1967 Imperial Torsion Bar Isolators

[bajajoaquin]

I mentioned this in my ongoing Imperial thread, but didn't post up a question, because it's one of the things I've come across that's Imperial only, and not a general C-Body question. But here goes anyway....

It appears that the "Isolator" on the driver's side of my Imperial is bad. With the car on a lift, and resting on its suspension, if you grab the aft end of the driver's side torsion bar, you can wiggle it. You can also hear it rattling as you go down the road, as long as the suspension is unweighted.

Looking at the FSM, the parts involved are the "Isolators."

According to the FSM, this can be removed from the car by unloading the torsion bars and removing/replacing them. They can "only be serviced as a unit." I have not yet gotten a wrench on them to find out if they're simply loose, but I expect they're just old and rotten. I'm saying "them" even though it's only the driver's side. I'm sure the other one will go next.

I've called or emailed several old and obsolete suspension part companies, and so far no joy. I've also put a post on the Imperial group.

Anyone here have any ideas or suggestions?

 

[commando1]

I've looked at as many pictures as I could find and I for the life of me cannot see why one could not fab up a new isolater on their own if the old one is indeed disintegrated.
I don't understand this "as an assembly" BS.
And it doesn't have to be the same material. Machine it out of aluminum and I seriously doubt you'll feel any additional vibration. Just like the stub frame isolators.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

WOW! I'm sorry I just came across your post here when "Tortion bar" and "Isolator" poped right out at me!

I dont know a lot about the CBody suspension setups and I figured it would be set up similar to the other mopar bodies but.... This particular set up is VERY similar to the 73 and up BBody isolated tortion bar ancher cross member.

As I have recently changed out my mangled and rotted tortion bar isolated cross member on my 74 BBody, I can tell you that I had steel bushings made/turned to my specification at a local machine shop to replace the rubber ones just as Commando said

I will dig up the pictures of what I replaced and with what and how similar the set up is to the FSM excerpt posted.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Here is what the tortion bar anchor looks like for a 73-79 BBody, yes its wavy unlike the one in the FSM posted by the OP for his CBody. This one is isolated as well but you can see the mouning location for the rubber isolators on the top ends.


Now I have a picture of how its mounted to the transmission cross member (yes I had to cut the floor out as it was rusted pretty bad), and you'll notice where the tortion bars go through that (please disregard the bare loose anchers I have there, I was investigating wheather or not I could completely eliminate the isolated cross member completely... it turned out I can if I got a shorter torsion bar)



Here are some pics of WHY I had to replace the isolated cross member in the first place. Looks like the previous owner snagged it HARD and bent the $hite out of it! lol


Here are the solid bushings I had made and used




Hope this helps. Sorry I didnt take any after pictures but can take some in the Spring.

 

[bajajoaquin]

I am pretty sure that the isolators on my car are rectangular. I've found a source for rebuilt/rebuilding, but I was hoping to have a part I could swap in without leaving the car on blocks for a couple weeks.

My current thinking is that, if I can get some measurements of the outside, I can cut some aluminum stock to the right size. (This probably isn't the right project for me to make a stand, set up, and learn to use my little milling machine.... after all, this is about moving along at more than glacial speed!) I'm reasonably confident that with the outside dimensions cut and prepped, I could bore/drill the mounting holes quickly.

Of course, if I came across someone who had full drawings, that would be easier. When you said you had done it, I had high hopes, but there might still be someone on the Imperial list who has done something similar and can help.

And I'm still holding out some hope that it could be a simple fix of loose bolts. Not many surprises have broken that way, but the next one could.

 

[Clover]

I don't think that your diagnosis fits your complaint, but I think we need more info. When the torsion bar moves, is the mount moving also? Are you sure it doesn't just have a bad lower control arm bushing? The power steering box leaking kills the left lower control arm bushing. See what is allowing the bar to move. It may need the mount isolator, but I don't see a worn out isolator allowing the bar to move. If the bar is moving in the rear mount, the isolator isn't the problem.

 

[bajajoaquin]

I've moved the bar around and can see it moving at the subframe and isolator. Doesn't mean your question about what caused it isn't relevant. Will check it. (Replying mobile, sorry)

 

[Jhost68]

Where can I get my 68 imperial torsion bar isolater rebuilt

 

[detmatt]

Where can I get my 68 imperial torsion bar isolater rebuilt

I had mine done here.
Nors Vulcanized Motor Mounts & Rubber Products - Then and Now Automotive

 

[Dana]

I would think making solid bushings defeats the purpose. Like telling the original engineers they should have just used the standard Chrysler crossmember! 2 cents

 

[daveydave10]

I know this is a very old post, but it’s similar topic. I removed my isolaters today, and what’s called the “seal” in bajajoaquin’s picture from the FSM, seems to be completely different than what I can find for aftermarket “boots”.

Those that have done this work, (@detmatt) did your seals look like mine or do I have some sort of mutant seal the previous owner created?

 

[detmatt]

I know this is a very old post, but it’s similar topic. I removed my isolaters today, and what’s called the “seal” in bajajoaquin’s picture from the FSM, seems to be completely different than what I can find for aftermarket “boots”.

Those that have done this work, (@detmatt) did your seals look like mine or do I have some sort of mutant seal the previous owner created?

View attachment 500688

View attachment 500689

Honestly I need to have a look on Monday as I haven’t had to deal with those firsthand in some time. I didn’t touch the bars on the Director.

 

[detmatt]

@daveydave10

 

[BLIMP]

I had a similar issue

Suspension banging

 

[daveydave10]

@detmatt thx for the pics! I had thought my seals had silicone over some cracks, but now after seeing more pics, I have that same seal you do, but then there’s another boot on top of it siliconed together.

@BLIMP , did your solid solution work? I talked to Then and Now, they still charge $125 each unit to rebuild, about a month turn around so I may try what you did in the mean time.

 

[Big_John]

@vdk2010 might like to chime in on this thread.

 

[BLIMP]

Yes it worked fine...so good in fact I haven't messed with it since.

 

[vdk2010]

I bought my new boots from Mega Parts.

I initially tried to reuse my old Rubber Mounts, but they were sagging, so I removed all the old rubber, zinc plated the metal pieces and send them to Then and Now for revulcanization.
A second set is at the zinc plating shop right now. I'm planing to make my own poly urethane mounts with them to compare them to the rubber ones.