder and at the very least a wheel brake inspection. I am just going to do the bare minimum so I can drive it a little and focus on the 880 for now.
I am hopeing Bill Watson will shed some light on difference between USA and Canada built Monaco's. the owners manual only says Monaco, no mention off a Monaco 500.
deffinatly not in competition with LocoMob
I must admit I would like to have a convertible some day. and have always wanted a 4 speed car.
I have DODGE FEVER eh
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