1966 Chrysler 300 Resto-mod

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C-Body

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I am new to the C-Body Forum and I am looking for some advice on resto-moding, an all original, I am the 2nd owner 1966 300 4 dr 383. I found a lot of information and responses to starting restoration projects, but I was not able to find follow-up or conclusions to these. Simply put, I want a 50 year old car, kept discreet, perform and drive like a new car and need to understand how to do it right...and call me crazy but I love this body style and I do not want to do just another Cuda, Superbee, Charger muscle car.

Therefore, please forgive if these questions/concerns have already been answered in the forum, but I need help in the following areas:


  • Will 1966 C-Body accept new HEMI/Transmission drive train?
  • Does 1966 C-Body have enough rigidity in the frame to support new HEMI/Transmission drive train / HP torque etc? (I'm thinking 6.1L)
  • Where can I find specifications/dimensions for both 1966 frame and new Chrysler frame?
  • What suspension upgrades will I need to keep stance low but maintain ride quality?
  • What Disc brake packages are out there?
  • ...or should/could I get a wrecked SRT8 300C and take Engine/Trans/Rear end out and drop it in 1966 Chrysler?

I am aware that a project like this can run away quickly with exorbitant costs if I make the wrong decisions and get wrapped into pie in the sky dreams. My ears and attitude are wide open to any responses. So, I look forward to your experience and expert advice.

Thanks in advance

1966 Chrsyler 300.jpg

1966 Chrsyler 300.jpg
 
Welcome. When it comes to a car as nice as that, a total rebuild of stock components will be far easier, cheaper, more satisfying, and Pro-Tour with the best of them.
Rebuild the front end, steering, and suspension and it will track like a Viper with the right components.
Upgrade the fronts to discs and rebuild the rears.
Rebuild a nice 440 and the TorqueFlite.
My stock New Yorker can go coast to coast more reliably than any $50k Pro - Tourer.
Its not an Impala. It's a Chrysler C-body, a world unto its own.
Pick one project and we'll guide you step-by-step. It's been done a hundred times before by The Best & the Brightest here Forget all the Chevy crap you ever learned. That has been the biggest problem of people jumping into their first C-body. Then they give up in total failure ½ way through.
 
C-Body said:
I am new to the C-Body Forum and I am looking for some advice on resto-moding, an all original, I am the 2nd owner 1966 300 4 dr 383. I found a lot of information and responses to starting restoration projects, but I was not able to find follow-up or conclusions to these. Simply put, I want a 50 year old car, kept discreet, perform and drive like a new car and need to understand how to do it right...and call me crazy but I love this body style and I do not want to do just another Cuda, Superbee, Charger muscle car.

Therefore, please forgive if these questions/concerns have already been answered in the forum, but I need help in the following areas:


  • Will 1966 C-Body accept new HEMI/Transmission drive train?
  • Does 1966 C-Body have enough rigidity in the frame to support new HEMI/Transmission drive train / HP torque etc? (I'm thinking 6.1L)
  • Where can I find specifications/dimensions for both 1966 frame and new Chrysler frame?
  • What suspension upgrades will I need to keep stance low but maintain ride quality?
  • What Disc brake packages are out there?
  • ...or should/could I get a wrecked SRT8 300C and take Engine/Trans/Rear end out and drop it in 1966 Chrysler?

I am aware that a project like this can run away quickly with exorbitant costs if I make the wrong decisions and get wrapped into pie in the sky dreams. My ears and attitude are wide open to any responses. So, I look forward to your experience and expert advice.
Click to expand...

Very nice car, welcome.

Newer driveline wont fit with serious body modifications, Big tough old car... if its not rusted...your looks good up top, get the bottom checked out. Neither the 1966 or new Chrysler have a "frame" they are unibody construction. The subframe assemblies will be way different, even if they have similar size serious fabrication.

