1966 Polara 500 Ragtop

Grill a couple of posts up. If your chrome is in decent shape, the part that is wearing off is a silver argent paint. This guy seems to have most of the recipes for the different Mopar trim and interior paints. Nice guy to talk to. Will put it in a rattle can for you or by the pint. Around $20 if I remember correctly. Silver argent wheel paint may get you close as well.
Website and phone number the same.
I believe he uses PPG paint but puts it in a generic can.
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Tuning a big block like yours is not rocket science. Down load a copy of the FSM at www.mymopar.com the FSM will be found in the "Tools/Reference" section. This has all the spec's you need to properly tune your car. I have been doing my own tune ups since I was 16 and got my first car. The main critical items are setting the point gap and plug gap.

For a good tune up, tools needed:
Screwdriver
Feeler Gauge
Plug Gap Gauge
3/8" Socket set in fractional
Timing light
(Optional, Compression Tester, Dwell Meter)

If you do not feel comfortable doing the work yourself, find and old line shop with some geezer mechanics. Most modern techs are lost trying to work on anything without a computer.

Dave

I actually got the FSM off ebay last week. Sadly, about a year ago I sold off my old 70's era Chiltons hardcover book and all my Mopar manuals. And I sold my 70's vintage Belden wire timing light. I thought I'd ever need that stuff again! Have to see if my old gap gauges are still about. I hate buying "new Chinese tools" branded American
I haven't installed a set of points in about 35 years. Before that it was pretty regular. I miss running a Sun distributor machine too.
So we'll see what happens. I'd like to find a proper set of wires instead of a "one size fits all" set.
 
Congrats on the now running engine.:thumbsup:
Now that the engine is running, I would start with a check of the timing chain play and a compression check before a full tune up.
You need a good base line of compression to make sure you have a good base to tune up off of.
Be prepared to rebuild the carburetor as well as this may be gummed up from sitting.
 
hi D-Dog. can you take pictures of the windows sweeps on your car and post them here?
I'm trying to find a re-popped set.
I need to make sure i get the right set.
I bought a set on Flea-Bay under the impression that the B-Body's kit would work thank to the wrong info on the vehicle fitment guide..
I now have to return that kit and searching for a kit that will work.
 
I'd be happy to, but...

I don't know when I'll see the car again. :(

I may try to run over to the shop this afternoon. Otherwise it'll be next week if you can wait
 
Ok...
It has been a long strange weekend for us.
Friday morning (29th) I went to get the car. It was on the hoist and my mech and his partner were working on the water pump.
One of the idler pulley mount bolts was stuck and they were about to apply heat.
I figured it was best we not stick around.

Came back about 4 pm, bolt was out, water pump, belts and radiator hoses done. New shocks all around with air shocks out back. Fresh oil and filter.
Car still needs:
Strut rod bushings
Lower control arm bushings
Sway bar bushings
Brake drums..brake shoes look new but drums are thin.
The good news...
Floor pan was well undercoated and rust free underneath
Stubs are not rotted.
2.76 open differential.
The not so good news.
Mild collision damage, center front bumper
Slightly mashed oil pan
Big dent in gas tank, on the side
I'm now a bit more positive that the car doesn't have the original paint.
Exhaust.. rotted muffler, rotted and broken tailpipe.
The "bad news"...
I not sure the car has the original engine or transmission
The transmission on the drivers side pan rail is numbered H2538834 and 2565501 Neither number matches the vin.
My Mechanic and I couldn't find any numbers on the engine, at least not on the passenger side block above the pan. He admitted he wasn't familiar with pre '68 engines and those numbers are likely elsewhere.
I can tell you the block casting numbers are 468130-4(pass) and 2458130(drivers)
In a way I'd be happier that it wasn't a numbers matching car. If the car doesn't have the original power train it can be modded a little (or a lot).
And, now, the rest of the story.
Pumped the gas once, and the engine fired off. It had a little shake that went away once she warmed up.
Backed her out of the shop, no backup lights. Lights and turn signals work, dash lights and temp gauge, sketchy. Brake pedal sticks so brake lights stay on. Ammeter guage works
Filled it with a half tank of unleaded premium, locking cap gotta go!
So I drove it across town, rush hour, dark clouds all around. Didn't check the wipers...oh well.
Window down, death grip on skinny steering wheel. No seat belts. Strangely exhilarating.
Front bushings definitely shot, thank goodness for new front shocks.
Strange Howling noise from engine compartment ( more on that in a bit).
So, we made it "home" to it's new storage garage about a quarter mile from our home. Probably drove it farther yesterday than the PO did all last year.
The howling sound, it's that Commiefornia smog valve thingy in the pcv valve line. Sounds like a Stuka dive bomber. Video to follow before I remove it.
And the crappy news...
Went to the garage yesterday. Was planning to pull the car out, wash it, and take photos...car wouldn't start. Something(s) drained the battery. Tested and charged battery it was good. I have a couple of suspicious non factory wires for starters.
Mr. fix it...I had every intent on getting your photos, but I am sorry.
Today's a new day. Sunny but much cooler. When it gets into the 50's this afternoon, I'll test, then install the battery and try again.
Thanks for reading!
 
