Cazman
Active Member
got it
1967 Newport Custom Engine/Engine bay/ stub frame rebuild
- Thread starter swisherred
- Start date
carrman
Senior Member
Can you show a pic of your heater box apart, and the flat plate you speak of? I just bought a Spectra core....
swisherred
Senior Member
Hard to see but I had already put the box together when I saw your post. The plate surrounds the back of the heater core making it a square and sealing off the cavity.
swisherred
Senior Member
Earlier this morning....90% back together now.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Did your helper approve of the heater box repair?
swisherred
Senior Member
Totally....she always helps when I don't need it. although I'm still considering removing the box again...I don't like how short the lines are sticking out of the firewall. One is 1.5" the other is 1" at best.
Mines the opposite. She helps when I do need it. But I'm too stubborn to ask until the last second.
I'm glad to see you making progress.
swisherred
Senior Member
So far everything else is going together well except the hood latch...getting that lined up is proving a little difficult, but I will get it eventually.
swisherred
Senior Member
So the hood latch is killing me. It lines up and locks...but won't release without popping it with a screwdriver.....unless its out of the car, then it works fine. Put pressure on it and it won't open. It worked fine before I cleaned it. Smh.
swisherred
Senior Member
Back together. Almost time for fluids once I replace the rear shocks, shackles and the rear u joint.
Cazman
Active Member
You are fast!
swisherred
Senior Member
I wanted to note that the heater motor vent tube at Detroit muscle technologyfor B bodies fits the non ac c body box in case you break it.
swisherred
Senior Member
So today I filled the fluids and fired her up. It didn't want to run right at first, but tweaked the timing and finally got the bowls full of fuel and she leveled out reasonably well. I do have to go back over the timing and set it better. I also have a pretty severe exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side now. I'm assuming its warped. Its leaking between 4 and 6 pretty good. Im going to get gaskets for it for now until I decide what I'm doing with the exhaust. The lights work, the wipers, horns, gauges, etc...and the heat now works great. On that note..I did completely tear down the wiper motor to clean it and fix the wiring....it works very smoothly now and clearly has all three speeds.
I'm having trouble telling if I have enough tranny fluid in it...seems like it, but its running up the side of the dipstick some so I can't get a real good read on it. I have it on jack stands at the moment so I could roll it through the gears and make sure fluid went through all the pathways. Checking it in neutral. I will get that sorted out.
The power steering didn't want to work right until I had rolled it back and forth lock to lock several times. It got better each time but could probably use a few more rolls. I used Rotella 10w30 diesel oil to get the 1200ppm of zddp and stuck with dexron/mercon for the tranny fluid. I didnt feel the need to get tighter shifts using type F. Besides, I keep reading that its good, but doesnt last and it harder on the second gear clutch.
I have to bleed the entire brake system next before I can do much else.
I'm having trouble telling if I have enough tranny fluid in it...seems like it, but its running up the side of the dipstick some so I can't get a real good read on it. I have it on jack stands at the moment so I could roll it through the gears and make sure fluid went through all the pathways. Checking it in neutral. I will get that sorted out.
The power steering didn't want to work right until I had rolled it back and forth lock to lock several times. It got better each time but could probably use a few more rolls. I used Rotella 10w30 diesel oil to get the 1200ppm of zddp and stuck with dexron/mercon for the tranny fluid. I didnt feel the need to get tighter shifts using type F. Besides, I keep reading that its good, but doesnt last and it harder on the second gear clutch.
I have to bleed the entire brake system next before I can do much else.
Terrific progress. You are a fast movin' wild man! To properly check yer trans fluid, you need to get the car down on the ground and check the fluid level hot with the transmission in 'Drive'.
Very impressed with your project.
swisherred
Senior Member
Thank you for the words....question on the gear though...I was thinking the 727 was checked in neutral...am I confusing it with something else?
GJS
Senior Member
I'm pretty sure it is warm (full operating temp), engine running, in neutral. Bet my beer on it.
We beat this issue around recently, and I think I remember the selector is supposed to be in 'Drive', but I guess your FSM will tell us for sure. Stan? (@commando1 ) Do you remember?
GJS
Senior Member
Ah, I looked around a bit and believe this is the thread you are referencing:
Measuring the transmission fluid level (727)
I'd never in my life heard of checking it in drive but who the hell am I?
I'll consider that a free beer for anyone who likes the "in drive" method.
swisherred
Senior Member
Btw....just how much fluid goes in a bone dry Tranny with a quart added to the TC? I have put in 2 gallons already. New lines and drained radiator.
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