You may not find much encouragement to cut up this sweet old girl here. But we will love the ride you have. The 383 is a tough engine... if you want more a 440 could bolt in while the 383 rests in the garage waiting for you to return to stock. Also the same for brakes, if the drums are not getting the job done... save the parts and use a bolt on kit if available. In most cases cruiser cars don't need brake upgrades, most of the upgrades around here are due to obsolete parts that cant easily be replaced. there are some looking for next level braking and I'm sure they will help.

Don't pay attention to HP numbers... big cars are moved by torque... way cheaper and way cooler to keep it old school.
 
Welcome to the site. Great car, just like the one I am doing. Follow what the others have said about keeping it original, That is the car I learned to drive on and it is one great car.
 
Welcome fellow 66'er! Having both a 66 and a 2015 300S to drive the 66 always wins. When I look under the hood of the 2015 I'm lost - under the '66 I'm right at home.
 
Welcome aboard.Very nice 300 you got there. I love the interiors of the '66 model.

I'll take a stab at your questions and ad my 2 cents.

Will 1966 C-Body accept new HEMI/Transmission drive train? Not without mods.

Does 1966 C-Body have enough rigidity in the frame to support new HEMI/Transmission drive train / HP torque etc? (I'm thinking 6.1L) Yes, as long as it's not rusty. Where can I find specifications/dimensions for both 1966 frame and new Chrysler frame? Factory service manualscan be found hear. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

What suspension upgrades will I need to keep stance low but maintain ride quality? Don't know.What Disc brake packages are out there? There are a few out there......example https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=64&page=2

...or should/could I get a wrecked SRT8 300C and take Engine/Trans/Rear end out and drop it in 1966 Chrysler? Maybe the motor with the ECU and no to the rest.


If I wanted to make a old car perform and handle like a new car, I would add an aftermarket fuel injection to a modified 440. Rebuild the suspension like mentioned earlier. Add front and rear sway bars and disc brakes.
This is a lot less money than what you are thinking of doing and is easily reversible if needed.
 
You will find most of us here keep thinks pretty stock. My 383 brings a smile to me every time I pop the hood.

~

14558495529_43803b80bf_o.sm.jpg
 
Sweet car, I wouldn't change a thing and welcome to the site from the Motor City!
 
Zymurgy said:
You will find most of us here keep thinks pretty stock. My 383 brings a smile to me every time I pop the hood.

~
Click to expand...

Brings a smile to me everytime you do that as well. Don't look now but your pride is showing - beautiful car man!
 
Being a "Chevy boy" I've partaken in a few drive train swaps similar to what you're talking about and I can answer two of these questions:


  • Where can I find specifications/dimensions for both 1966 frame and new Chrysler frame?
    A couple of tape measures and a pad to write on; and remember the saying: measure twice... write that down and measure two more times.
  • What suspension upgrades will I need to keep stance low but maintain ride quality? Fresh bushing are a must, then get ready to do math. Figure out the difference in weight, then learn how (google) to calculate spring rate for the weight/control arm length and suspension travel desired. Then remember that this is a Mopar and that torsion bars in your new found spring rate are likely going to have to be custom made $$.

Personally I would leave that 66 you have like it is, restore it and drive it with only a few "upgrades". These C-bodies can be hard to find parts for and are nothing like a "popular" Chevy. I have a 65 New Yorker 4-door that's getting a suspension rebuild, sway bars, firmer shocks, maybe electronic ignition, and the radio converted. Other than that I'm restoring her close to original and driving 2-3 days a week right now. I have a couple of 64 Impalas for "resto-modding".

Good luck with your car! She looks like a pretty clean car.
 
Hey ! Welcome to the best forum on the net. You have been given a lot of very good advice here. I hope you heed what has been said about keeping the car close to stock. BTW, a warmed up 440 will actually out-perform a 426 hemi every time.
 
if i remember right,someone on here was doing a late model swap into an early 70's wagon. maybe someone remembers and can post a link.
 
Thanks Commando1, great insights on restoration and the timing is good on your advice. I got $70K quote today from a shop that does resto-mod, which I think I will ignore for now.
 
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