Pre 68 the vin was only on the body which hopefully matches the title, nowhere on the engine or transmission. If you actually find a vin on either, then it's a transplant from the future.
 
Ok...

Mr. fix it...I had every intent on getting your photos, but I am sorry.
Today's a new day. Sunny but much cooler. When it gets into the 50's this afternoon, I'll test, then install the battery and try again.
Thanks for reading!

No worries. I have a couple of suppliers now after doing research and am waiting on delivery.
Thanks for remembering though:thumbsup:
 
Once you get to the car, can you take some pictures of the actual door seals?
 
Well, things have taken a toll for the worst...
Took my charged battery over and hooked it up...no start!

It's a fuel issue again. No gas in the filter.
Gas comes out of the line from the tank. It dribbles out the output line on the pump, but will not go further. Something doesn't look right though. I changed the filter, nope. Dribbled some gas down the carb, it'll run on that!

Called the mechanic. Yes, I have his #. He tells me he only changed the flexible line from the hard line to the fuel pump, which got the car running. It did...for the last two weeks and all the way from his shop to my storage garage. I should have the pump, but I don't. So he'll find it and call me. Suggests I fill the fuel bowls of the carb through the vent tubes and start it and it could run long enough to prime things.
He also tells me he put 3 filters on it in the two weeks he had it.
This is number 4...
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So I have a plan...change the fuel pump. Put a filter in the fuel hose going into the pump, and maybe one after. I pulled the inlet off the carburetor and the small screen in there was clean.
Anyway, that's where I am. The best way to really fix this is pull the tank and flush it.

Mr fix it, I shot a few photos of the door weather strip and I hope they are useful. I couldn't get my door open very far in the storage place.

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A new gas tank and hardware will be on it's way here shortly.
Meanwhile I'll rig up a pre fuel pump filter and install a new pump.
 
Last evening the UPS person left the tank at my front stoop
Today I unpacked everything, wiped the tank down with wax and grease remover, Scotch Brited it, and coated it with some stainless paint. The new straps will get the same treatment.

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Sadly, there's a little ding in the tank. Not nearly as big as the dent in the original, but it's not perfect. Not sure who to blame but I painted it and will use it.
Things like this are why I sing the blues.

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Ok, now I'm really irritated...

This is how Vans shipped my straps...bent around my tank. I'm guessing this is why they sent an unexplained refund for $30.00.
Has anyone else had this issue with Vans?
Or is this how they ship these things?

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I'd be more than happy to give you $50 for the tank & straps....:lol:
Mine in good operational state but banged up pretty badly.

Just catching up on some older threads here.
Thanks for the photos a while back too:thumbsup:
 
Ok, now I'm really irritated...

This is how Vans shipped my straps...bent around my tank. I'm guessing this is why they sent an unexplained refund for $30.00.
Has anyone else had this issue with Vans?
Or is this how they ship these things?

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I haven't gotten a tank strap in ages, but the ones I got were folded, and I had to straighten them. Not a Mopar but a strap nonetheless.
 
I'd be more than happy to give you $50 for the tank & straps....:lol:
Mine in good operational state but banged up pretty badly.

Just catching up on some older threads here.
Thanks for the photos a while back too:thumbsup:

I bet...Throw in a case of Moosehead and we'll start discussing it! That's a 24 case not a 2 four. :)

Happy to oblige on the photos. Is someone making or going to make these pieces?


I will work on the straps tomorrow. I wish I hadn't gotten rid of some of my metal shaping tools
 
I bet...Throw in a case of Moosehead and we'll start discussing it! That's a 24 case not a 2 four. :)

Happy to oblige on the photos. Is someone making or going to make these pieces?

I will work on the straps tomorrow. I wish I hadn't gotten rid of some of my metal shaping tools

Sounds great! although unfortunately I'm on a no beer diet thanks to acid reflux kicking into high gear earlier this week.

I always referred to a 24 pack as a "2 fer" anyhoo so that would make for some great conversation LOL!:lol:
And I made my straps up from the originals and 1" metal strapping... Not quite as pretty as OEM but very functional at pennies on the dollar...
As you get into the car, you will have to let your creative juices flow for metal work.
 
It's way too cold and wet to paint today, and my friend Arthur Itis prefers to show up on days like this too.

However, I managed to straighten out the tank straps into something acceptable. Pulled the new tank pad out of it's shipping box and set it out to go flat

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